Search results for query: *

Just did a rebuild on my 1906 Winchester pump .22. It has mismatched upper and lower receiver parts so it's never been quite right, plus a headspace issue. Fixed lots of little problems such as the breech block not locking into place and corrected most of the feeding problems.

Those screws are a bit on the soft side, there's no need to king kong them when reassembling a revolver.

I noticed that as well, it must have a bushing or was bored with a smaller hole.

It's worth trying with an oversized nipple. One of my Walkers had a habit of blowing nipples out of the cylinder. I tapped and threaded it for 1/4 28 nipples and haven't had a problem since.

Save yourself some trouble and ditch the cigarette papers. Curling papers are much tougher and more water resistant. And way less expensive.

That's an interesting fix, my fix is much easier to do. Thanks dickydalton.

Hey Miguel Loco, will be in your area and drop off more cards at the smoke shop possibly Saturday.

Try hair curling iron papers, they burn completely, are tough and basically waterproof. Plus you get 1000 of them for a couple of dollars. Depending on the glue you use for the end cap a small ring can be left behind in the bottom of the chamber. They don't cause any problems.

How have I explained my own chainfire? By not shaving lead? By not lubing the chambers?

Tough part is keeping the lines straight. If you keep your elbows tucked into your body and somewhat rigid it helps. Take breaks, after a while straight lines start looking wavy.

If you like chainfires keep loading without lube at the cylinder mouths. If you like cylinder jams keep loading with chambers that shave lead. That lead ring can cause lots of aggravation by getting caught between the barrel and cylinder. None of my revolvers cut lead off a ball. My chambers are...

It's interesting about cappers being useless on a Remmy. I have a brass frame ASM that a capper works on and a Pietta that it won't. That is until recently. I opened up the wells the nipples sit in with an end mill and now you can use a capper. Both an inline and snail type capper will fit it.

Bad part is it's not a particularly easy fix. Your comment about the sight not being clocked right is kinda a give away about the assembly on this one. The fix is to pull the barrel and set it back and then adjust the B/C gap. Uberti really should address this one.

Most of my supply of caps are CCI 11, if I have nipples that don't like them I turn them down until the caps fit without forcing them on but still tight enough to not fall off.

There are some mods that help cut down the fouling on the cylinder pin.

I would start with 55 grains and work up from there. All of my 50 s shoot most accurately with 65 to 75 grains.

Wow, they are still expensive. Most everything I run across uses #11 caps. They are pretty much unobtainable here.

I am considering offering opening up the nipple wells as part of the tuning/ repair service. What do you guys think?

While we're talking about Remmies does anyone have problems using cappers on their guns?

CVA was the importer. Lots of the long guns were made in Spain. The CVA branded revolvers I have are Italian Armi San Marcos.