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Hey Miguel Loco, will be in your area and drop off more cards at the smoke shop possibly Saturday.

Try hair curling iron papers, they burn completely, are tough and basically waterproof. Plus you get 1000 of them for a couple of dollars. Depending on the glue you use for the end cap a small ring can be left behind in the bottom of the chamber. They don't cause any problems.

How have I explained my own chainfire? By not shaving lead? By not lubing the chambers?

Tough part is keeping the lines straight. If you keep your elbows tucked into your body and somewhat rigid it helps. Take breaks, after a while straight lines start looking wavy.

If you like chainfires keep loading without lube at the cylinder mouths. If you like cylinder jams keep loading with chambers that shave lead. That lead ring can cause lots of aggravation by getting caught between the barrel and cylinder. None of my revolvers cut lead off a ball. My chambers are...

It's interesting about cappers being useless on a Remmy. I have a brass frame ASM that a capper works on and a Pietta that it won't. That is until recently. I opened up the wells the nipples sit in with an end mill and now you can use a capper. Both an inline and snail type capper will fit it.

Bad part is it's not a particularly easy fix. Your comment about the sight not being clocked right is kinda a give away about the assembly on this one. The fix is to pull the barrel and set it back and then adjust the B/C gap. Uberti really should address this one.

Most of my supply of caps are CCI 11, if I have nipples that don't like them I turn them down until the caps fit without forcing them on but still tight enough to not fall off.

There are some mods that help cut down the fouling on the cylinder pin.

I would start with 55 grains and work up from there. All of my 50 s shoot most accurately with 65 to 75 grains.

Wow, they are still expensive. Most everything I run across uses #11 caps. They are pretty much unobtainable here.

I am considering offering opening up the nipple wells as part of the tuning/ repair service. What do you guys think?

While we're talking about Remmies does anyone have problems using cappers on their guns?

CVA was the importer. Lots of the long guns were made in Spain. The CVA branded revolvers I have are Italian Armi San Marcos.

I think Jukar and Dikar were not the stuff CVA was importing. Those were definitely low budget pieces. Locks are similar but not quite the same. CVA did turn out some good quality stuff. Both of my long guns are good quality.

Hey Ugly, did you ever shoot that kit gun we traded for? Took it out and tried to shoot it, chamber sizes were all over the place. Some were good others very tight. Got out the .453 reamer and evened them out. Requires a 457 ball now but at least a guy can load it. It's also got an adjustable...

Breath through your nose Ugly!

I have 2 CVA long guns, a double rifle and a sxs 12 gauge. Both are good shooters. I also have 2 CVA branded Walkers, they are ASM manufactured and had all the issues that go along with ASM and Uberti. Fixed all the problems and both are excellent reliable shooters. I don't look down on CVA...

I make my lube from tallow, beeswax and candle wax, it's rolled into little pills and stored in a plastic container. Check out Ugly Sauce posts on lube pills. Using patches in a revolver can be be done but you need to get the right size ball or conicals that press fit into the chambers. A few...

Just out of curiosity has the arbor been corrected on the Walker?