Search results for query: *

If you want to get rid of them, a trap that is sending you photos or videos of what is in there, that you can trigger remotely works better than anything else I have tried. I use a trunk latch solenoid because it already has great lock work and they are cheap. Then run a cable from the "drive"...

Smaller minor OD in extractor groove and yes just like spl in mags. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-ZrSfHrfd0

Don't know but I bet the ones I have will be around after I am gone...

Try 45 GAP brass, SPP require less force for 100% ignition and no tools needed to moon/demoon.

The quote was "OUTSIDE" not "IN", the barrel keeps them together until it exits, then centrifugal force tears it apart, once it is no longer constrained by the bore. If you have paper close enough you can see it, as a "spray". These are plated but around 280,000-300,000 rpm, I have seen it...

"Improper cleaning" covers a lot of ground. There are some chemicals that by themselves can ruin a barrel, even if you are not scraping or banging things into them. If you want to see just how many ways something can be done wrong, you should just pass some out to people that don't know the...

1. I have 1 mold I used as a "standard", weight can be changed with the alloy. Pure lead will drop 240 grains, something real hard like silver solder drops 210 grains. Wheel weights drop 232 gn, cut in harder or softer alloys until you get the weight you are looking for. 2. I built a machine...

It didn't like getting shot at? Sounds like wood ducks. I have seen them year after year on some ponds. Also have seen them ran off for more than two decades once hunted, on one of them...

I think adjustable height rings are great for finding the height I want. I don't know how I would do it before I had the rifle, I play with them all a little (new scope or rifle) a bit before I find the sweet spot, for me and other shooters might find another placement ideal for them.

The loads I listed run in everything I have tried them in except the MP5 SD. Their barrels are ported (to make supers sub) and bleed off too much pressure.

Even if I make the noise, my fingers won't shoot bullets...

Also always a good idea to design things so they have a front and back. Where, because of the centerline spacing off the fasteners, they cannot be put on backwards.

I'd probably let them pick after they shoot them.

Settles into a push full auto. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKuWVqxt_ws

You could turn money into noise with them. If you buy a 300 blk, you could make even less noise with them...probably what they were intended for. If they are not gas checked, you are probably pushing them too hard in a 30-06. Whats your load data?

What is the diameter? That looks like a job for the right sized set collar to me. Clamp it on the part you don't want malled then proceed to mess up it's OD, instead of your gun part.

This is a 650, 5 station press. Station 1. case feed, size/deprime Station 2. prime, powder charge/flare. Station 3. power check Station 4 bullet feed and seat to depth. Station 5 crimp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3hVi6PuduM

3.1 gn of N310 with a plated 147 @ 1.160 3.2 gn of N320... 3.2 gn of titegroup.. In that order are the ones I use most.

Kind of looks like it.

You know, I can still get a case of beer for under $20, despite everything it takes to make and ship it, does cost more....