Applying heat is a common thing to do when removing barrels. If that doesn't work, you may need to relieve the barrel at the shoulder to break it loose.
Bedding can be done forends. If that is a DIY is up to you. A little bit of bedding compound at the barrel to push the forend down. Some under the band if the wood has shrunk. Some by the receiver to keep it tight.
Don't forget release agent or it will be very permanent.
As you found out, coatings are superior for protection of the metal. Blueing looks classier on some guns. Pick your poison.
If you have time, oil them up. Don't worry to much about it though. Rust needs moisture, so unless you have high humidity the rust wont grow much. Get them to a refinisher...
What Mizar said. Heat till just starting to smoke. The epoxy may lose its grip sooner than the softening temperature.
If it gets too hot it can be reblued.
I do warranty for Marlin and have had this situation a few times. I end up drilling the ejector out with a carbide drill in a mill. The spring is probably also toast.
Use a plastic mallet and hit the receiver. The pin will work itself out. I also have used a small magnet to pull it the rest of the way out. Press the stop with your finger to relieve the tension on the pin.
Milling a key way would be ideal. You could also soft solder the front base on, but you wouldn't be able to remove the front band. Or drill and tap the front base for a set screw or two.
I think you have it figured out. You remove wood to go down, not side ways.
Picture an outline of the action and barrel from above. Only remove wood within the out line.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/MarlinGlenfield-33379/Rifles-37333/925M-39077.htm?page=1
Numrich has those parts. Just a different part number it looks like.
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