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I agree. Always crimp in the crimping ring. It won't be a problem as long as the round is not too long for the piece it will be fired in. When playing with loads near max pressures, the seating depth becomes a definite concern, but other than that follow the old rule, "Start Low and Work Up."

Yes, when seating and crimping in the same operation, if the end of the casing hits the end of the crimp ring and then travels a bit more, it will expand the brass and loosen the bullet. So always adjust the end of the brass to be in the crimp ring, but not hitting the end of the crimp ring...

orpington: "My dies are .44 Special, but there is no expansion die." What brand of dies? Straight walled pistol dies are usually furnished with a 3 die set. The decapping die is also the inside expander and belling tool. Set it up so that it just gives you enough bell to start the...

smovlov said, "Start at the minimum charge for a 250gr lead bullet, seat and crimp at the crimp groove. Do your load work up from the start charge and everything should be fine." This is the correct answer. Have fun! (C'mon you guys, stop confusing the issue.) .

My local sporting goods store people told me that their stocking was done at night, so if you want something, be there when the door opens. The stuff does not sit on the shelf for long.

I am with the gang that suggested the Lyman 55. It is the only measure I have had, but I load for a good variety of both pistol and rifle. It does well on any powder I have ever put into it. With 3 different slides, you can adjust for a good cut with any powder. It has a large capacity too...

I never do.

"I never have the exact bullet specified in a load listing. I always try to find a load that is as close as possible, as far as weight, jacket type, etc., and work from that, but almost always, the bullet dimensions are different." I can only tell you what has worked for me. First let me tell...

3/4 ply is plenty for the top, but you may want to put a little reinforcement under the press location. I used a piece of 2x6 under my press with a 3/4 top. Plenty sturdy. The skirts are 5/8 inch ply.

Just one single stage.

You have to consider that the printed velocities in load tables are what the developers found in their test piece. Many times they don't tell us what that test piece was. Yes, it is to be expected that we will get different velocities on our own guns. The printed data gives us a point to...

Oh,OH, welcome to the addiction.

Ya. They are not backed out enough to cause any problem I am aware of.

Liking the RCBS hand priming tool. (not the Universal)

Does the rifle completely support the brass when in firing position? Or is there a bit of the base not supported? If the base is not completely supported it just blew out. A combo of rifle design, high pressure and weak brass.

The two previous posters covered the two reasons you may have primers backing out. I have seen this in a couple of old rifles that had excessive head space. Your load seems to be high enough, I would size for minimum head space as witchhunter suggests.

#1 You say they they look dirty, greasy? Just wipe them off with a cotton rag. As long as they are not greasy, they will be fine. Bright, shiny, purty brass is eye pleasing, but the gun won't care.... it doesn't have eyes. Those pulled bullets go in the lead pot. You don't cast...

I would try it in the rifle and see if it chambers Ok. If so I would neck size it and inside neck expand just to make sure the bullet tension will be constant then load it.

Yes, just load them.

fguffey: What he said! Crimping does not cause this. When this happens one has to ask if there was enough bell on the case mouth to accept the bullet. Put enough bell on them so the bullet will start in and stand up straight while entering the seating die. If they tilt and go in crooked...