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They got a response from Lee here, but suffice to say, they haven't gotten any ETA on a coming to market date. www.gunandgame.com%2Fforums%2Fhandloading-reloading%2F116944-holy-crap-new-lee-products-2.html

Do you remember the color? Redding makes a measures with a mics on them.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/accessory_manual_may_2007.pdf Page 5 and 6.

Wow, that's pretty smoking. My Blue Dot pistol test-loads stopped at 8.1gr w/ a 115gr bullet. Though Alliant lists a maximum of 8.6gr for a jacketed 115gr bullet. I did stop at 7.7 gr though, as I was loading for flash, and not speed/power.

I don't intentionally stash anything. I reload until one of my supplies is depleted. Usually, it's brass.

I haven't reloaded in a few months. Of course, I haven't shot more than 200 rounds in the past few months either. So my ammo reserves are in pretty good shape.

When I neck-size only, no. No lube. And full-length, I spray-lube the cases in a bag and shake. Some likely gets inside the neck at some point. I don't bother with mica.

Neck-sizing doesn't take much force at all. It was stated that this was military brass. Once-fired? Because I haven't seen any discussion about whether or not the primer-pocket is crimped. And if so, that would be another cause of extremely hard resizing. I use a universal decapping die on...

Powder Valley. They were running a special on CCI, but that might have ended after the holidays.

Just what I need. An app that delivers fear right to my phone! I'll pass.

Yeah, $11 a box is okay for loaded ammo, but more than the ~$7 a box I load plated rounds for. If I shot cast, I could go cheaper.

Detonating outside of a chamber and barrel, the case flies farther than the slug. Inertia at work. There's absolutely minuscule risk, even if the round popped. If you could somehow cause a chain-reaction in a tumbler, you might have a problem. Watch this...

On the plus side, when I work through a pack of Federal's, the empty tray make's a good drink coaster. The primer indentations do a good job of collecting the condensation that drips down.

If you conceivably got some down oil into the primer-cup, then yes, you'd have a risk of killing the primer. My Challenger doesn't have this problem often enough to warrant lubing that area. If it hangs, I just tap it loose. What I would probably be comfortable doing is just applying a very...

I'm glad my guns aren't so delicate that a little but of condensation doesn't turn them into piles of ferric-oxide.

.338 LM is excellent, but .50 bmg trumps it in the ballsiness and macho category.

Check out ar15.com's reloading for-sale section. That'll help you establish true-market market price. Shiny-brass will absolutely help it sell. Some people will want processed brass, others will want unprocessed. But at the very minimum, I would tumble everything for presentation.

I always made my own spreadsheets in google docs. Doing a little math and plugging in formulas isn't hard.

With enough experience and good sense, I'm sure a lot of non-standard powder charges are possible. But I don't have the time, patience, guts, or extra-guns to risk by deviating beyond published data. I'm just as happy not reinventing the wheel.

It's definitely going to be easier with a magnum pistol with a sloooow powder. That said, I did pretty significant amounts of research myself to build a flashy 9mm load. Best I know of for an auto-pistol is 9x25 dillon and blue dot: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U3Gyek7oZ4 Then 10mm loaded...