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OK, that title is a little melodramatic and a little absurd, but it struck me the other day that I probably have more rounds of .22lr than all of my centerfire rounds put together, so push comes to shove, why not have a compact semi-auto pistol that could utilize those rimfires if necessary...

Bought a very minty blued W. German Interarms Walther PPK/s today. Have to wait a couple of days to pick it up so no photos yet. Over the years, I’ve peripherally heard negative things about the Interarms-imported PP-series pistols but didn’t own one so I never paid much attention to the...

I recently acquired a Safety Hammerless (Fifth Model, I believe) that seems to be in good shape except for one, totally disabling, issue. Pulling the trigger doesn’t move the firing pin. I don’t believe it’s the hammer as, once the retaining pin is removed, a hammer strike pops the whole...

I’m going to describe what I think is happening and would be grateful for any input. I may be barking up the wrong tree entirely. When shooting my S&W 1917 revolver, a couple times per cylinder-full the gun will bind up. I can’t thumb back the hammer or move the cylinder with the trigger. If I...

So, consistent with my history of selling a gun, regretting it for 10 or 15 years, and buying the same model again when opportunity knocks, I picked up a 1918-produced S&W 1917 revolver. It’s getting a bit of bluing love right now, so no photos at this time. I’m curious about something, though...

So probably not terribly technical but I don’t want to make anything unsightly. Does anyone have any tips on removing the mold lines from polymer frames without discoloring or abrasion marks. Any tips on the best grits and techniques would be appreciated!

Bear with me while I unspool this flash of Yankee (OK, Pacific Northwest) ingenuity. I’m an invertarate pocket pistol carrier. Right front pocket always reserved for the gun. I’ve been doing it almost every day for the last 30 years. If I don’t have a pistol on me it’s because I’m at work, not...

All my guns are shooters and (since I don’t own anything historically significant) I’m not shy about refinishing anything to improve it’s appearance. Non-wood grips are a problem, though. Reproduction grips for handguns made mid-century or earlier can be a crapshoot fit-wise, especially for...

I’ve owned three Webley Mk. IV’s in the past. A decentish War Finish, an excellent Singapore Police, and a very nice postwar example that I couldn’t love because of a non-functioning cylinder stop that I couldn’t fix. I didn’t pay more than $150 for any of them. For some reason, I didn’t hang on...

So has Yankee ingenuity yet come up with a reliable aftermarket workaround for rigging some kind of rifle/ghost ring sight on a plain-barrel-bead-sight shotgun? Something that doesn't require a gunsmith or the skill of a machinist?

I'm probably going to express this poorly. In this instance I'm talking about a barreled action and it's wood stock but this must have a million possible applications. What easily removeable medium can I apply to a metal surface that will leave a well-delineated mark, on the wood, of where it...

After unknown years of absorbing who-knows-what, one of my 1912 SMLE's recoil blocks disintegrated under recoil, splitting the forestock fore and aft of the magazine well/trigger guard. Someday, I'll work on fixing the damage to the the original but, for now, I'm fitting a newly manufactured...

Doing a forestock restoration on my BSA No.1 Mk. III and there’s one small part I can’t find for sale, or even mentioned, anywhere I’ve searched. That’s the very slender brass screw that’s about a quarter inch forward of the butt of the forestock on every No. 1 Mk. III that I’ve seen. Does...

For almost 30 years I’ve been pocket-carrying small DAO .32 and .380 pistols. While difficult to shoot well, I’ve always considered the long trigger pulls an essential part of safely carrying in this mode with a loaded chamber. Recently I happened upon a FI Industries Model D .380. While I...

So this one has me baffled. My 1895 Nagant revolver functions flawlessly in double action. However, when thumb-cocking the hammer the cylinder, moves forward and up, binding the rear belted part of the cylinder against the rear underside of the top strap about 25% of the time. Any ideas about...

So I have an old Iver Johnson Safety Hammerless that light strikes about once per cylinder though the round almost invariably goes off the second time around. I haven't determined yet if it's always happening on the same chamber though I don't understand how that might make a difference. Any...

Well, at the range today I finally had to accept that I simply can't see a black front sIght clearly against a black target. Clear as a bell with reading glasses but then, of course the target is a blur. I know this issue has been discussed here before with some members strongly recommending...

I’d really like to buy one of these (and I want one with a thumb safety) but I can’t find any definite information as to whether or not S&W has successfully addressed the problem of the thumb safety engaging under recoil. Any input would be appreciated.

Hi, This may be well-trodden ground here but I'm hoping some of the experienced members can give me some insights. I recently lucked into a deal on a beautiful CZ 527 carbine in 7.62x39. Unfortunately, the previous owner had removed the rear sight, apparently thinking that it would...

So for a year now, I've been searching for an original 7.62x38 cylinder for a M1895 Nagant revolver. Nothing terribly esoteric as tens of thousands of these have been imported in the last 20 years. I understand there's a demand for the 32 ACP cylinders but you'd think the Internet and the gun...