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I would recommend the Lee ram swage kit over the RCBS die kit. I have both and much prefer the Lee. No experience with bench mounted solutions.

Thanks for sharing your work! One quick suggestion. I was playing with the alloy calculator. It appears to only allow weight value entries in increments of 0.5 lbs. The number of bullets is calculated based on actual weights entered, but the alloy content only updates in increments of 0.5 lbs...

Copy and pasting an old post a while back...i had issues of cases popping out of the shell holder when priming using a lee bench prime.... Check your shell holder. I got a very sloppy #4 shell holder from Lee for their bench primer. In the picture, both of the brass cases are pushed to the...

I have experienced what you described. That usually happens when I used too much case lube and not enough dish detergent in the wash. Try upping your detergent amount.

I agree with @edwardware. I have seen this type of marks on brass on both pistol and rifle. It's not cause head separation. Just from brass sizing. I don't think it's even possible to stretch 9mm brass to get the body the separate unless the load is excessively hot.

If the base is rubbing after seating operation, the only thing that I can think of that may cause that is really bad concentricity. I highly doubt the seater die is causing the base to bulge.

Thanks for sharing! But be careful using the piezo speaker directly. The voltage from the speaker is proportional to pressure, and it can spike pretty high if the pressure is high enough (like placing it right next to the muzzle). The high voltage may damage the labradar. Cheapest is still to...

Try the magic marker tick to see where the brass is rubbing in the case gauge. I'm not familiar with the rcbs match seater, but if it is like the redding one, there is a section that is spring loaded that reacts against the case body. I would recommend disassembling it to check for broken...

1/4 inch out of the case gage is huge! Check your cases that don't fit in the gauge for signs of shoulder buckling. You may be annealing too much and the brass have become too soft, which could lead to shoulder bucking when seating a bullet.

I'm with you on subscription based apps. Not my cup of tea. That said, I do recommend purchasing a lifetime MS Office pro license. The 2021 version is down to $35. With that purchase you get 5gb of cloud storage. I've started using it to auto backup my spreadsheet. I still backup to a flash...

Yeah, make sure it is switched to rifle mode. As for aiming, I taped a hollow lollipop stick into the aiming groove. That in combination mounting the unit on a ball head, makes aiming easy.

While I know how to implement state machines (my auto trickler is controlled using a simple state machine), I dont think I want to tackle a FSM for steppers :uhoh: I was using a 4988 driver. Very easy implementation using an ardurino as there are plenty of example codes. I appreciate your...

The initial rig (the one that rotated the trickler tube to dispense) I was using a stepper motor. The vibrating one is using a small DC vibration motor as per the instructions for the Open Trickler. I know enough about microcontrollers and electronics just to be dangerous...never had a chance...

Here is a picture of the setup to get the sensors over the beam. I 3D printed the arm and the base. The base was printed with 5% fill (I think), so it left large cavities. You can see that I drilled into the cavities from the top and filled it with #7 shot to give it some stability. I used...

Thanks for sharing the interesting test and results! My takeaway is that the test affirms glowing brass during annealing is overdoing it. Over annealed brass tends to loose the ability to spring back, and thus end up with low neck tension.

I don't think it's possible to "close" the string without starting a new one. And if you did start a new series, the 5 shots should have been recorded to the old series and the rest of the data should be in a new series. What it sounds like perhaps is that the labradar "thinks" it was writing...

It's a bit hard to see. Here is a picture with the components pointed out. All the capacitors and resistors are on the other side of the proto board.

I posted a couple of pictures of the finished trigger in post 42. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/labradar-recoil-trigger-diy.872618/page-2#post-12161630

Certainly not as simple as @jmorris method, but here is the electrical schematic if anyone is interested. The transistors are 2N2222, but other equivalent NPN transistors should work. I'm powering it with a 5v 0.4 amp DC power supply

Thanks @10 Ring Tao for bring this thread back to the surface! I thought I posted this...but apparently I didn't. Here is the schematic of my final version of the labradar trigger with both recoil and sound capabilities. One caution if you are attempting this...make sure you use a CMOS based...