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Nah, that's not strange. It's case head separation. Not a complete one of course. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your best bet is to either A) email Hodgdon or B) take it as a sign that there is no data (because it's not good or possibly dangerous in the .308 Win.) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a matter of looking around. I see it often on Facebook groups for 1.5 to 2.5 cents all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where you buy your 9mm from? It's about $15/50 around here for WWB. It's $10/50 for the really cheap stuff, which works out to $20/100. You can easily load 9mm for $10/100. I load it even cheaper than that with my cast boolits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep it. I've gone spells where I got busy with daughters, and didn't touch my stuff for 4-5 months. Sometimes life gets in the way. Got back to the point where I do a little something every day just to keep stuff going and stay involved. You don't have to load completed rounds every day...

Oh yeah. I'd say so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know I run Titegroup in my Hornady progressive. When I first started using my progressive, I weighed every drop using my Hornady Auto Charge and for 100 rounds, every throw was exactly the same. I haven't tried Unique or something of large flake in it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Prescription shooting glasses. That's what I wear. I wear Oakleys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Best thing to do is chronograph a factory round, then look for powders that will give you the same results Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Odd, I use a Lee die in my match ammo process. Does really well for its intended purpose. Gives very little runout and great accuracy at 600/1000yd (don't load much pistol ammo.) My point is, some Lee stuff is underrated IMHO. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Odd. I've never had any issues with several I have. I use them a bunch too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love Titegroup, use it often with my pistol loads, and have tried in .223 (subsonic loads), but I've never had any of the symptoms that you described from using TG. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Case: Win Powder: 2000-MR Primer: CCI BR2 Bullet: Hornday 178gr BTHP Match OAL: 3.000" I'm not going to give powder charge on here. This was for my 26" Rem 700 1:12 twist. Avg MV was 2750fps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If primers get wet with water, simply allow them to dry. They'll fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I live in a fairly hot and humid state, I wouldn't ever think about storing them outside whether they were sealed like OP has them or not. Temps go from 20's to 100+ (HI of 110+). I just store them inside. Just like I do my powder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I generally store mine in a closet top shelf inside. Stays 70 year around. Had thought about he food saver idea, but really didn't want to spend the money on the bags. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I absolutely love it. Been a member now for 2 or 3 years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WCC brass? Military brass I've used WCC brass and Win brass. Ones NATO ones not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As Fatelvis, a body die will help you out and use your chamber to figure out when they'll fit. I know it doesn't need to be said but I will, just make sure to keep your finger off the bang switch. Like Fatelvis, I get my most accurate rounds using a body die and Lee collet neck die. That's...

If I could standardize, I'd probably break it down into categories. Slow pistol, fast pistol, slow rifle, fast rifle. Fast Pistol: either Bullseye or Unique (as compared to 296) Slow Pistol: Win 296/H110 Fast rifle: H4895 or IMR 4895 Slow(er) rifle: IMR 4350 or H 4350 You can reload ALMOST...