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In my 60+ years of reloading I have tried most of the lubes, both commercial and home made. IMO, there is nothing better than the waxes. Hornady and Imperial both work very well and are very economical. When sizing with a carbide die, I dab my finger tip in the wax tin every four or five rounds...

Fitz and Brasso were both mentioned in responses. These polishes should be avoided on cartridge brass because they contain ammonia which can cause the brass to become brittle.

For stripped Allens I normally use method 3, but only with a drill press or mill. Be sure to verify the screw size and use the proper drill bit to remove the head without damaging the mount. (#31 for 6-48 screws). Don‘t use method 1, Dremel slot, before drilling. The chances of staying...

I’m surprised no one has mentioned it, the Lee case trimmer is the cheapest out there, especially for one caliber. Total investment, $12.00. It’s not adjustable and the brass must be deprimed but the price is right and it works.

CZ 457 is probably the best value out there. Not cheap but a very smooth accurate rifle for the money.

What’s going to happen when you get the flash hider off? Will you instantly have an illegal SBR? Most pinned flash hiders are extending short barrels. I will agree with the comments on using Oxy-Acetylene. Need to heat up fast to minimize heat damage, probably should use heat block paste also.

The OP asked specifically about a 10-22. The answer of .005” less than the bolt recess is correct, don’t need all the other rabbit trails.

CDNN has a good selection of moderately prices handguards similar to the one pictured.

Hate to argue with the factory, but 180 grit lapping compound (not lashing, autocorrect got you I’ll bet) is very aggressive. I have polished numerous chambers with emery cloth on a mandrel but never coarser than 400 grit. For 22 chambers, I use an 800 grit Flexhone.

The date code is not incorporated in the s/n. The code is small numbers stamped near the proof mark on the barrel shank. They can be mistaken for inspection marks.

I received mine from Brownells Thursday, ordered it before they sent out the notice saying they had them. I won’t share the price except to say it was less than anyone else with dealer discount and Edge shipping.

Remington uses a date code stamped on the barrel shank, rather haphazardly, one letter for month, another for year. List of dates is available many places on the internet. I feel sure the 770 uses these same codes.

Economy was the initial reason I started loading when I was 14 (1962). My dad and I both shot 16 ga shotguns and even then good 16 ga loads were hard to find, especially in rural west Texas. Started with a MEC 400 I think. I know it wasn’t a 600. Ordered it from the original Gander Mountain...

My vote is with the Magna tip screwdriver in a drill press. I’ve been a gunsmith for 50 years and have not had this method fail many times. My last experience was on a 92 that I call my “road kill” rifle. It was found beside the road having been run over and left to rust. After soaking in Kroil...

I had a 45 cal Ruger Blackhawk come in with a similar to what entropy describes. The difference is my customer’s barrel was full of jacketed bullets. I do t think there is a dead blow hammer that would open that cylinder. I was able to use my jewelers saw to slice the bullet that was bridging...

I am with Weekendreloader on using pliers to pull bullets except I use wire stripper pliers instead of wire cutters. This leaves four small pits on the bullet which does not harm accuracy much if at all.

Not 308 but in my teens the only rifle I had was a sporterized 1917 30-06. For long range jackrabbits, Speer 110 gr hollow points over a charge of IMR 4320 was potent medicine. Sorry I don’t remember the charge weight, been 60 years!

If you can find it, look up an article about Rocky Gibbs experiments with “forward ignition“. He soldered a tube over the flash hole to carry the primer flame to the top of the powder charge. As well as I remember, he did show an accuracy improvement but it was next to impossible to reload the...

In my 60 years of reloading I have used just about all of the case lubes, both commercial and home made. I have never found anything that works better than wax, either Hornady or Imperial. They are definitely different products but both work well.