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I've never had a problem with their CS over the years (almost 10 now for me). Even when it was for a part that was technically an upgrade as it was being made available with newer presses. What I found helped the most was having the part number when I called them. It seems like the CS rep is...

Wiley-X Sabers w/an RX insert. Let's me have different RX'd for different needs as well as being able to change out to clear or tint as needed. Also, they come with regular ear tips as well as an elastic band which means a better seal and less pinching under the ear muffs.

Great revolver - I have a similar one under the Cimmarron name. Re keeping the cylinder under the hammer empty - always for carry/holstering otherwise if you're just at a range and keep the muzzle pointed downrange you should be fine. To see how it works, with an EMPTY revolver, hold the it...

Big +1 on both of these - have shot many thousands of each. FWIW - I think that the Acme coating is a little more consistent but it didn't affect accuracy. For either there are usually deals you can find when you're ready to buy in quantity - just do a search when you're ready to buy.

Is your 3rd die a seat & crimp and does it properly remove the crimp?

True Blue, Silhouette, Zip, Power Pistol, Bullseye, AA#5, N320 - heck I've even loaded with Blue Dot and been OK. My favs though are True Blue & Zip for clean, low power loads and PP for flash & bang.

Yup - that's the flaw with the DE, you can't clean the gas system.

The Beatles: Rocky Racoon; Happiness is a Warm Gun

While I would love to be able to switch to coated in mine, I too feel that the replacement barrel cost is just not worth it.

Don't know about the 750 but I like the pyrex hoppers so much more than the plastic. They don't discolor, don't breakdown over time, don't spill, etc. I bought mine from https://dramworx.com/ - not cheap but they work for me.

+on double checking the dipper for the weight. I run about the same load through an SAA (not Ruger) with about the same barrel length without a problem. Trailboss is a very fluffy load and it would be very easy to lose some flakes (actually more of a donut shape) if you're not real careful.

In 45 Colt you should be doing a roll crimp into the bullets crimp groove so I don't see why it would matter in the case.

I've got a Cimarron version (Cattleman II) in 45 Colt w/the floating firing pin. Have put nearly 1k rounds through it since I got it (about a year) and no problems. For the range it's fine...but I would never trust any safety (other than a transfer) if I were carrying with all 6 loaded...but...

I've pulled more than I want to think about over the years without a problem including heavily crimped rounds in 44, 357 & 45 Colt.

I switched to coated a couple of years ago and prefer them for all of my target shooting. Started with Bayou and Blue Bullets and am now using Acme.

If you haven't yet please go to a gun store or range and sign the repeal petition. Be as active as possible in the pro 2A community in WA. What I did was purchase some of my "want list" firearms before the law took effect as I don't like the idea of signing away my rights. I am hoping - and...

in a full mag how many rounds does this happen to ? maybe gunk in the firing pin channel...does the hammer drop normally when you pull the trigger on those? if not maybe gunk in the sear cage If hammer doesn't drop normally I would use a spray cleaner/dry lube like Hornady's One-Shot to clean...

When mine flares up I wear a brace. I reload and shoot pretty much bunny fart loads to minimize the pain. If it gets bad or I shoot a heavy caliber/stout load I will use gel cushioned gloves (made for mountain biking) which helps. But to be honest, heavier guns are less painful to shoot and...

Only had a problem with mine the first time. After that it's been easy. As others have said, pull + twist should let you remove it....or you could buy a 2nd CZ :rofl:

Ballistol - my clp of preference and works well for me on plastic as well as wood and leather.