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I live in Michigan where "out the side" opening automatic knives are legal and im interested in a Buck 110 Auto. However every site I go to states you must be some form of military or manufacturer to purchase and I cant find a store in state that sells them. I have gone to "Knifecenter.com" and...

What is you preferred bearing style for a folding knife? Personally I lean towards bronze washers or in the case of the Buck 110 nothing at all.

I am installing a new gas block on my AR rifle, being the knob that I am I have forgotten how to determine which front sight height(low profile, standard, high) I need. I am installing a "Yankee Hill Machine Low Profile Gas Block".

I am looking for something compact. Thank you.

I have a Dillon RL550C and a Redding Big Boss II press, will they mount on the Lee stand? For clarity, I mean 1 mounted top side with the other stored on the bottom shelf.

Are Redding reloading dies worth the extra cost over Lee reloading dies? Im a casual reloader, do it more for fun than out of a need for extreme precision. I currently reload .223/5.56, .300 Blackout, .40S&W, may start .44 Magnum and .44 Special down the road.

Appreciate all of the feedback everyone. I settled on the Redding Big Boss II. Co-Ax is beyond my budget at the moment.

Ive read that quite a few people break the handle collar while resizing 50 BMG? One of the appeals to me of the Lee Classic Cast was that it could handle the 50 BMG and most people seem to agree its up to the challenge.

I only have experience with the Lee Auto Hand Prime Tool (old model, no longer made), its worked well for me priming .223, .40 S&W, 9mm and 500S&W. Ive considered the Franklin Armory hand priming tool, has very good reviews.

Ive had a "Lee Breech Lock Challenger" press for some time now and feel a desire to upgrade to a more over built single stage press. Was considering either the "Lee Classic Cast" or "Redding Big Boss II." Any input is appreciated.

I never considered blueing the surfaces, I may have to try that.

My LNL powder measure is developing minor rust spots on the bare metal surfaces. I havent experienced this on other metalic bodied powder measures. Is there a powder safe lubricant available that wont require me to disassemble and degrease the powder measure before every reloading session?

I have seen others make it work, not difficult if I remember correctly.

Considering one of these stands from Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/29-inch-heavy-duty-tool-stand-95128.html https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-tool-stand-69805.html https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-bench-grinder-stand-3184.html

Ive been considering that, may be tricky bolting it to my bedroom floor though.

I recently purchased a Dillon RL550C press and need a proper stand for it. Im currently using a poorly constructed bench I made from pallet scrap and its just not up to the task. Ideally a reloading stand would be better as cost and space are a concern. Any input is appreciated.

Appreciate the input everyone! I decided to take te dive and buy the 550C.

Im considering investing in a progressive reloading press and find myself torn between a Lee Loadmaster or the Dillon RL550C. The 550 has a fantastic record and warranty, but the Loadmaster is roughly half the cost but requires a bit more tinkering as I understand it. Any input would be...

Im certain this topic has been beaten to death, but I must ask. What causes "flame cutting" and how does one avoid it? Ive heard some say it is the result of regularly using hot loaded ammunition and others say it is the result of using too light of a round resulting in un-burnt powder...

Appreciate the feedback! Ive been considering trading my S&W X frames for something else and the 329 has my attention at the moment.