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I've tried an XD9c, good pistol, felt good in my hands, it was just too wide. I then switched to carrying and XDs 45. It concealed great, shot good, the trigger wasn't terrible. It just wasn't for me... I'm a 1911 guy at heart. I now carry a Ruger CMD. I have put some work into it, mostly...

My vote is for a 1911. I just picked up a Citadel for under $400. I am using it as a project gun, but so far out of the box it's been good. A little sear/hammer work and some spring tuning got the trigger down to a crisp breaking 3.5 pounds. A new barrel bushing from EGW tightened things up A...

I will go through it and replace/fit most of the parts. I've come to really like the EGW stuff, it will get a new hammer, sear, disconnector, also hammer strut and main spring cap in titanium. I will have EGW cut a barrel bushing, then flush cut and crown the barrel. I will fit a smith&alexander...

I just bought a Citadel (fancy rock island) 9mm. The slide/frame fit and barrel lock up is tighter than my Ruger. The slide/frame overhang on the back was also finished better than my Ruger. There are some rough edges (cocking serrations and thumb safety). The grip safety needs a little clean up...

I have over 20,000 rounds out of my Ruger CMD. All stock parts besides the EGW "raised" mag catch, firing pin stop, barrel bushing/recoil spring plug, main spring housing and sights. No "major" parts have failed, everything that was changed was for personal preference. I put a new recoil spring...

Commander length 1911

It's at my work, a machine shop. Two CNC mills and a CNC lathe.

Here's my reloading "room". And a cleaner picture of my bench.

$800 is a very fair price for a knife like that!

That piece of material on the left is about 11" long, 2" wide and .25" thick. He said it would be around $400 just for the piece of steel.

These bladesmiths do some amazing stuff with metal! I recently started workin with a local bladesmith. I'm a machinist so i would rather the machine do most of the work. There is no machine that can replace what these guys do with their hands. I got this piece of damascus from the guy I've been...

Nickel will run longer without needing lube.

I don't think many of them (if any) get completely removed. I don't think there is enough material there.

An updated picture of mine with a little more "experience".

I started with a Ruger CMD. I couldn't afford a Dan Wesson CBOB. I'm not sure how much new sight cuts for adjustable sights would cost but I'm very happy with this pistol. I am lucky enough to be a machinist so I did all the work myself but it was all pretty simple stuff.

I'm at a small shop where it's just the owner and me. We are both into guns. I'm into guns and cars. I'm fortunate enough to be able to come to the shop anytime I please and work on whatever I want. I would be broke if I had to pay for all the parts I've made for cars. I also could not afford...

Subbed for reference.

I also use a Lyman. It does what it says. It's nice to only have to handle each case one time to debur the inside and outside of the case mouth and clean up the primer pocket. I usually do runs of 1000+ 5.56 range brass, so I would like to handle each piece of brass as little as possible.

I have had a few plastic guns... Not anymore, I always go back to 1911s. Now I learned plastic just isn't for me.

I must have some out of spec 5.56 brass then. Every time one gets mixed in with my .223 brass when I charge it, it is filled more than the .223 brass.