I don’t know if it makes a difference, but I always soak the “nose” of the bore snake with solvent, and the tail with some oil before I pull it through a pistol or rifle barrel. Seems to make the going easier and it may help clean the bore a little.
My 9mm Hipoint carbine with a cheap red dot optic is great! The stock sights— not so much.
And… there are upgrades to make it into a more “normal” PCC.
Think of getting a better (less abrasive) bolt handle, lose the iron sights entirely, red dot optic, 20rd mags that really work are...
Sent my BHP slide off to Novak’s for new sights. I’ve been wanting this for a long time!
The front blade sight and tiny notch rear just don’t do it for me anymore.
Loaded 200 9mm with S/A SPPs. No problems.
That’s a S&B case in the middle that I could not deprime on my Lee Auto Breech Lock Pro. Locked it up! That’s one heck of a primer crimp!
BHSS seems to be very responsive. Ordered a type 1 safety sear lever on Thursday— received it today (Monday)! I’ll put it in tomorrow… it is well machined and finished and I’m sure it will drop in.
23lb hammer spring is the 1911 standard.
Does your Kimber have a flat bottom firing pin stop? (No bevel on bottom). If so, that’s why it’s hard to rack. Leave it alone if so— it really helps lessen recoil. Just cock the hammer before racking if it’s to difficult to do.
BHP. Function check after sear work.
Still had one hammer drop to half cock out of 100 rds. I’ll try the new hammer I got from Numrich this week. The old hammer hooks look ok but the angle seems off.
I’ve really been enjoying shooting this Hipower!
Finished tweaking my BHP today. It dropped to half cock a couple of times last range trip. I consulted the Browning field manual and found the problem addressed there. Simple fix to stone a certain sear contact point where it was a bit high and contacting the slide. Easy fix that makes the slide...
Bolts should not be cranked down, just tight enough to keep the slack out. Keep it lubed at the pivot points with STP or a good grease. Ram, too. That press should last a long time.
I bet that works well!
I made the tool described in the hi-power field manual out of a 16p nail. Slipped some shrink tube on it after a few wraps with electrical tape. Now I have a solid hi-power disassembly tool that won’t scratch the frame or the hammer. Slips on & off easily.
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