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Google is your friend. I learned there is a whole ‘subsystem’ In google to search the patent database. And I have found two of the three patents cited on the barrel. Provides a little insight into its internals. There is no side plate, so it would appear the hand and cylinder lock drop out...

I found this reference as well. This gentleman’s research appears to have ended before my revolver was made. None of the patent dates match. So perhaps Wheeler or a Fox made it. I’m trying to search patents but this morning at least it can’t seem to find any 1880s dares, only 1980s! Still...

Blue Book says this model has a circular side plate on the left side. Mine does not; as seen in the photos, the frame is monolithic. So I’m still unsure of which iteration of the company made it. It was sold to me as C&R, so the seller, at least, thought it was post-1898.

It uses standard .32 S&W, aka “Short”, 15mm case length.

Hello all, I just purchased a nickel plated six-shot top break revolver chambered in .32 S&W with a 3-1/4” barrel. The seller, Ancestry Arms, dated it to the early 20th Century. The only marks on the gun are the serial number on the butt and an inscription along the top of the barrel. The...

I tried carrying a P239 for awhile but settled on a P290RS. It's DAO, I carry it in a F3 pocket holster, so the trigger type makes it very safe to carry.

I'm a .32ACP/7.65mm slut, I can't resist them. I have over two dozen, all semis (from a FN1900 up through a NAA Guardian) except for my Nagant with its .32 cylinder. I'm not much for wheelguns, but this .32 Long and H&R magnum discussion has piqued my interest. I'm heading out to a local gun...

Some Nagant revolvers imported into the US (Century was one of them) were repackaged to include a .32 ACP cylinder. At the time it was thought .32 ACP ammo would be easier to find and cheaper to shoot than 7.62x38R. It's cheaper, but Nagant ammo is readily available. I had to get my gunsmith...

My thoughts, too, Sunray. Using wood care products for leather was a real head-scratcher. But I heard it from two old hands, horse people from way back. I still had my doubts, so I went to saddle soap to clean and follow the advice of the imperial German army and use Ballistol for conditioning.

Strangely enough, I've heard from more than one horse person who maintains tack to try Murphys Oil Soap or Old English Furniture Polish. I used to use Ballistol like the German Army once did but recently worked on a Polish P-64 holster with a glycerin Saddle soap. Nice results.

Take a look at the F3 pocket holster. I use one with my SIG P290 (shorter than your G43) but it works well.

Inside the ejection port on the barrel should be a stamp of an antler (for Ulm), an eagle over N (Nitro proofmark) and a two-digit number (year of proofing, close enough to use as year of production). Definitely European, if pre-1985 its French made and German finished. Interarms never...

I reached out to a GunBroker seller who let me know he has one out of a model 644, which is the same design in .22LR. I just ordered it. I hope it works. Thank all, for the comments and information.

The item on eBay is the mainspring and rod. I need the sear bar. As I mentioned in my OP, I tried Numrich and they are out of stock for the four models that used the same part. The Bersa 85 is different at the top and has an additional reinforcement on the foot, probably a response to the...

Looks like it might be right but this item is not on eBay, or at least my searches haven't unearthed it. And the three guys selling parts on eBay don't have one.

It's spring Steel. It provides the base For the mainspring rod and acts as the sear/cocking piece.

Hello, I'm trying to source a sear bar, also known alternately as a cocking piece, for a Bersa Lusber 844. The part is identical to those found in the models 84, 622, and 644. Here's a detail from the schematic; it is part #44. I have already checked off Jack First, Popperts, Numrich, and...

I own two Astras, a 300 and a 600/43, and I agree both are painful to disassemble. Thankfully, the Count, or his successor, designed the field strip system to bypass the need to remove the barrel bushing too often. I am very appreciative of all the time and effort put into discussing this...

A guy on gunboards gave me overall dimensions, 5/8 x 5/8. But inside is a ridge that I think is important.

Thanks, Bill. I have saved searches on both sites. I hope one turns up soon, this 51 shouldn't be a safe queen, it should be out on the range, but I'm worried about shooting it without the bushing.