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I think the 1858 Remington is a handsome revolver. I've thought of getting the Uberti/Taylors/ Cimarron version only with the .45 Colt conversion cylinder, but haven't justified the desire yet. I have the Taylor's 1875 Remington, which is the follow-on to the 1858 and looks a lot like it, but it...

The relatively short original production is one of the reasons M58's are desirable, beside them being .41 Magnum. It's also the only revolver I can think of other than the M26 that did not have an engineering change during its entire run, so all of them are no-dash guns. However, the M26 is...

I must misunderstand what the green door opens to....is it the laundry chute? :p

In addition to the keys to the penthouse, you also get valet parking. A first-year production M57 or M58 would gain you unlimited access behind the green door. Both my M57 and M58 are S prefix guns.

They look nice, I like the darker striping. I took the factory finish off my two Uberti's to make them look "more period correct" and was surprised to find nice pieces of walnut hiding under the reddish lacquer finish. I sealed them with Danish oil and waxed them and like the look much better.

Here is the law, as written, straight from SLED's website...

I really like the look of the case color receiver, I wanted the Big Boy rifle with one, but they were usually back-ordered and local sales didn't have one. I finally got the brass receiver and like it almost as well. I'm thinking of getting the larger loop lever for it now. Have you looked at...

Are you going to quote everyone else in this thread who said they didn't carry openly? It's a choice you make, and I answered the way I did to explain the answer, that I'd rather not face confrontation if it is avoidable. I did answer the question of what I carry and in what it is carried. The...

I don't carry openly, it's an open invitation to questions from the woke left about why I'm armed (and my answer is always "because 2A"), and seen as a challenge possibly by others. My ECD is either a Commander-size 1911 or a snubbie .357. Both are worn OWB in leather.

I could swear they had the hammer back when I passed through the gate and saw them. Years play mean tricks on an old brain. I should know better, I qualified with the M9 but never carried one, as aircrews were still issued revolvers. USAF is the only time I ever fired the Beretta, never cared...

1911 carry conditions is one of the largest arguments you'll find on a gun forum. How you decide to carry one depends on your level of experience and training and to a great degree, your level of comfort. My LE and military firearms training didn't delve into the 1911, but it did address being...

IMO, any modification from how it was delivered from the factory will diminish its collector value to a serious collector. But, a serious collector would also want the original box and accessories plus the paperwork and paper wrapping, so it's already lost value. If you plan to keep it and make...

If your gun has the hammer with the concealed rod and floating firing pin, the trigger has a small arm on it that engages the rod. You could cut that arm off, I suppose, or maybe it's okay to leave it, but I got the trigger without it , just so the action would be true to the 4-click design.

Taylor and Company has the 4-click hammer and trigger. You won't need the cylinder rod. I retrofitted my Uberti 1873 with these and like the gun much better after getting rid of the safety hammer. It is a drop-in replacement and can be done in a half hour without hurrying. There are youtube...

Close, but no cigar. Eustachian Tubes run from the middle ear to the throat and help equalize pressure. What you're looking for is 'escutcheon', the little threaded brass piece that the screw threads into. You get an "E" for effort, though :p

This picture of the inside of the yoke cut on the frame looks like a badly finished weld. Also, there is an "N" stamped on the left side of the butt frame, indicating this is (was) a nickel plated gun. Looks like the finish has been removed, as it would have to be if welding was done on the...

S&W won't help with dating the gun if you call. But if you have the box it has the mfg date on the label, in the "spec ord" window, I believe. It used to be a Julian date, not sure if it's still that or a different format. According to SCSW, CDT is 1999. "912" is likely a production line...

Lubriplate 130-A is what I use on all my 1911 slide rails and the bolt rollers and op rod of my M1A. It stays put and only takes a tiny bit.

I like forged parts best, like the older S&W's use for hammer and trigger, instead of MIM. As for cast vs forged both have to be finished by some means and a cast part can be just as strong as a forged part. MIM is my least desired.

I have three safe queens and don't shoot them because I want to keep them in the same condition as they were when I got them so I can pass them on. One is a nickel 6" M29-2 that was a low production commemorative and originally a closed market gun; another is a M520, a non-catalogued special...