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To push a 9mm 124gr FMJ at top velocity, load it long (1.15") and use Power Pistol. I'm not aware of any +P data for Power Pistol, but Alliant's 2004 book shows 6.6gr (MAX) PP pushing a 125gr FMJ to 1235 at 34ksi from a 4" barrel. Flash and boom may not be NATO spec, but velocity will be quite...

My experience with the Hornday LRNs is that they're very soft swaged bullets. Works great in a 12-15ksi .38 special, but not much fun in .38 super. They would work nicely as the bulk for a better alloy in a more suitable caliber/weight for you.

Based on the name "Ballard" and the .379 diameter, that bullet is probably intended for .38-55, which has a .379 min groove diameter and .377 bullet. The .375 Win is designed around a .376 bullet and minimum groove, although your particular rifle might measure differently.

Geco. http://cartridgecollectors.org/headstampcodes

Best bet is to go to the source: https://ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/WesternPowdersHandloadingGuide8.0_WEB.pdf

I saw those quite a while ago, but I've never used them. Found this writeup and decided that I had no need for them. https://www.chuckhawks.com/winchester_777_primers.htm

There are indoor ranges that won't allow projectiles with exposed lead. The coated bullets satisfy that requirement at lower cost.

I do not have personal experience with Precision, but I know many people have had them test their loads. I wouldn't hesitate to use their service. Many people were developing non-tox loads for waterfowl, so you might also try some of those forums-- duck hunting chat, the refuge forums, etc.

AA hulls are quite a bit lower volume than Cheddite hulls, so your speed observations make sense. Probably worth contacting American Reloading to understand what other load data they have or to what specification they blended the powder--is it intended to be GreenDot-ish? Seems like maybe it...

Yes, spray the cases and then let them dry. Sounds like you're running a carbide die set, so you could just spray a few and then sequence them through. Not sure about your last comment-- If your issue is the sticky brass (and super clean brass can be sticky in carbide), the lube will solve it.

This isn't answering the question you asked, but you'll likely split those cases before they need trimmed.

I think that you're referring to the warning Winchester had on 296 to reduce no more than 3% from max? Alliant doesn't have that warning--they still say that their published values are max loads and you should start by reducing 10%.

There are many combinations of components for .223. Best to go to the source. https://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/WesternPowdersHandloadingGuide8.0_WEB.pdf

300MP is pretty much just a slightly slower H110/296. Alliant doesn't call for magnum primers with their data. I've used in .44 mag with Winchester LPP. No ignition issues. Alliant used some very long test barrels for their load data--if I recall correctly, the .357 mag looked crazy fast...

I was always taught sprue out with DEWCs to give the best/cleanest base. But like the other posters above, I can't shoot the difference.

Even before the shortages and price increases, it was hard to beat the price of the promo rounds in 12/20 gauge loads. For target loads, you can load equivalent quality for about the same price (hard shot, factory or clone wads) or just a little cheaper than the premium factory loads. There...

I've never tried anything over 180 in a .357 magnum, but Lee lists a 2400 load for 200 grain lead bullets--10 grain MAX@ 1.575 32.8 ksi and 1245fps. Seems like you should be able to get your 1000fps out of a 7" barrel.

caveat emptor. The contents are on the container.

Yes. Alliant does lot #, letter, production date in mm/dd/yy format. The CE 0519 is common across different powders.

As long as there's no corrosion, you should be good. I've taken grouse with 50+ year old "barn stored" shells that looked almost new.