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Don't want to be a wet blanket, but a washer's RPM is WAY too fast for cleaning brass. RPM's should, with that size of tumbler, be about 8 to 10 RPM's. Think cement mixer. Borg

Looking at the video, it looks like you're going too hot. Get the heat crayon from a welding shop to get the right temp. I've found that if I get the cases hot enough to see red, the brass is almost dead soft, something you don't want. You might check it. It does look fantistic, now just...

Something else you can try if it doesn't line up. Loosen the "V" block and bring the "V" toward you and re tighten. There is just a small amount of play in the Block that it will help fine tune the block to the plate. IIRC, seems to me I had to do this when I first got mine. Borg

Sounds like you don't have the "window" open enough to drop the case free. Borg Re-read OP, the finger on the micro switch need to be SLIGHTLY bent out more, I've had to do this after seeing how the case has more room to slip by the finger.

Not quite true. When switching back and forth with moly. it takes 10-15 rnds to settle down, going either way. Borg

I ran across something different that I'd never seen before. Was seating primers in some Win 223 cases and had one that just wouldn't seat all the way down. Later came back to it and removed the primer and looked in the pocket. it had a raised portion in the bottom middle of the pocket to stop...

Worn out two by not cleaning the primer residue off the base and ram, guess I didn't learn the first time. I mean 1/8 in movement in the ram will give BAD runout. On my 3rd, (12 yrs) but don't deprime on it at all, and wipe down immediately after sizing. (the powder residue can also wear the...

Anybody ever thought about using powder from a firecracker? Make a paste with 99% alcohol, put a daub in the cup and seat the anvil, then put another daub to hold it in place. It does work, altho you need to be careful in seating the primer. I was young once too. 8^) Borg

At Perry this year, there were some factory reconditioned AP's for $299. I just can't remember if it was Sinclairs, Fir, Fin & Feather or who. Borg

Shell plates= plates that hold shells or cases. Bushings= a collar that dies screw into to be placed in the top of the press. Borg

Using 38 sp brass in a 357 not only leaves a carbon ring in the chambers,, over time and lots of rounds, will flame cut your chambers. To the point a 357 case won't eject. I have an Old Model Ruger single that I can't shoot 357 brass any more,, have to drive the cases out and you can see where...

Are you sure it wasn't LC instead of FC? I didn't realize the Mil was using the FC headstamp. Borg

It's the timing of the shellplate. You can change that by adjusting the left pawl, I belive, VERY little at a time. Borg

All rifles aren't a like. Check your reloading technique, runout? Borg

For what rifle? Borg

But RC, it IS a case separation, that's where it happens in the AR, and, yes, from too many reloadings with the size die set up wrong. Borg

First question; Is the rifle/barrel capable of smaller groups? Is the receiver turned/faced? Is the bolt lapped in? is it bedded? Crowned good? Can't turn a sow's ear into a silk purse until it's groomed, and then, still a sow's ear. Borg

That is the usual place a case separates when shot in an AR 15. For a bolt gun, it separates at the web. In the past, I've had quite a few case separations in the AR and they've ALL been 3/4" high on the case. The same applies for the M1 Garand. I think it has to do with the pressure curve and...

You might post over at this forum. http://www.starreloaders.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=3c508c0c0cc6f791ff37b833663b29b1&board=2.0. Should get you everything you need. 'Borg

I've been using the funnel with a soft, clear, plastic tube that leaves about 2" of powder in the reservoir for 30 years. Makes it more accurate for the stick powders. Borg