If you can find a copy of Roy Dunlap's book Gunsmithing, He gives about three pages of lapping procedure. It starts on page 217 in my copy (June 1979).
This one works well for me. Bonus: It is on sale at Brownells!
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/general-gunsmith-tools/wrenches/magna-tip-adjustable-torque-wrench-bf41d780/
I have a couple of (what I think are) 88 Commission Rifles. They have a sheet metal cover on the guard. These guns are original military rifles in stock condition. Would photos of those help any?
Clemson
I have one of those in the shop right now. The owner did not know that there was supposed to be a spur on the hammer. The spur broke off relatively cleanly, but it left him with a small piece of hammer to grab and pull back. Shown below with the replacement hammer not yet installed...
Just for info: That gun is an older 1100 Magnum. It is usable for Magnum shells ONLY. It won't cycle lower powered Dove and Quail loads from Walmart at all.
I have dozens of rebound springs of varying weights, but I find that I do best by cutting no more than two coils off the factory spring. I use a belt sander to cut the springs.
This inquiry from halfmoonclip got me to thinking -- I don't get the 41 out to shoot enough any more. Many of you have never seen the "Field Barrel" either. I took a few photos to illustrate what he is after:
Bill Jacobs
Field Barrel mounted on the Model 41. Weight is 37 ounces.
M41FieldBBL...
The 5" barrel is a far different animal than the 5 1/2 inch bull barrel. Bobbing a 7" barrel would give you the correct profile. The front sight would just require some looking. I bought my Model 41 in about 1974 or 75. I got it with the 7" barrel, but added a 5" Field Barrel and a 5 1/2...
The Go and No Go gauges that Shaw provides in those barrel kits are not nearly as well-made as gauges from Manson or Clymer. You might want to borrow a regular 30-06 Go gauge from a reputable manufacturer for one last try before you go recutting your chamber.
Beware of using a drill press for milling. Side loads on that drill chuck can dislodge it from the spindle taper and fling it across the room in a totally unknown direction. Use a mill for milling or hire the job done if you don’t have one.
Bill Jacobs
Gunsmith and owner of a Bridgeport Mill
I suggest that you visit pawn shops in your area. Often you can pick up a used mic for $20-25 for Starrett or Brown and Sharpe. I recommend getting a 0-1" and a 1-2" mechanical micrometer. For pure convenience a Mitutoyo Digital caliper is great, but use the micrometers for precision...
I have a 243 from the same era. It won't shoot well either. Those actions are very smooth and well-worth saving, but the barrels are a crap shoot. They likely didn't cost Remington $10 apiece. You can try floating the barrel. That won't cost you anything, and it should help with horizontal...
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