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Your brand is an individual choice based on what is most accurate for you and your revolver. But I will say that Ruger developed the SP101 around the 158 grain load and whatever brand you buy, be sure to stay with 158 grain loads. My Sp101 was shooting 3" low on 125 grain loads and nothing I...

I own an Advantage Arms conversion. I've always shot CCI Mini-Mag in mine (recommended by AA) and have never had a problem with the ammo or the kit.

I want to know that the gun I am trusting my life to will fire when I pull the trigger. I shoot my HD guns regularly to ensure their continuing operation and reliability.

Nope. :)

It varies. I'm not there to set a record, or even to record my progress. I'm there for relaxation while I reload some ammunition. And it varies depending on what I'm loading, if I'm hand priming, am I tired, etc.

IF you always start at minimum load you won't have problems. Why would you want to go below that and risk damaging your rifle? That will eventually bite you.

I would hate to load a .38 spl round with .357 magnum loads then forget and chamber one in a straight .38 spl. That's asking for trouble and there is absolutely no way I'd do it. I'll use .38 spl cases to load up to .38+P but no more.

"Clear", to me, means to remove the magazine and jack rack the slide until no more cartridges remain in the gun. If it is a revolver, it means to break open the cylinder and drop out all cases and cartridges in the cylinder. I would have packed him and his guns up and walked him off the...

If you keep doing what you're doing, you'll keep getting what you're getting. So to stop these folks from playing with you, stop associating with them. And remember, you could have gotten on your bike and rode at any time you chose to.

$600 is too rich for my blood. I'll settle for keeping my subscription up and reading that cover to cover when it arrives.

H4895 is best for the Garand, imo.

My process, if I'm concerned about getting the right charge is to zero my electronic scale with the case sitting on it. Then I load my powder charge and reweigh the case. There should be a difference of about the weight I am aiming for. IF the load is substantially different, I will try to...

Okay, here is my plan for loading... Here is my load plan for loading .38 spl brass to +P loads. .38 spl brass loaded from 6.1 grains to 6.8 grains of Power Pistol, topped with a 125 grain JHP or TMJ bullet. I would work up to find the most accurate load I can achieve within these limits...

Thanks. While I might work down to that. I think I will load .1 to .3 grains over the .38 Spl max load for now.

No, I'm not changing horses in mid stream. GO back and reread my OP. I want to 1) load .357 brass down to .38 spl speeds and loads for practice instead of loading .38 spl brass. But, I also have a small quantity of .38 spl brass and wanted to load it UP to +P loads and was asking about...

I only have one gun that shoots .357/.38 so that is no problem. And I DO mark each box clearly. I agree about keeping the .357 brass loads above the .38 spl max loads.

I guess I gave the wrong impression. There is NO WAY I would load .357 loads in .38 brass. I value my life and limbs much more than that.

That's two of you who recommended .2 to .3 above .38 loads. I think I'll start at the .357 minimum load and work down slowly.

How about six manuals...my collection so far. I'm not wanting to guess. That's why I asked the question, to follow in the footsteps of those who have gone before me and who I trust to have good information.

I have considered Trail Boss. I've ordered some from my local dealer but it hasn't arrived yet.