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https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!l=STL&i=10MM

16-18grns 2400 under a 173-210grn boolit is good for bolt or pump rifles, and 34-36grns H4895 under the same boolit will just operate most Garands, and still be mild and accurate .

One benefit of neck sizing (for two or three firings), is a good way of finding your true chamber measurement. Knowing the actual chamber size allows you to bump the shoulder back the desired .001"-.003".

I would plug your furnace into one of these PID's, and turn the temp to around 750*, and preheat your moulds on a hot plate. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?424590-VS-120v-220V-PID-controllers-for-sale-JUNE-2021

Except for 9mm and 38 special plinking ammo, I buy all my brass. I like brass for serious shooting to all be from the same manufacturer, and for rifle, from the same lot.

I really like Redding's "Instant Indicator". It is a die that will measure BTO, OAL, case length, or headspace, and does it with remarkable repeatability. It doesn't require the developed "touch" needed when using a caliper, as the ram on the press stops at the same place for every measurement.

I agree with Bill... The M-type die seems to work better for loading plated and cast bullets for me.

Try running one of these through the necks before seating your bullets. https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/expanders/expander-plug-rifle/310-x-306-exp-plug/ it will help guarantee seating them straight, and will assure uniform neck tension in one step. Good luck!

Try seating one of the bullets on an uncharged case. If it does seat without deforming, like you suspect, it’s time to lighten your powder charge, or go with a faster powder, to eliminate the compressed load. Good luck!

You Need to run one of these into your brass before you seat your bullet. https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/expanders/expander-plug-pistol/431-x-427-p-exp-plug/

Yes, as 243Win shows with his data, cast boolets generally take less powder to reach the same velocity as jacketed. They also reach their max pressure sooner than jacketed, due to the more fragile bullet base and possibility of leading.

Ok Slamfire, thats a new one to me! Please elaborate on the "Dippity DO" smeared on the cartridges, and the reasoning behind it. Thanks Buddy

After 38 years of handloading, I see very little, if any accuracy difference between different brands of primers. Maybe my shooting or evaluating procedures aren't up to the level of the pros, but I don't sweat the little things anymore. Buy what's on sale (during normal times) and be happy!

Make sure there is no bullet lube or residue built up on the sizing expander ball. This lessen bullet pull. Crimping is not a substitute for poor neck tension.

I use 8.4grns BE-86 under a 180 XTP loaded to 1.25”. 1312fps average from my 6” Kimber Longslide. Clean, powerful and accurate.

I do like the idea of breaking the edges on the chamber, and rounding and polishing them. I have done that on several 45 automatics, (along with polishing the top of the chamber), and it greatly improves the reliability. I think I may break out the Dremel and give it a light going over. Thanks

I believe the blunt bullet concept is the problem. I tried cycling ball ammo of two different types, and Hornady critical defense through it, and it fed them fine.

I just built a Aero EPC-9 carbine using all Aero parts, except a Faxon bolt. It feeds FMJ ammo fine, but REFUSES to feed even one round of RMR JHP handloads, loaded to 1.075" OAL. It gets hung up between the mag and chamber, on a 45 degree angle. Is anybody else having this issue? I'm wondering...

There are many, many better choices I pick for game animals though. Jmorris, forgive my butchering ignorance please, but have you just removed the back straps off those hogs? I wasn’t sure what I was looking at. Are they tasty without doctoring them up too much with smoking, spices, etc?

I’ve found that it’s hard to beat the Hornady XTP for pure accuracy. And it seems to be more available that RMR or Berrys