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I wasn't even looking for AR or AK, since I sold my old 22 plinker I was looking for a new one and I did find it but after spending 3 hours trying to get my record checked I gave up, that line was busy all the time once we even got through, but someone hangup on the other side...

that's weird, in my neck of the woods racks are full, but they can't sell anything, on the other hand didn't see any AR-15, but still m-14, m-1 and ak variants, I even saw pps-43 :-)

Yesterday I stopped by local Dick's wanted to buy myself a plinker 22LR, there were no customers at the hunting lodge, so I thought it wouldn't take long, but when they tried to run background check, fed line was busy. So I was there for 3 hours and line was still busy. So today I stopped again...

I see, I only had T/C ICON PH and have nothing to say about Encore PH

Are you looking at Encore PH and not muzzleloader models?

Don't know. tried lemon from Howa and bunch of lemons from Savage, I'm no longer willing spending my money on factory rifles.

there are no such thing as factory best rifle, everyone produces lemon, if you need rifle done right get yourself custom made or build it yourself, then you would appreciate what you have done...

you should try at least 500 yards to compare both, you'll be amazed ;)

Lapua brass for 6BR cost 83 bucks for 100, then 243 WIN Lapua brass cost 93 for 100 so reloading for 243 could cost more if you stay with Lapua.

Jack I bought Savage 12 LRPV in 6BR 1:8 twist and had to re-barrel it, because of the awful chamber job, also mine came with laminate BR stock, just to get my story short, this rifle with new barrel from Criterion shoots bugholes. If you have your other savage, why not give it upgrade to 6BR...

if its 110 model, then you got really thin barrel, do not shoot more then 3 shots, this barrel has tendency to get supper hot after. Also you have 1:10 twist barrel, so try to shoot 165 - 190 gr ammo. How's your muzzle crown any dents? Another thing you might want to check, remove scope with...

I recalculate your drop and with 1" high at 25, you should have 2.1" high at 50 and 100 yards you should be 5" high, then you should be right on the mark @ 300 yards, so there is nothing wrong with the scope as far as I can tell. Now what groups do you get?

yeah it was Black Friday sale 4 years ago at Dick's...

guide rods problem was one of the issue I had to deal with, accuracy is a major one, there is another issues with mag release spring somehow it came out and receiver got jammed, now it thinks I have no bullets in the magazine so it stays open after each shot.

I think you got it wrong, if you say scope was zeroed at 25 yards then yds ---- drop 25 ---- 0.0 50 ---- 1.1" 75 ---- 1.9" 100 ---- 2.3" so 1" high at 25 should produce 1.3" low so you should compensate this drop by 1.2 minutes up

I got mine 4 - 5 years ago and its nothing but problems, I'm glad Remington fixed their issues in their new generation 597's.

check your scope and rings, make sure they are tight, try different scope, if that fails, check if the barrel free-floated at last contact Savage CS, try to reach Effie Sullivan and explain your situation, she will offer you free shipping via UPS to their factory, the other CS representative...

you right this setup is cheap Weaver tactical rings and Weaver tactical 20 MOA rail, which I bedded to closely fit this action. I guess money became an issue when I had to choose new scope for this rifle, since I was anticipating 260 Rem and I bought whole setup for it like dies, brass...

I'm thinking to change my B&C A2 to wood looking laminate from Bobby Hart, the one with accublock http://www.stockysstocks.com/catalog/hartA10.jpg

I shot my buck using 120 gr SPH from my 260 REM I build from 110 Savage, I placed my shot between 3 and 4 rib just above heart, there were no exit, bullet clicked shoulder humerus (front leg) junction, that buck felt on the spot. and I recovered this fragment under shoulder blade.