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Not a gunsmith repair but rather a nice inventory upgrade; a small bench top vise for holding small micrometers in particular. I find mic-ing small parts requires a third hand hat trick sometimes. Now, I can just hold the part in one and dial the micrometer with the other....no drama...

........a different approach for the Browning universal choke tube wrench. Akin to a wing-nut hex bit driver.

Most likely the damage will occur due to compression / distortment of fine choke tube threads, from the expansion of the Brownells' tool. I was tinkering in the shop today pondering yet an alternative solutions to driving the choke tubes out using a hex drive but internally a precision drill...

^^ An expanding collet with knurling to engage the internal surface of the choke tube. I presume a crescent or specific sized wrench on the tool flats to turn the tool. Thanks !

........and Jimmy Buffet is grinning in gunsmith heaven.

As a last resort for employing an impact driver on a gunsmith sized fastener I like the Laser brand. Japanese mfg for use on small motorcycle parts. It has a 3/8" male drive, when coupled with an adapter to 1/4" hex head, it allows use of all / any magna-tip gunsmith bits. Its smaller mass...

Photo of said tool please.

I would use a universal choke tube magna tip or a hollow ground driver bit (both with hex head drives) mounted in a cordless impact driver. It's easy to fabricate a perfectly fitting driver to the slots in the choke tubes. Secure the barrel in a padded vise. Make sure the choke tube slots are...

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Tinkering in the shop yesterday. Years ago I fabricated some arbors, long and short, for using Dremel tool accessories in cordless / drill presses etc. The problem with the Dremel power plant, even the cordless, is that several thousand rpm is the slowest speed! Dremel threads are the same as a...

So, I was pondering the the manner in which to de-burr that #53 cross-drill hole (0.052") in the #4 screw. The smallest reamer I have is a 1/16th (0.062"). I came across these flexible nylon brushes coated with abrasive, designed for "micro-deburring"; they can be hand turned or powered. I have...

^^^ You have done a really nice job with this project.

When removing the ejector rod from the cylinder on the M49 I used my old laminated wood- leather vise jaw inserts. The wood backing seemed to give too much, not allowing the leather to engage a good bite on the rod. Fabricated some new 5" leather lined aluminum backed inserts today. Radiused...

......... that's all I have for TGIF.

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I had some time to check-under-the-hood of the "new" 1971 S&W Model 49 to see what 50+ years of aging lubrication looks like. No surprises on disassembly except for the extraordinarily close fit tolerance of the cylinder stop assembly, which made both removal / installation challenging. I...

I believe I have every imaginable tool and bit to remove gunsmith sized screws and employ all the usual tricks to remove the difficult ones in order to save special screws; however, sometimes you just have to drill / mill them out. Make sure you tape-protect the surrounding scope rings before...

Call me out if I am off base, but my view is that part of gunsmithing is its tranquility of acquiring some guns to smith-about. Just acquired a new-in-the box SA/DA shrouded hammer pinned barrel Smith & Wesson Model 49 no dash 1971-72 with mystical "floating J" serial number. The J-frame...

I find 90% of the difficulty related to working on small or irregularly shaped gunsmith parts is figuring out how securely hold the part. I fabricated a 1" x 1", "headstone or tombstone" profiled push block to assist in holding small or odd shaped parts in the vise. The method is that of Joe...

Some back story related to the single hole in the rear surface of the AR 15 / 16 MA1-A2's receiver extension. The original AR15/ M16 (with rubber butt pad) used a single screw (with no drain hole in the fastener) to secure the pad and fiberglass (Colt) buttstock into the single hole in the...