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Its about the same color/hue as hot dip blue, but usually not as high gloss polished looking as the carding process after each rusting tends to leave a bit more of a matte finish. It is much more durable than cold bluing (and doesn't have the associated stank). I've got a Stevens 520 that I...

On my express I replaced the follower with a machined aluminum one. It also had the "locking" safety which I didn't like so I swapped it to a standard safety. And I threw on some walnut stocks that CDNN had for cheap. If I had a bead blaster I'd go full irony and strip off the finish and...

I probably would too, but I also (and for your competition purposes I would too) would take a second backup rifle and scope. When I shot USPSA a lot I always had a backup gun in my bag, and while I don't bother when hunting close to home, if I'm on a trip where I've travelled more than 2 hours...

To me it just goes back to the purpose of the shooting, and why you bought the expensive rifle in the first place. If you're casually punching paper at 200 yards or less or hunting in close woods, then no matter how expensive or capable the rifle is a budget scope is going to work fine...

"Spend as much on the scope as the rifle" is just a pointless axiom. If taken literally and you bought a $350 Savage Axis and put a $350 scope on it that worked well, would that same scope NOT work on a $2000 rifle? Plus modern manufacturing has GREATLY helped a lot of things: many scopes sold...

I just tried my first sponge camo job myself too. I've been trying some hydrodip before this and never could get it to come out quite to my liking (always little spots that don't take) but the sponge style seems to work well.

Do all the stuff mentioned by other posters - check that your screws are tight, maybe replace rings, etc. HOWEVER, barely over MOA groups is not super inaccurate. You can probably get more out of it if you bed the action or do other things but I'd consider it well within acceptability.

I typically make due with factory length, though if anything I'd be lengthening LOP not shortening it.

That was one of the few milsurps that I didn't pick up back when I had my C&R license and imports were more plentiful. I always regretted it. Congrats on your find!

Yeah indeed, but this seems WAYYYYYY overpriced. Most people don't buy these Turkish-made guns for their world-renowned quality - they buy them because they're cheap. I'd be interested in this for $300 (even that is stretching a bit). More than that I'll save a little more for something else.

They're almost certainly just doing .357 because they think it'll sell better. SAAMI max for .44 Mag is 36,000 PSI. Same for .357 Mag is 35,000 PSI - no commercial product is going to be skirting to close to the safety line that 1k PSI would make any difference.

Yeah when I was growing up my dad had 5 or 6 guns - all of them (including his hunting rifle - a Remington 742) had crossbolt safeties. I didn't encounter anything other than a crossbolt until I was an adult so it took me a long time before I got the whole "forward for fire" thing.

Any possibility of getting some closer photographs of that? 3D printing is a great tool for home use but I have to admit I'd feel a bit slighted to get a 3d printed part over injection molded at this price point.

If you only have $100 to spend, I'd recommend a SIG Whiskey3 over 2 ones you listed. In general though I've never been happy with anything in the price range. Granted I'm not a scope snob (my hunting range is generally 100 yards and less so optical clarity isn't super important, and I'm a "set...

I hopped on that deal too. $299 was just too good to pass up, though I would have liked the longer barreled version. I'll be picking mine up this Saturday :D.

You had the caveat right in your post - the Hi Point is a blow-back action. The slide is going to open up and any building pressure will release through the breech before it builds high enough to split the barrel. With rifles, not only are the pressures involved typically a lot higher, but...

The result isn't frightening - its expected. A bore obstruction will universally cause a barrel to catastrophically fail.

Ok, I feel stupid for asking this question, but I own no rifles with a fiberglass stock - plenty of wood (both solid and laminate) and injection polymer stocks. My only experience with fiberglass was our old fiberglass satellite dish when I was a kid, insulation, and fiberglass ladders. These...

I love that stock - I run it on mine, though its a pretty bone stock Mini-14 with just that stock as an upgrade. Still, between the rifle being on clearance and a dealer discount from Brownells I think I've got around $750 in mine, so I'm happy with it.

I'd definitely pass at $1500. You can get a new real AUG for maybe $100-200 more than that.