10/22 - numerous FTE

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Lightsped

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I am getting numerous FTEs with my stock 10/22. I took the gun apart and cleaned it. I also took the rotary magazine apart and did the same. Everything should be good, but it seems I get at least one FTE per 10 rounds. I have tried various ammo. Same results with everything....

ANy ideas? This gun never used to fail like this.... The gun is three years old and is used about once per month.
 
The first thing I'd check is the extractor (see if it's broken or missing), and the chamber (if there are scratches, burrs, or rust spots in the chamber, they can "grip" a case enough to prevent extraction). After that, I'd try the Volquartsen/VQ extractor, since it gets more of a bite on the case.
 
If the extractor is missing or broken wouldn't that make every shot result in a FTE? I don't know, thats why I am asking....

Also, how reliable are the Ruger rotary magazines that come with this gun?
 
factory magazines are rather good so far for me. Have one that the previous owner of my gun put at least 2 thousand rounds through. The only hassle i have is that the dirty ammo i use will cause the parts to lock up a little bit if i leave the magazine loaded for prolonged times without cleaning.

Have you seen any indication of rifling on the very front edge of the empty brass that refuse to eject properly? How about a bulge on the headstamp of the toruble brass?
For me that happens with birdshot rounds, they expand in the rifle and just stick/fireform to the chamber.

Possible it may be bad ammunition?
 
Probably extractor. Have you taken it apart? Maybe the barrel got put back on a little cockeyed causing the extractor not to line up with the extractor slot in the barrel properly?
 
Have you been using any aquila SSS 60 grain ammo? If so the short case causes a buildup of carbon where a normal case would chamber and can be a real pain to get out.

It will cause normal cases to stick in the chamber.
 
If the extractor is missing or broken wouldn't that make every shot result in a FTE?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily; most .22s will work perfectly fine WITHOUT an extractor, since they don't usually develop enough pressure to "grip" the chamber walls, and the case will just ride the bolt back until the ejector kicks it out of the firearm. There have been a number of semi rimfires designed entirely without extractors, but the problem with them is, if you have a misfire or dud, you need a knife or a long fingernail to clear the chamber.
 
http://www.rimfirecentral.com
go here, go to the top of the page, look at adverts, Christies, Weaponkraft, etc., get a parts up grade kit, make sure it has at least , the vq or exact edge extractor, with new spring, and plunger as well if you can get them. other part would be a plus at this point. make sure when you change out your extractor, plunger/spring parts , do it in a large clear bag, that you can put both hands comfortably in, while doing the work, because you will do at least one AAASPROING!!!!! with the parts, and the bag will keep them from flying.
 
Before doing anything always clean the gun and try differemt ammo. Since you already clened it, give different ammo a try before you start buying all these uprgaded part kits.
 
Clean and oil the gun. Take a stock 10/22 10 round mag and load it. Cycle BY HAND the rounds, watch all the actions very carefully, you can also do the action very very slow and see how everything is working.

The extractor should grip the .22LR round hard enough so that it is suspended on the breech face only by the extractor hook when the round is removed from the chamber. The ejector should push the round off when at this state right out of the reciever.
Taking the gun apart check the ejector as well, if its worn then the case will not extract properly. Just my .02
 
The ejector for the 10/22 is built into the magazine lips. That is why Ruger uses a steel mag lip on their magazines. There is a secondary "back-up" ejector on the trigger group housing as well but it is not really necessary. The first thing I would do is change magazines, preferably a new factory Ruger. If that doesn't solve your problem, remove the extractor, extractor spring and plunger and clean the bolt thoroughly. Replacing it with a VQ or similar extractor can never hurt either. Might try changing ammo as well . . .

-- ale
 
I had a Ruger 10/22 T. Tried all the advice given above. Purchased a standard factory barrel, new magazines, etc. Cleaned rifle and magazines after every trip to the range. Nothing worked. Finally realized the extractor was poorly fit. Remove the bolt and slip a cartridge under the extractor. A little play might be normal, but mine had at least 1/8" between the rim and the bottom of the extractor. After market extractors worked no better. Finally shipped the bolt off to Ruger and asked that they properly fit an extractor. The fit still seems sloppy, but the failure ejectors have almost disappeared.
 
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