1851 Navy .44 revolver

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Olon

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Howdy,

I was walking through Scheels today and came across this kit for a Navy 1851 revolver. Powder horn, pistol, the whole works. I've never fired anything black powder but I have a passion for history, especially history of the West and shooting (obviosly). The price was $237 and that was shocking for me. Considering picking one up and getting into black powder. Anybody have experience with these? Would this be a good entry level deal? I just think that's so cool.

Thanks for your input,

Olon

Edit: They also remind me of the Outlaw Josey Wales, one of my favorite movies so there's that piece ;)
 
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Howdy Olon!

That's a good price for everything you get. Is it a brass framed gun?

Just be advised, once you get one and fire it, that one will never be enough! You will be hopelessly addicted to black powder pistols!

Enjoy!
 
Tell us more about what's in the kit and about the caliber of the gun.

It can be a lot of work to finish a kit gun.
A brass frame gun can't be loaded up with full powder charges like a steel frame gun can.
That's not so bad if it's a .36 caliber since those are not as prone to frame stretching in the long run as a .44 might be if moderate powder charges aren't used.
However, a factory finished brass framed .36 can be found for $185 plus shipping from Dixie Gun Works:--->>> https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...ct_name/SSB204+1851+NAVY+BRASS+FRAME+REVOLVER

The price for a brass framed .44 Wyatt Earp Model which has a really long barrel cost just under $200 ready to shoot out of the box:--->>> https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index..._name/RH0130+Dixie+Pietta+Wyatt+Earp+Revolver

It's also worth investigating the different models of cap & ball revolvers to better understand their differences before you buy one.
There are Colts and Remingtons and they each have their own advantages and disadvantages, just like steel frame and brass frame guns have their differences.
You should know something about them in advance before you buy in order to be able to make an informed decision.

Some accessories are more important to have than others, while some can be improvised by using alternatives or made at home.
A nipple wrench is important, but a person can also make one.
A powder measure is important but can be improvised.
A powder flask is important but can also be improvised.

Check out the "black powder essentials" sticky at the top of the black powder forum home page.

Don't hesistate to ask questions, and THR has the best C&B revolver database by using the advance search feature and specifying this black powder forum when you type in the keywords.
 
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Hi Olon - What Arcticap said. He covered it.

Your interest in history and 19th Century firearms is commendable. Considering that, you may prefer to get a replica of an historic gun. Brass .44’s never happened and they are very limiting. Forty-four Navy never happened either. Lot’s of viable and historically correct choices are available to you for a comparable amount of money. I’d keep shopping.

Whatever you choose, proper hollow ground screw drivers or bits are also necessary. See Brownell's, Grace USA, etc.
 
Howdy,

I was walking through Scheels today and came across this kit for a Navy 1851 revolver. Powder horn, pistol, the whole works. I've never fired anything black powder but I have a passion for history, especially history of the West and shooting (obviosly). The price was $237 and that was shocking for me. Considering picking one up and getting into black powder. Anybody have experience with these? Would this be a good entry level deal? I just think that's so cool.

Thanks for your input,

Olon

Edit: They also remind me of the Outlaw Josey Wales, one of my favorite movies so there's that piece ;)


No I don't think it would be a good entry level deal just my opinion. In response to those who have a contrary opinion I would counter why would someone starting out who appreciates civil war history want to get a profoundly historically incorrect kit that when finished will result in a gun that is weaker and more sensitive to how much powder is loaded into it than an original in the proper caliber.

I remember a time when brass framed cap and ball revolvers let alone kits of any kind were significantly less expensive. I don't know why this is not the case anymore. It could be CNC machining has made the price gap smaller due to the ease of precision in manufacturing. I have no idea just an ignorant guess. The rest to follow is not.

Get a steel frame gun. If you look around you can find one for close to that price fully assembled blued and ready to use. It's worth a few extra dollars if it comes to that. You will be limited to low power loads with a brass frame. Depending on how historically correct you want your revolver to be you may want to choose another type of revolver instead of a .44 caliber 1851 Navy because the consensus is they never existed and the authentic .36 caliber version was a steel frame.

Brass frame revolvers never took off in the civil war and for good reason, brass was not durable enough even in .36 caliber. The confederates did make a few brass frame copies of some steel framed revolvers only because their steel supply was very scarce. They were not preferred. They will not last long if used with regularity and you are limited to low power powder charges.

Remington even made the .31 caliber pocket model in brass. They did not sell well and number of sales clearly shows their steel framed version was much more preferred even though is was a tiny revolver made for pocket carry and occasional use.

Brass does look extraordinary when polished to a military shine and would make a beautiful but functional piece to hang on the wall. It would be fine to use from time to time with low powder charges and lighter projectiles (ie round balls only and no heavier conicals.)

Properly fitted screwdrivers make work much much easier but they do cost extra. I had a set of grace gun screw drivers and I managed to snap the tip on every single one of them (7 in all.) with very little force in use. They were inexpensive but not worth it. I then brought a set Brownells magna tips (expensive) based on customer reviews and professional recommendations which I have not fully tested yet. I you buy a screw top handle and just the bits you need only the Brownells may be affordable.
 
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I would suggest that a kit may not be the best first choice since it may require some fitting and tuning of the action to function.
This is a lot easier to do after you understand how it's all supposed to work, and if you have a working example in front of you to compare.
 
Gentleman,

@arcticap cut me a really good deal on a C&B from his personal collection. Ended up going for a steel framed Pietta Rem 1858 New Model Army. More historically accurate and a real pretty piece to boot. Can't wait to start burning some powder. Y'all can expect to see my face on the black powder thread a lil more now ;) A big thanks to that fellow for getting me hooked and to all of you for your input.

See ya on the high road :thumbup:
 
Olon purchased this Pietta Remington 1858 that I recently posted about:--->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/some-colors.842707/#post-10949200

index.php
 
Olon's hooked up fat, now. That'll give him something to shoot. Beats all hell out of an unfinished pile of .44 brass Navy parts.
 
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