Howdy
The Remington is more likely to bind up quickly because of the lack of a bushing on the front of the cylinder, and the fact that the pin is so narrow. A cylinder bushing protects the cylinder pin from fouling blasted out of the barrel/cylinder gap. Withoiut a bushing, the fouling quickly works its way down between the cylinder and the pin, causing binding. Most of the cartridge revolvers that followed the percussion revolvers had cylinder bushings. Colt C&B revolvers did not have a bushing either, but the helical clearance grooves on the arbor gave the fouling more clearance, and the arbor was wider with more surface area to spread the fouling out.
Here is a side view of the cylinder pin from one of my Remingtons. This is how much the flat removes from the total circumference. The grooves you see on this pin are an attempt to give the fouling someplace to go, and they also provide a place to hold BP compatible grease.
Here is a comparison of a Remington cylinder pin and a Colt style arbor.
Flame cutting is also common with Remingtons. Look carefully where the arrow is pointing in this photo. The groove that does not go around the pin is the result of flame cutting. Flame cutting happens when the hot gasses and abrasive particles ejected from the barrel/cylinder gap actually eat into the steel of the cylinder pin. I bought this revolver back in 1975, and it has had many hundreds of rounds fired through it, causing this amount of flame cutting.
Don't use regular gun oil with your C&B, it is not compatible with Black Powder and may make things worse. There are plenty of Black Powder compatible oils and greases on the market. Bore butter is good, so is Ballistol. Do try to keep the pin well lubed. When firing my Remmies with 45 Colt conversion cylinders I pop out the cylinder to reload and wipe the face of the cylinder with a damp cloth for every reload. I grease up the pin whenever I think it needs it.