1911 Quick-Fixes

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Has turned into a great thread. Everybody sharin' little things that they've picked up and figured out along the way lets us all benefit.

Old Fuff said:

If you ever inspect a mint or like-new Colt Government Model National Match pistol made around 1935 to ’41 you will see what polishing and metal finishing REALLY is.

Amen Fuff! Wish some of the younger guys could see what Colt and Smith & Wesson used to be capable of. They had honest-to-God craftsmen
on the job, trained and supervised by honest-to-God Master gunsmiths
and armorers.

Another little trick here...

Sometimes we find that a chamber shoulder is a bit sharp, and accumulates
carbon fouling. When this happens, it can screw up the headspacing and cause failures to return to battery. Even if it doesn't cause functioning problems, the more anal retentive among us likes to have the chamber
area CLEAN, and sometimes it takes a while to get it all with a bronze brush and solvent.

Get a fired .45 Colt case and lay it on a bastard cut mill file mouth down.
Use a 4-ounce hammer to tap on the rim wile lifting and turning the case
to establish some "cutting" teeth in the mouth of the case. Run it over the expander ball in the die set that you've set the ball deep enough into the case to bell it a little. Keep increasing the belling intil you get a light interference fit between the case and the chamber wall. When it's just barely finger-tight, you can push the case to the shoulder and turn it
while pushing lightly. The rough edge on the case mouth cuts through the
carbon and leaves the shouder clean. It also cuts heavy carbon fouling out of the whole chamber. Follow up with a brush and solvent.

Keep'em comin' guys. No matter how lame YOU think your tip may be, it
might just turn out to be a real help to somebody. If it's simple and it
works, it ain't stupid. Don't be bashful, now...and don't assume that
the experienced among us already knows about your idea.

Cheers!

Tuner
 
Loose grips: take blue painters tape, cut off a small strip and wrap around the gripscrew bushings. the grip should slide around no longer. Note, regular masking tape breaks down too fast from gun oils/solvents.

White dot sights: the paint getting dingy on your three dot sights? Apply a fresh coat and let cure..... then seal with super glue. They will be more resilient to solvents.

Ambi- removal blues: hate removing ambi safties? Take the right side lever and cut a small notch above and slightly forward of the cross pin location. Make the notch just big enough so you can slip a pocket screwdriver in and to pry it out. When complete the slot will only be barely noticeable.

Grip bushing stuck on grip: you can do this the hard way... pliers... or the neat way.....clean the bushing and frame with alcohol then put a dab of red loc-tite on the bushing threads. Tighten the grip back down on the gun, let sit overnight and slowly/carefully unscrew the grip screw...waalaa!


I'll try to think of more...
 
Mo' Fixes

Atta boy Jeff! Everybody has a few little tricks up their sleeves. Post'em
no matter how lame it might seem. If it's simple and it works, it ain't
lame. I'll bet that right now, there's sombody with a killer idea that won't
come forward with it. He's thinkin': "NAHHHH. Everybody'd laugh."
Just remember the guy who sold 5 million dollars worth of Pet Rocks
about 20 years ago. The sounds of laughter covered the sounds of
his bags of money bein' dragged to the bank.

Jeff...Now that you mention the loose grips...I've used little bitty rubber
O-rings under the screw heads. Works purty good. Forgot that one.

Cast lead shooter with the sewer pipe deposits on your barrel?
Warm the barrel in the oven until it's a little uncomfortable to handle.
Scrub the bore with a dry brush that's about a half-caliber oversized
to score the lead. Scrub with a solvent soaked brush, allow it to
"cook" for a few minutes..patch out and repeat. It comes out much
easier.

Keep'em comin'.

Tuner
 
I just last night discovered that a standard issue M-16 barrel wrench makes a pretty good tool for removing the mainspring. Just lay it flat on the table top / work bench. Turn the MSH upside down, and push it down over the center lug of the wrench. This compresses the mainspring just enough to let you pop out the retaining pin, and doesn't require a 3rd hand.
 
Oil of Wintergreen

Is great for gravers.

A couple of drops on a cotton ball inside an small tin on your bench. This makes "cutting" easier. Slivers "give way" during the cut, dip the graver onyo the cotton ball impregnated, cut again. Helps keeps those old carbon gravers sharp. I mean it REALLY makes cutting stuff easier.

Oil of Wintergreen is useful for other cutting applications as well. I have used it when I was out of Tap Magic ( tm) when a tapping fluid was called for.

Re-cap the tin ,since this stuff evaporates...

Just two more 'old' dealies usually kept secret...very effective and useful to have.

Reminded of this simply because I re-cut the threads on a screw and threaded a blank to make a screw...yep used the wintergreen.
 
Wintergreen

Good tip from sm. I've used it on everything from end mills to drill bits and reamers, too. Cheaper than CoolTool and smells a helluva lot better than
cutting oil.:p

Keep'em comin'! Good stuff on this one.

Tuner
 
Good you added the Wintergreen Steve .. trouble is with the likes of me .. been at stuff so long, ''routine'' useage of various materials seems so unremarkable .... it's forgotten as being anything special.

Now the eraser ... dang .. I HAD forgotten that one completely! Thx.:)
 
"Hole shrinking"

Only done this a few times on a firearm...many times on other stuff...so listen to Tuner, Mr Kennan, Old Fuff, bigjim...anyone but me for experienced advice - please. ;)

This may be dependent on the ability to refinish the metal...

To "shrink" a hole.

Auto -center punch and "punch" around next to the edge. [ Ker-chunk, Ker-chunk...Ker-chunk] . NOT into the hole...next to the holes outside diameter. Insert a flat point in the Auto-center punch and "ker-chunk" those little "impressions" until burnished smooth as can. Now you can use a broach to fit the pin as need. Inside a shotgun reciever I cold blued.

Variations:

I made my own punches to fit the auto center punches. I also had some smaller to "itty -bitty" auto center punches. Pointed, less pointed, rounded, flat, concave...in both steel and brass.

I did a lot of this with same /similar punches and used a variety of hammers...small chasing hammers if you will. tap-tap-tap-tap. Adjusted punches, hammers to task.

Me being me I am prone to start too light and ease up.

Maybe not for the 1911...maybe not most applicable to firearms per se'...handy just the same.

Basic principle is one is moving metal ( working the metal) from the outside diameter area around the hole more towards the hole iteslf.

You do not "kick metal" into the hole...no density , no strength.

Measure the pin for instance and choose appropriate broach. If not used to using broaches...measure smaller than the pin and mark with tape, felt tip...for first timers use tape. One cannot slip and go too big.

Go slow and a snug fit can be obtained. Yes it will last.

If at all possible do this from inside. Example again ...I did this from inside the receiver...exterior was protected by a pc of chamois, and balsa wood, finish was not disturbed.
 
Steve ... hehe .... yet again you are reminding me of stuff!!

Sure, the center punch deal will do good .. all a case of upsetting the metal, to just gain that ''thou'' or so of reduction in I/D ....... this following can help too tho, with less marring ....

Take a 60º lathe center ..... if it's #2 morse that's a good size .. and the tang can take a few blows from a copper hammer with no probs.

Rest this center in the hole to be ''treated'' .. and apply a few quite light taps .... but, important to keep the center as square to hole as possible.

Check with pin at stages ... until pin will just not quite enter. If then pin has the slightest of chamfers .... it should be possible to drive it home with a brass hammer. Of course.... the upset is only local to outer part of hole but ... it is an easy fix for a pin that does not have to go in and out too much.

If the upsetting is overdone then a pass with a suitable reamer will help.
 
Thanks Chris,
I learned something.

I didn't have "shop tools" that big. :D [my 'lathe' was only 14" long and had only 3 speeds...and I had to change the leather ( yes leather) bands to change speeds. ]

I get into enough trouble with small tools...my buddy still has reservations about me using his big tools. I do the small machines, he does the big ones. I do have a project that will require his big lathe...this ought to be good. :p

Yes I used copper, brass and steel. Oh that real hard red rubber hammer was handy.
 
FWIW

....another one, for what it's worth :confused: .......

I like a 'true'd up' impact surface on my guns. I'll turn the barrel upside down, wrap a piece of sandpaper around the hood and 'lapp' away any high spots so the barrel will seat down as flush as possible.

-FWIW-
 
Thanks 1911tuner

Last night I went to replace a dovetailed rear sight on a rifle and the new sight could be pushed all the way through the dovetail with finger pressure. I used your prick punch tip on the bottom surface and then tapped in the new sight nice and snug. If I hadn't read that tip a few days ago, I would still be in a bad mood. Thanks again.
 
Center it Up

Howdy duck, and welcome to The High Road.

Good post and absolutely correct that the barrel should center up with the
firing pin hole. My point was to equalize the point of support between the
lower lug and slidestop pin, which shouldn't be more than .003 inch difference between the height of the 2 sides of the lug. If the barrel isn't
centered up, reducing the high lug to equal the low one likely won't make a
whit of difference in the vertical. lockup, and will probably help the accuracy
to some degree. The main benefit is to prevent overstressing one side of the lug while the other side loafs.

Again...we're talkin' field expedient repairs and adjustments on production guns...not buildin' match-grade pistols.

If you'd like to start a thread on fitting a barrel, by all means, go for it!

Cheers!

Tuner
 
Now Hold the Phone!

What happened to duck's post??? It was here when I replied, and it was here after I replied...It was a good post and had some information on
checkin' and fittin' a barrel.

Duck...If it wouldn't be too much to ask, could ya redo it?

Tuner
 
surface rust on a blued gun? Get a piece of aliminum foil and wad it up. Soak it with oil and scrub the rust spot. It will take the surface rust off, but will not damage the finish as the finish has a higher tensile strength then the foil. Wipe aluminum residue off of gun, touch up with cold blueing if nessisary, enjoy.
 
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