1911 safety

[wildcat_1950]

I installed a stainless Ed Brown grip safety on my SA 1911. Functioned correctly for approx. 1000 rounds.
At some point, the trigger began to fall when grip safety was not depressed.
Wanting to get away from stainless, I bought another Ed Brown, this time in blue. New safety, no fitting, and the hammer will still fall with the grip safety not depressed.
Installed my OEM spur hammer and grip safety, trigger still falls as described above.
Looking for advice. Do I need to adjust my trigger or is the problem elsewhere?
Thanks in advance.

 

[mdThanatos]

Have you compared the two grip safeties to see if they are showing any signs of wear, I doubt this is the issue but a thought. I was reading another topic from a few years ago that suggested something about the sear spring may be worn, might want to take a look?

 

[1911Tuner]

Do this:

Cock the hammer and place your off-hand thumb under the grip safety tang. Apply light upward force on the tang and pull the trigger. If the hammer doesn't fall, a little tweak on the right leg of the sear spring will probably take care of it.

 

[wildcat_1950]

Thanks guys. There is no signs of ware on any of the three safety arms. The sear spring is functioning correctly to the best of my knowledge (I bent it a little any way). When lifting up on the tang, trigger pull requires slightly more pressure to drop the hammer. I can feel the back of the trigger block contact the safety arm just before the hammer falls.

 

[1911Tuner]

You may be able to lightly file the "feet" that contact the mainspring housing and give the safety a little more travel. Sometimes there's a tolerance stack between the two parts that keeps it from kicking out enough at the bottom. If that doesn't do the trick...time for a new safety.

 

[wildcat_1950]

1911 safety; problem solved!

last post on this topic. the actual problem was the back of the trigger block was not coming into full contact with the grip safety arm before the trigger released the sear.

this is solved by using a punch to create a dimple on the back side of the trigger block that will contact the grip safety arm when the safety is not depressed.

thanks for the help.

 

[1911Tuner]

That'll work' too. Also known as an "Expedient Field Repair" and the punch is a much better way to do it than the old method of peening the lug to displace material forward. I punch both sides to keep the safety from twisting sideways.

To whom it may concern:

Note that this adjustment isn't well-suited fur use with the thinned lug on Series 80-type grip safeties.

Normally, it's best to get the safety to kick out a little farther at the bottom first, and if that doesn't take care of it...then bring out the punch.

Did the trigger and safety pass the reset test? Both reset at the same time when the trigger is released? Sometimes they don't after punching the lug, and it requires a little tweakin'.

 

[wildcat_1950]

looks like all is well. the trigger and safety resets just dandy.
i read about peening the safety, but you are the first (that i've seen) to mention this other method.

hope this tread helps someone.
thanks again.

 

[1911Tuner]

I've been using a center punch to stretch grip safety lugs since Hector was a pup. I normally only do it on grip safeties that are original or correct to a collectible pistol, to preserve the originality...or when I want to avoid a mismatched finish on a gun that will be mostly carried and shot occasionally. For pistols that'll be used hard and often, I prefer to use either a new safety, or one that's in the used/spare parts box. Very often, just trying a different part will do the trick.

If you use the gun a lot, be sure to perform a function check on the grip safety periodically.