1911 Two Piece Guide Rod

[gharsh]

I have a Springfield Loaded 1911 that has a two piece guide rod. I also have the Milspec 1911 that doesn't. What is the difference? I would like to switch to something that does not require the use of an allen wrench to take the pistol apart. Can I just switch out the rod and use a different spring cap or will that interfere with the performance of the pistol, which has been excellent? Has anyone else tried this modification?

I think there is a reason for the longer guide rod, but I don't know what.

Thanks.

 

[Sean Smith]

You can switch rods and plugs all you like, won't make a lick of functional difference one way or the other.

 

[45auto]

You can buy the standard recoil spring guide and plug and replace the extended rod. Use the same spring and no problems. It will work fine either way. You can also buy an extended one piece rod if you wish.

The full length rod is a greatly debated part for the 1911. Some people feel it "smooths" out the cycling of the 1911 while others feel it does nothing but make takedown more difficult.

The only undisputed fact is that it does add a bit of weight to gun. If you notice the difference and like it...keep it in. If not, pitch it if it bothers you.

 

[Ed]

The 2 piece guide rod is the only thing that I replaced on my Springfield. I put in a Wilson 1 piece and Love it. The 2 piece Springfield guide rod was a piece as far as I'm concerned. Every time I would fire the gun, the thing would unscrew itself. It may have been the exception, but for me the change worked wonders. I would seriously have to tighten it after every 20 rounds or so.

 

[George Hill]

I swapped the 2 part rod out of my gun and used a regular GI set.
No functional difference, but it was easier to live with.

 

[denfoote]

I changed out the full length guide rod in my Loaded. There was no difference in accuracy!! It was a pain in the you know where anyway!!

 

[1911Tuner]

2-Piece GR Fix

if you want to keep the FLGR...they do tend to keep the slide runnin'
straight on a worn pistol...flush the threads well with brake cleaner
pr Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber.(Same thing BTW, except BC is
three times the price of brake cleaner) Mix up a dab of 24-hour epoxy
or JB Weld and coat the threads. Screw it together and wait for the full
cure time. Chuck the GR in a lathe and face off .150-.155 inch from the
front end. Presto! One-piece guide rod that doesn't unscrew and doesn't
need a wrench.

Another trick is to thin the head from the backside by about .040 and a like amount from the butt end. Then remove .110 from the front. That will
make up .025 inch of lost travel when a buffer is in place. I use a FLGR
modified like that for heavy-use range beaters that won't act right with
a standard rod head thickness with a buffer. Works purty good. Use
a good-quality guide rod. The head will deform on cheap ones.

Cheers!
Tuner

 

[gharsh]

I think I'm going to try and get a stubby rob and plug this weekend at the gun show and see what I think of the change. I'm glad to know that it will not change the function of the gun. The extra weight can't be that big of a difference because the weight of the rod is not that much. I've shot both guns, one with and one without, and I can't tell much difference. The only real difference is that the Milspec pistol is much heavier than the Loaded and the Loaded one has the screw in guide rod. Go figure.