284 Win in an 03 Action

[CRM284]

Hi guys.
I have an 03 made by Remington, Barreled action that was sporterized by grandfather in the original 30-06 chambering. Serial number is in the 3millions. The barrel is marked with a date of 03/1942 at the very front right where the front site was cut off. It was then passed down to my uncle, and then to me. The barrel is shot out on it. In it's time it was holding sub 1" groups scoped. Now it barely hits a paper plate. I'd like to rebarrel this gun in 284 Win. I've read so many posts on here about doing the 284 in all types of action except the 03. I'm going to ER Shaw do the work. I handload and I like things that aren't the norm. I've read the best way to go to be able to shoot the long for caliber 7mm bullets is to gi with the long action. This is going to be a dual purpose gun 25-26 inch barrel with a heavy sporter barrel. It'll be a deer/black bear and possible elk gun, but id also like to be able to shoot local matches with it. But just to have fun. My main goal is to use it as a long range deer gun. I've heard and read stories of the rebated 284 not feeding correctly is some actions. Has anyone done a rebated rim case build on an 03 that would have any experience with this?

I know I'm going to hear all kinds of stuff about the 280, and 280AI, but I'm pretty dead set on the 284.

One last question is should I ask for any freebore. I understand it going on a long action and can set the 160gr+ bullets out far enough in the magazine, but will I need more freebore to accommodate that.?

If the 284 is ruled out because of my action, 338-06 is a possible backup. But my hope for my first custom is to be a 284. The action has been professionally worked and is super smooth. It also has a very nice Timiney installed. It's also drilled and tapped and still has what look to be Warne bases. I appreciate all the feedback, but as i first mentioned my main concern is feeding issue.

In another forum a member mentioned pressure issues. But I've read in Hatcher's Notes that the "newer 03 actions" were proof tested at 125k psi. So I shouldn't have pressure issues. My main concern is that darn rebated rim in the 03.

Thanks in advance.
Craig

 

[natman]

First, before you decide the original barrel is shot out, give it a GOOD cleaning. If that doesn't work, I'd advocate having JES reboring turning it into a 338-06 or 35 Whelen. Much cheaper and easier than rebarreling. If you must go 7mm, let me be the first to advocate 280 / 280 AI for the same ballistics and no feeding issues. Finally, how long do you think 284 Win brass is going to be available? Good luck making it out of something else.

 

[boom boom]

On the .284 Conversion, since you are going to have Shaw do the work, I would simply call them up and ask them and get quotes on the expected price to do all that. To have a reliable and accurate safe hunting rifle, you are going to have to have a skilled gunsmith do the work and that will cost quite a bit more than using a new barrel on a Savage or other current sporting rifles. Skilled labor costs money.

Obviously you will need a new custom barrel and not off the shelf because the Springfield has square threads on the barrel shank instead of v-threads. The bolt should be ok. You may or may not need a new stock.

The other difference is that the .284 is a shorter cartridge than the .30-06 and that might require tweaking the feedlips of the receiver and blocking the rear of the magazine for reliable feeding or it might not. The .284 has a thinner rim so you might also have to tweak the extractor for use.

Now, the caveat is that you might spend all this money and still have a rifle that actually shoots worse than what you have now. Shaw makes good barrels and I haven't seen a lot of complaints about their gunsmiths. But, given that the design is over 100 years old, and a lot of the old gunsmith lore to accurizing them as sporters has vanished in time, you might want to see what kind of reliability and accuracy guarantee that Shaw is willing to provide (or some other gunsmith) before shelling out a bunch of cash.

If you are feeling undecided, ask them their opinion, after all they have dealt with a lot of rifles over the years and seen what works and what doesn't. They may also have heard the complaints about what doesn't work. So ask them, what they might do--you don't have to take their advice but you know at least it is a professional opinion versus the internetz.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I do sorta like "natman's" suggestion concerning the .280 Remington round, or going a step further and chambering to the .280 Ackley Improved, which will then require "fire-forming" brass to a sharper shoulder angle.
I rebarreled a Winchester Model 70 Long Action from .308 Winchester to the .280 Remington, and it turned out to be a very accurate decision.

 

[troy fairweather]

He last custom 03 I had was a 358nm done by John.w.van patten. He was known for being ackleys shop Forman and worked with him at the collage. He was well know for reboring witch mine was, old gun books has him referenced in the back.

Back in topic, like the others a 280 or 280ai would be much easier, I've seen some guns feed 284 without doing anything, some just may need a different follower but some need rail work. Most 280ai will shot factory 280rem very good.

 

[LoonWulf]

I'll second the suggestions to contact Shaw and see what they think. I've used them more than once and been very satisfied with all the work done.
Just having them do the barrel should be 350-450 depending on CM or stainless, any modifications to the action, feed rails or follower will add cost to that.

I've done two, 284 based builds. Both were on Arisakas tho. One feeds rounds very well, the other wouldn't feed worth crap. the x58 is similar in shape to the 06 and the Ari is similar in design and function. I f you simply have the barrel Installed, I'd be ready to do some work to get the fater, straighter rounds to feed.

 

[CRM284]

Appreciate all the replies guys. Just been a pretty crazy week with all this virus stuff.

So, I decided to get off that 284 Win idea. Started looking at all my reloading manuals and I think the smart route, as mentioned, is the 280ai. But I've got other issues now. Gave the gun a good cleaning as mentioned in preparation to shoot this thing just to verify my uncle's conclusion that it wouldn't shoot anymore. And man was it dirty. Anyhow I took the bolt apart, cleaned it,and reinstalled. I don't like letting the gun set with the firing spring compressed, so I dry fired it. The BOLT GOT STUCK!! I dry fired it before with no issues. The bolt lifts about halfway through the cam, and stops. It doesn't matter how hard I yank, it won't cam open. I fiddled and fiddled,and it finally opened. I again took the bolt apart to make sure there weren't any obstructions inside the bolt. It was clean. This time I completely tore the safety apart. I inserted the bolt naked without the firing pin/spring, safety, ect, and it's smooth as silk. It's late so it's sitting like that until morning. I've read that there can be trigger issues when this happens, I'm not certain as I've never had issues before. I'm going to keep putting the bolt back together piece by piece, as I try running the bolt. BUT, AS I MENTIONED, the only time I have issues is after a dryfire.

If anyone has had this happen before, please feel free to chime in. I may start a new thread pertaining to this, as this thread may not be looked at as much.
Thanks a million
Craig

 

[troy fairweather]

There could be 101 reasons for the problem, hard to help without the gun in hand. I have seen were a burr can happen in the bolt body. A friend of mine used to repair a 03 for a guy every year or so. His dad was one of them wwii vets that would watch war movies and pretend to shoot the japs and Germans.

I thought this was just a stereotype guys made up lol.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Does it have a Timney trigger? If so go to their website and look at the pdf manuals for installation instructions.

 

[entropy]

Resolved in his other post.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Thanks, thought that sounded familiar!