I thought a read somewhere about turning 303. British shells into full brass .410 shells? I would like to make something like the full steel cased russian .410 ammo but that is re loadable. Does anyone have an experience with loading these and know if they are able to be loader a little stronger or if they last longer,OAL, crimping, ect.?
.410 full brass shells
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jim147
Member
Magtech makes new .410 brass.
EddieCoyle
Member
When loading these, how do you cap the end?
ETA: If you want shorter shells, you can use S&W .460 brass.
ETA: If you want shorter shells, you can use S&W .460 brass.
NCsmitty
Member
Some glue an over-shot wad in place. Some put a small crimp to hold the wad, similar to a crimp used to hold a bullet in place.
NCsmitty
NCsmitty
627PCFan
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MMCSRET
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I use 444 Marlin cases in my s/s and double guns.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
.303 brit probably is thicker.
But you don't need or want them thicker.
The inside tapered walls of a bottle-neck rifle case would make getting proper over-powder wad fit kind of iffy.
Brass shotgun shells have the same wall thickness all the way down so the wad can seal against them.
rcmodel
But you don't need or want them thicker.
The inside tapered walls of a bottle-neck rifle case would make getting proper over-powder wad fit kind of iffy.
Brass shotgun shells have the same wall thickness all the way down so the wad can seal against them.
rcmodel
If i could use .460S&W shells and they have revolvers that shoot .45LC and .410 shouldn't you be able to shoot .45LC,.454,and .460S&W threw a sturdy .410 ? Or at least reload them all as .410 short, shorter,and shortest. Have to look into the .444 Marlin brass also.
Buying the cases from any of the previously mentioned companies or www.ballisticproducts.com is a lot easier than thinning the thickness of the rim and then fire forming the .303 British cases and then ending up with bulgy cases because they are so thick and the base of the case doesn't expand. .444 Marlin is a little easier , but if you have to buy the cases anyway buy the proper ones, it is so much easier. Now if you are unable to acquire anything else, then improvise and use, .303 British or .444 Marlin or anything else that fits the chamber, then fire form and load.
adam38654 said:
Under no circumstances should you ever try to fire any of those rounds through a .410 shotgun, EVER!
It will almost certainly result in horrible disfigurement, amputation of hands and arms, and possibly a very painful death.
I checked the bore of my .410 once and it wound up being .376 at the choke. That means if I took a .45 Colt and tried to fire it through my gun, I'd trying to swage a .452 inch bullet down to .376 as it was traveling 900 or so FPS down the bore.
It would probably turn my little H&R into a pipe bomb.
Add in that shotguns aren't made to handle the pressure generated by anything other than shotshells - shotshells work at pretty low pressures. New England Firearms won't fit rifle caliber barrels to shotgun frames for this reason.
If I were loading mine, I'd try a single .375 round ball. But you'd have to check your bore to find out what size projectile you'd need.
The only reason that some guns can fire .45 Colt and .410 is because they are a .45 caliber bore the whole way through. Guns like the T/C contender use a screw in choke to take the spin out of the wadding and give a decent pattern. Other guns like the .45/.410 derringers are the same thing without the choke.
Basically, with a little caution just about anything that will contain the powder and shot in the chamber safely and allow for ignition will probably work as a casing. I've seen .45 LC, .444, and .44-40 used to load smaller shot loads for the .410. But if I were looking to start loading it, I'd just pony up the $ and buy a few boxes of brass shotshells.
EddieCoyle
Member
Not to pile on, but even if the bullets will fit out the end of your barrel, the SAAMI max for the 410 is 13,500 PSI and the .460 Magnum (although not SAAMI rated) is more like 65,000.
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