.44 Navy Cyl. the same as a .44 Army Cyl.?

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catfish33

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Are the Cylinders from a 1851 .44 Navy Revolver (Pietta) the same as the .44 1860 Army (Pietta)? Just trying to understand why the 5 shot conversion is offered for the 1860 army and not for the 1851 Navy. Thanks in advance.
 
catfish33 said:
Are the Cylinders from a 1851 .44 Navy Revolver (Pietta) the same as the .44 1860 Army (Pietta)?

Catfish: regretably I cannot answer yoru question but I would URGE extreme caution with interchanging cylinders for any revolver as they are cut to extreme tolerances by factory for a reason: to align perfectly with forcing cone of barrel... a little out of line will not only result in a gas leak but an explosion upon firing. I had this happen once with a cheap single action that had its cylinder swapped out wthout my knowledge. I use only cylinder that came with weapon for either percussion and regular handguns. Dangerous otherwise! Be careful.
 
The 1851 navy in .44 is a modern invention. Navy's were originally all .36s, but someone had the bright idea to stick the grip frame on a .44. I don't know if you can convert a .44 navy safely.

UPDATE: I don't know that the grip frame is all that they changed to make a .44 "navy". So don't take that as gospel. The may have relieved the frame and done all sorts of stuff to make the .44 cylinder fit.

I'd call the converter people, either R&D or Kirst, they'd have some understanding about what is safe and what isn't.
 
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The cylinders are more or less identical when the guns (and/or cylinders) come from the same maker.

The 1860 cylinder was "rebated." In other words it is stepped in the middle with the front part being larger then the back. The original 1860 Army was built on a modified Navy frame, so the replica-builders took an 1860 frame and fitted a Navy sized backstrap and trigger guard to it. Next they made some .44 barrels on the Navy pattern. To all of this they added a .44 1860 cylinder.

Colt never made such a gun, but some folks like them.
 
OK thanks Old Fuff. The cylinder on my .44 Navy is rebated also that is why I figured the cylinders were the same. My next question would be is there any reason the conversion for the 1860 Army wouldn't work on my 1851 Navy? Thanks in advance.
 
I'm not sure which way you want to go ... :confused:

Do you propose to make the .44 Navy (so-called) into an 1860 Army, or a .36 1851 Navy?

To do either might involve some fitting maybe followed by refinishing, and in any case you have to be sure the conversion parts, particularly barrels and cylinders were made by the same company that made the revolver. This is not one of those "drop-in" parts sort of thing unless you get very lucky.
 
No I am looking at the .45LC conversion kit. Convert from black powder to a .45LC shell. They offer it for the 1860 Army but there is no listing for the .44 Navy. If the cylinders are the same I should just be able to swap in the conversion cylinder and be done with it. That way I could convert back to BP or Shells.
 
First of all, slug your barrel and be sure the bore is at least .452"; then be sure the conversion cylinder is made to fit your particular brand of revolver.

Last of all, do not make this conversion on a brass-framed revolver, and it would be advisable to use black powder handloads. The gun was not proofed for smokeless powder. As a general rule the Remington 1858 clones are a better choice for this, and the best one is Ruger's Old Army.

Keep in mind that the original cap & ball-to-cartridge conversions were chambered in .44 Colt, not .45 Colt.
 
Yeah I realize that you don't want to use the brass frame. I have the steel frame model and I am looking at a R&D Pietta 1860 Army conversion to use on this particular gun. The balls I use in the revolver now are .454. I have no concern about the barrel being large enoough. But you make a very valid point. I will run one down tonight and check it. Thanks for your help. :)
 
The balls are oversized and designed to be swaged down in the chamber, so they may end up as small as .450". The bore in turn may be as small as .446" and you propose to drive a .452"/250 grain bullet through it when the barrel is only held on by a key going through a slot in the front of the basepin.

Don't spend any money until you get all of this checked out ... :scrutiny:
 
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