.45 ACP Colt Gold Cup ejection problem.

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Picher

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I have a very fine Gold Cup that often kicks a case back at my head. I've tried altering the extractor to hold the cases more firmly, but that hasn't been very reliable. I'm wondering whether the ejector may be part of the problem.

There are several different extractor models out there, so what is the best source for parts? I assume that I could take the extractor out and make a photocopy of it to find the proper replacement.

Picher
 
Series 70 or Series 80? A Series 80 will work in a Series 70, but not the other way around. The best extractor on the market for dimensional correctness are the EGW, Wilson, and Harrison. A significant issue with most factory extractors is incorrect hook to breech face dimension. For 45 ACP the correct dimension is .075"-.085" with closer to .075" better. Many factory guns from any manufacturer come with hooks out to .095" or greater. Do they work? Sometimes, if a lot of other factors allow it, but never as they should. Harrison offers one that you can cut the firing pin stop slot to precisely position the hook. Other important factors are deflection and tension with deflection being the more important factor. Edit - <You want about .010" deflection.> Extractor hook shape and condition are equally important. A chip, incorrect angle, etc can wreak havok with extraction/ejection.
This thread gives a pretty darned good tutorial of extractor fitting - https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=829865

The firing pin stop can be loose, allowing the extractor to float front to back and/or clock (rotate) in the tunnel, affecting control of the case. Oversize stops are available and are easily fit to prevent clocking and help position the hook to breech face dimension.

The Ejector can certainly have an effect. Length, nose angle, height, condition, pinned solidly in place or loose....

Anther factor is the slide itself, specifically the breech face cut. ON the ejector side (left) there is a curved cut the looks like an inverted "J". That curve at the top is sometimes over cut, allowing the cartridge to move up too high on the breech face. Not a factor while the gun is in battery, but it can come into play on ejection if there are any other factors in play, like a too short (in height) ejector.

All fixable by a GOOD 1911 smith or a skilled, knowledgeable enthusiast, but easily missed by the average smith. I recommend that you download a copy of the blueprints and check your gun dimensions - https://brlcad.org/design/drafting/M1911-A1_REDUX.pdf You may question the recommendation for fitting oversized parts if the plans show that a particular dimension is in spec. A well fitted gun with reduced tolerances in certain areas runs ever so much better than an off the shelf gun. The Gold Cup is really that, off the shelf, with a few little tweaks for accuracy and appearance. It can be so much better with little expenditure of money and time.

Edit - Another check that goes hand in hand with the above. With the slide in hand, slip a round up the breech face under the extractor as far as it will go and note how much of the rim covers the ejector slot. More is better. Also note how well the ejector fill that slot with the slide on the frame. I seriously doubt that this is of significance in your particular problem, but worth checking while you are at it.
 
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My Gold Cup came with a lighter than normal recoil spring. It was decades ago so I don’t remember exactly what it came with but you might try reduced loads or a heavier spring.

Other than that, the ejector would be my focus vs the extractor, as far as changing the trajectory of the case leaving the slide.

There is a substantial difference between the ejector on my goldcup.

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and other 45 ACP 1911’s I have.

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Found this.

0D1A48AA-2148-4BEB-B917-FE16F84BD69E.jpeg

Looking at the angles, it makes sense what one would be chunking them onto the bill of my hat or further out to the side.
 
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A quick easy change is a square bottom firing pin stop. Its changes the timing, and reduces recoil. Also improves reliability, and increases spring life. Down side is the great increase in hand cycling. Going from a beveled to a flat in my Springfield actually increased brass in the face, but may have the opposite effect for you. Either way, its easily undone, unlike a new ejector. My 9mm 1911 throws brass in the face badly with moderate loads. Heavy loads never do. Maybe load changes are an option for you?
 
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