6.5x55 reloading

[Bsmall]

Hi All,
I am starting to do some reloading, I would like some help. In reloading 6.5x55 should I start with a (lee loader) and what kind of brass,primers,powder and heads should I start out with. I am reading the lyman book, but would like more help
Thank you all for the help bsmall

 

[oneounceload]

When I had my 6.5, I like using Norma brass with Sierra bullets. The 120 gave me my best accuracy, but the 140 was deadly on deer-size game for as far as I am comfortable shooting. Medium powder like 4064 and 3031 gave me good results

 

[shadow9]

With all respect, that Lyman book will answer your questions. Also look for "ABC's of Reloading" - it's available at most bookstores. The rest of the question regarding loads/primers/brass - not to "cop-out", but that's really up to you and your rifle - it's a big reason we hand load in the first place. What types of which items is either dictated under the "6.5x55 Swedish" loads in your lyman book, or shown for other brands in other books. Also check out the Hodgdon website (also handles IMR and Winchester powders/various bullets), Accurate Arms and Alliant Powders. All their websites have free load information - but remember to NEVER go above their listed Max, and (especially starting out), DON'T mix components around.

Also, with 6.5x55 specifically, there are TWO types of loads - Commercial and Military. If you own a Milsurp Mauser (M96, M94, M38, etc) or a Krag 6.5x55, keep it to Military loads ONLY. Be even more wary if you have a Krag action - they aren't as strong as a Mauser action, so you may be even more limited to your "max" loads. AS always - Your Rifle, not The book, will dictate what the "max load" is. Some rifles show pressure/max signs before the book indicates a max load - go with your rifle's opinion on the matter.

In short, the Lee Loader isn't bad to do the most basic steps of reloading - but there's no way to really be 100% sure of your powder charges (which are a good portion of getting good accuracy) and there's no way to maintain your brass as you go along. The Scale for measuring powder charges should be mandatory, and it would be wise to invest in brass prepping/cleaning items as well. Not to mention, the Lee Loader only sizes the neck - eventually you'll want to resize the whole body, and that needs a press and dies.

So, if you want very limited and simple, go for the Lee Loader. But to do reloading RIGHT, it's quite an investment. YMMV.

 

[NWcityguy2]

Generic reloading advice misses the mark when it comes to 6.5x55mm. For starters you want to avoid american made brass. Remington, Federal, Winchester... Don't use any of it for reloading. The brass is not made to the correct dimensions. Observe the difference this post: http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=8614577&postcount=2

PPU and S&B are good. Norma and Lapua are great. I shoot regular pressure loads in Norma brass that show no pressure signs but will pop the primers on Federal brass.

Alliant publishes commercial and military loads. Ramshot/Accurate and Hodgdon do not. Hodgdon loads aren't that watered down in my opinion. Almost everyone has good results when shooting 140 grain bullets over Reloder 22. I have since switched to 7828 because of availability and get good results with it as well.

Bullet selection is less than usual as many 6.5mm bullets are low demand. http://www.gunbot.net/reloading/bullets/65mm/ is a good search engine for what is in stock.

 

[Kernel]

Bsmall,

6.5x55 is a great cartridge and one of the first I ever reloaded for after I bought a surplus Swedish Mauser back in the late '80's (IIRC). It likes a slower powder. I'd recommend 4831, Reloader 19, or Hunter. Any large rifle primer will be good. I'd stick to a name brand and buy those on price.

Rather than a Lee Loader, you'd be way ahead to start with a real press and standard dies. The presses shown below are about $30 and will load ammo has good as any press. Natchez Shooter Supply has pretty good prices on all kinds of reloading stuff.

http://www.natchezss.com/

Lee Reloader Press:

Lee Hand Press:

 

[Vacek]

I used a Lee Loader for a couple of years for my Swede Mauser. Worked great as long as the brass was from the rifle I was reloading for. I used IMR4350. I sold the rifle (way to cheaply) to my nephew as he wanted start deer hunting. Hey, I kept the rifle in the family.

Along with the rifle I included 20 rounds of those handloads. He checked the sight-in on the scope with a couple of shots then took a deer at >120 yards. It dropped in its tracks. The bullet was the Hornady 140 grain SST. I told him that his first deer came way to easy.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Here's a tip -- many 6.5 bullets have two cannelures. If you're reloading for a Swede, try seating the bullet so the LOWER cannelure is flush with the case mouth. Those Swedes are long-throated and shoot better with the bullet closer to the lede.

 

[41 Mag]

Those Swedes are long-throated and shoot better with the bullet closer to the lede.

That ain't no bull there. My daughters will take a 140gr A-Max standing unseated on the lip of the case, with the bolt closed, and still don't touch the lands.

I'll say this though, the most accurate ammo we have ever shot through it was Privi 139gr Soft Points. Three shooters, myself, my daughter, and my oldest grandson at the time 9yrs old, all 3 shots each round robin, put 9 rounds into less than a 1" group at 100yds.

Some say the brass isn't any count for reloading, but that $11 per box ammo put the $40 per box ammo to shame. Like mentioned in the link posted above, the cases are larger and actually FIT the bolt face where Rem, Win, and Federal don't. It does make a difference.

 

[viking499]

Hi All,
I am starting to do some reloading, I would like some help. In reloading 6.5x55 should I start with a (lee loader) and what kind of brass,primers,powder and heads should I start out with. I am reading the lyman book, but would like more help
Thank you all for the help bsmall

What gun are you shooting?

 

[Slamfire]

I am going to assume that your rifle is a Swedish Surplus, which is just at the load levels I developed.

I first shot Swedish ball for a velocity comparison. Yes, velocity is not the same as pressure, but I do believe that if my bullets are clocking faster, than the pressures are higher. I consider my load a ball equivalent.

I am of the opinion that any of the 4350 series of powders are just great in this cartridge. Take your pick of AA4350, IMR 4350 and H4350. They are all the same and all a little different. Lot to lot variences are more significant than the brand, so buy by price.

M1896 Infantry Rifle 29' barrel Carl Gustafs mfgr 1903

17-Aug-06 T = 85 °F
143 gr FMJ 1986 Swedish Ball

Ave Vel = 2610
Std Dev = 14.38
ES = 45.59
High = 2633
Low = 2587
N = 8



M38 Infantry Carbine 24" barrel
28-Oct-94 T ≈ 60 °F

143 gr 1986 Swedish Ball OAL 3.065" 47.4 grs powder average

Ave Vel = 2427
Std Dev = 22
ES = 62
Low = 2395
High = 2457
N = 10


M700 22" Barrel

143 gr Swedish Ball 1986 headstamp

2 Feb 2008 T = 54 °F

Ave Vel = 2470
Std Dev = 18
ES = 48
High = 2491
Low = 2443
N = 5

140 gr Hornday Spire Point 43.0 grs AA4350
R-P new brass CCI-200 OAL 2.990"

2 Feb 2008 T = 52 °F

Ave Vel = 2512
Std Dev = 27
ES = 72
High = 2547
Low = 2475
N = 5

M70 Featherweight 22" Barrel

140 gr Hornady Spire Point 43.0 grs AA4350
R-P new brass CCI-200 OAL 2.990"

18 Nov 2007 T = 75 °F

Ave Vel = 2428
Std Dev = 29
ES = 95
High = 2480
Low = 2385
N = 24

easy bolt life,nice rounded primers