7.62x54R Light Ball

[Dave Markowitz]

I'm looking to order a supply of 7.62x54R Light Ball to feed my Mosins. Primary use will be paper punching but my M-Ns are part of my backup SHTF armory.

Currently, AIM Surplus has Hungarian, Polish, and Czech flavors. The Czech is steel core while AIM's site doesn't specify whether the Hungarian or Polish ammo is lead or steel.

I don't want heavy ball ammo, it kicks too hard for my taste.

I know that they are all corrosive. It's not a big deal.

Is there any reason to pick one of these over the other? Or not pick one?

TIA.

 

[BillinNH]

Personally, I would just go by price.

Bill

 

[Langenator]

I'd say get some of each, and find out what each of your rifles likes best.

 

[KrankyKraut]

I have tried the Polish and Czech light ball, and on balance I prefer the Polish. That's only due to the fact that the Czech is laquer coated, and it causes sticky bolt in my Mosins. Otherwise, the Czech is fine. It is my understanding that the Polish is also steel core, even though it does not have a silver tip.

 

[MikeH]

I shoot Polish light ball on my M38. Reasonably accurate and relatively less recoil. Only gripe is that about 10% to 20% would develop cracks on the casing neck. I've heard that'll contribute to throat corrosion in the long run.

 

[benEzra]

Wolf also makes new-manufacture noncorrosive 7.62x54 in 148-gr loads, but I'm not sure how the relative price would shake out.

 

[jonnyc]

Of all those, Hungarian has been most accurate in my M44 and M38.

 

[Kramer Krazy]

the fact that the Czech is laquer coated, and it causes sticky bolt in my Mosins.

Don't remind me of this. The last time Missashot and I took our Mosins to the range, my right palm was sore from having to smack the bolt loose. When clean, you'd swear the bolt was beyond any tolerance spec as it just seems to wiggle and jiggle......add some of that Czech surplus, and you'd swear someone was tack-welding the bolt to the receiver between shots. The hotter the guns got, though, the easier it was to open the bolts.....so we just shot them without letting them cool off much between rounds.

 

[George S.]

FWIW, Winchester and S&B also make a 180gr soft-point round in 7.62x54R for hunting. They are about the same price as the Wolf non-corrosive ammo $7-$8 a box. You might want to buy some over a period of time and save the cases for reloading in a lighter target load.

I have had some Polish cases split at the neck but otherwise either the Polish or the Czech 148gr silvertip is decent target or range ammo and pretty cheap in the large spam cans.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Thanks guys. I think I'll try the Hungarian based on the above comments on its accuracy and the fact that nobody mentioned split necks with it. It's only a couple dollars more per can than the Polish.

Winchester 7.62x54R is actually made by S&B, BTW.

I have mixed feelings about the Wolf polymer coating. On one hand, it doesn't leave any gummy residue behind. On the other, it definitely provides less corrosion protection for the steel cases, based on some 7.62x39 that I have.

 

[Shrinkmd]

Split neck worry?

I have also had some split neck problems, maybe 5% last time I was out. Is this a big worry over time, or more of an annoyance. The polish ammo doesn't stick at all and is fun to shoot. I guess if you wear out a Mosin after a couple thousand rounds you just get another?

 

[GD]

Split necks after firing are a common occurance with steel cases. It is not a problem to worry about. You should still examine cases before firing for any signs of splitting and discard any that are split. Mosins will not wear out after a few thousand rounds are fired. These are hardy rifles and should last for tens of thousands of rounds.
The only heavy ball surplus ammo that is currently being sold AFAIK, is the yellow tipped Hungarian. Everything else is light ball, with lead encased steel core bullets.

 

[Ad Astra]

sticky bolt workaround

Working my way through a case of the Polish- cleaner and more accurate than you'd think. Some split necks but I know it's not the rifle/headspace.

I shoot M39's, M44, M38 and a laminated hex Tula 91/30, and I've come across the sticky M-N bolt thing. Here's a simple workaround: Cock the cocking knob BEFORE you open the bolt.

When somebody hurts their hand banging the bolt open, uses a block of wood to pound it open, etc. that can't be right- not good for gun, bolt or hand.

I fired 60-80 rounds of 7.62x54r fairly rapidly last Sun. (M39), keeping up shot for shot with an SKS shooter- informal 50 yd. scored target practice.

When the gun gets hot and the bolt is starting to be sticking, I fire a round, cock the piece, and open the bolt. Case ejects. Much less resistance.

Doesn't everybody do this?

 

[Davo]

Ive heard the short rifles favor the lighter loads, and vice versa. I consider reliability and ease of fxn to be even more important than accuracy. They are not really target rifles. The czeck silver tip is known to be fairly accurate, and dosent stick in my mosin, but it can in some. I have cleaned and polished the chamber well though, as it is a SHTF weapon for me too. I recommend the hungarian 180 grain (heavy ball, I realize), and the wolf 150 grain (not corrosive, I know). I also recommend you get a few boxes of reloadable, as that may one day be valueable.
One more thing...shoot your rifles! Sight them in, practice from all positions, know what 500 yards looks like.
Im believe that the bird flu will not be a big deal, but I must admit it is a much more credible threat than other problems out there.