9x19 equivilant?

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

Pierce

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Messages
29
Location
Middle Tennessee
I'm considering a Glock 34 in 9x19 and it will be the first 9mm I have owned. I see many different descriptions in 9mm. Where does the 9x19 fall in line. When looking for brass in Midway I saw nothing described as such. What would I use?

2nd question. I have cast .45 bullets for my 1911's but I have heard that lead shouldn't be shot in a Glock barrel as it will ruin the rifling? Is this fact or urban legend?

Id like to cast bullets for the Glock.
 
If you want to shoot plain lead bullets, you'll need a regular rifled barrel for your pistol then. Glocks use polygonal rifling, which over time will cause lead to build up, then KABOOM! Check out Lone Wolf barrels, they're the biggest source I know of. http://www.lonewolfdist.com/products.aspx?CAT=4
Good luck!
 
I've heard some people prefer cast bullets sized to .358 for a Glock (stock barrel). I shoot an unsized ~.356-7". And yeah, they do leave a good bit of lead in the barrel.

Following convention, a 9mm should traditionally shoot a .355 jacketed or .356 cast. But there is a lot of variation in actual bore size in 9mm handguns. Some are as big as .358". The Glock barrel isn't known to be oversized, but the freebore and chambers are huge, and the start of the rifling is very gradual.
 
Last edited:
Great feedback. I'm a clean after firing sessions believer and can't imagine going so long as to lead foul a barrel. It would be good to have a 2nd barrel for backyard shooting though.

Thank's ya'll
 
As far as I know, Glock advises against using bare lead in their polygonal barrels. It is not an 'urban legend'. I suspect that official Glock advisory helped create the aftermarket Glock barrel industry that Lone Wolf leads?

You will rarely go wrong following manufacturer's instructions IMHO. I have no particular horse in this race as Glocks are not a good fit to my hand, and my fav local indoor ranges prohibit bare lead reloads anyway, so all I use are plated and FMJ.
 
The problem is mainly with lead in the chamber rather than the rifling as the cause of Kabooms. The lead build up in the chamber does not allow the cartridge to fully seat and it is then fired out of battery causing the issue.

If you regularly clean the lead out you will be fine. From what I understand the 9mm's have the lowest rate of it anyway, not near as common as in the .45's.
 
I'm considering a Glock 34 in 9x19 and it will be the first 9mm I have owned. I see many different descriptions in 9mm. Where does the 9x19 fall in line. When looking for brass in Midway I saw nothing described as such. What would I use?
Click to expand...

Are you talking about physical size or ballistics.
Physically, the 9x19 case is in between the 380 Auto and the 40 S&W.

Others can chime in, but 9mm Lugar can be thought of in between 38 special and 40 S&W or 38 special and 357 magnum. The top weight with most 9mm bullets is 124g bullet which is similar to the lightweight 38/357 and the speed is 900-1100 fps which is a little better than 38 special and slower than 357 mag. On the other hand, the bullet is faster than the 180g 40S&W, but with a considerably lighter bullet.
 
Pierce said:
I have heard that lead shouldn't be shot in a Glock barrel as it will ruin the rifling? Is this fact or urban legend?
Click to expand...
Glock barrels are surface hardened and although leading may build up in the rifling, I do not think it will "ruin" the rifling.

Id like to cast bullets for the Glock.
Click to expand...
IMHO, shooting lead loads in factory Glock barrels can be done with some considerations. Glock barrels differ from typical barrels (that have square cut land/groove rifling) by having rounded rifling with longer leade/freebore and very smooth start of rifling - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8464678#post8464678

Below is an example of a square cut land/groove rifled barrel with rifling that tends to dig/cut into the lead bullet surface

attachment.php


In comparison, Glock barrels have very smooth rounded rifling with gradual/smooth start of rifling that may not allow the bullet surface to grip the rifling as well (as you can see in the picture below, Glock barrels are not "true" polygonal but rather round with hexagonal rifling).

attachment.php


attachment.php


These aspects of Glock barrels may allow the lead bullet to slide deeper into the rifling before the chamber pressure starts to build during which time more high pressure gas leaks around the bullet, more liquefied lube is blown off the bullet surface and gas cutting/bullet base erosion increases.

IME, these will result in more flaky/crusty fouling deposit along the rifling. Below is a Glock barrel after 100 rounds of lead loads and you can see the flaky/crusty fouling deposit especially along the rifling.

attachment.php


In comparison, below is a Lone Wolf barrel after several hundred rounds of the same lead load. As you can see, there is no flaky/crusty fouling deposit, just residual lube smearing.

attachment.php


IME, the flaky/crusty fouling deposit on Glock barrels don't initially affect accuracy until around 100-200 round count. More importantly, if the fouling deposit is allowed to continue, you may essentially end up with a smooth bore barrel with a reduced groove diameter which will probably increase the chamber pressures.

For these reasons, I usually recommend inspection of the Glock barrels after 200-300 lead rounds and clean as necessary to ensure accuracy is maintained and fouling build up is removed - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8465230#post8465230
 
P.S.
Has anyone ever tried liquid alox with lead bullets in a Glock barrel?
Works wonders in everything else.
 
Ya know, I don't see any significant difference in the leading between the two different barrels.

Looks to me like undersized bullets.

I shot a lot of lead through Glocks. Use correctly sized bullets of a reasonable alloy (Not hardball) and clean them once in a while.
 
The Glock barrel picture shows flaky/crusty fouling build up but no leading and the Lone Wolf barrel picture shows residual lube smearing but also no leading.

The lead loads used for the test were Missouri 18 BHN 125 gr RN sized .356" loaded with 4.0 gr of W231/HP-38 (according to 1999 Winchester load data) and 4.0 gr of Promo (Using Red Dot load data per Alliant and 2004 Alliant load data) at 1.100" OAL. I have tested higher powder charges of W231/HP-38 but they resulted in leading of Lone Wolf barrels.

Shooting 200-300 rounds of these loads in Glock barrels do not lead the barrel for me, just flaky/crusty fouling along the rifling and perhaps slight smearing deposit of lead near the chamber end. I have shot 500+ rounds of the same loads in Lone Wolf barrels with no leading, just residual lube smearing as shown in the pictures and also perhaps slight smearing lead deposit near the chamber end.

I use Hoppes #9 and old copper bore brush wrapped with copper strands (Chore boy) to clean both Glock and Lone Wolf barrels. A few minutes of soak and a few strokes of copper strand wrapped bore brush results in clean barrels.
 
those are some real good pics.

Can anyone comment on lead wad cutters and the chambering. Im thinking fully seated flush round crimp?
 
I had zero leading in my G21. Low pressure/speed round, really not an issue. I scrubbed the bore after 100 rounds just in case but all it needed was a mop.

BDS is spot on, he knows his stuff.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top