A couple of questions for you "cowboy" or SA revolver shooters....

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Hokkmike

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I just purchased a Taylor "Smoke Wagon" (Uberti) deluxe revolver in .45 Long Colt with a 5.5 inch barrel. The manual says that the firing pin is designed only to punch the primer when the trigger is pulled but also recommends that the cylinder under the hammer be kept empty. So, that is what I am going to do.

Here are my questions; I appreciate your answers.

1. Is it a wise policy to only shoot lead bullets out of this type of gun? A person I know very little gave me an almost full box of reloads that have a semi wadcutter type of bullet. I am nervous about shooting somebody else's reloads out of my revolver anyway.

2. Where is the best place to buy western style cartridge belts and holsters without breaking the bank? I did get a holster in the deal but no belt and will first try to match what I have to save some money. I realize over time that a holster will likely discolor the gun. I am wondering if there is a way to "break in" the holster making it more supple.

3. If there is anythng else I should know about the care and feeding of this type of revolver please let me know. (I have already purchased and loaded snap-caps for dry firing)

THANKS!
 
Congrats on your purchase, great game all around.
Talking about our question, even I'm not an expert my intake will tell you.
1- I don't upload all chambers in my vaqueros when shot my reloads on a regular range (anyway), over game CAS-SASS only five rounds are allowed.
In regards of use reloads from some else, it a risky game unless you him very well or shot that ammo batch before.
2- Don't buy anything yet, go to a match someone will come up with an advice, lend or used for sale. Try first, select what kind of game you like, it might change you mind with the six's on the hips.

http://www.jm-leather.com/gunfighter.htm
https://www.triplek.com/product-category/sportsman/cartridge-belts-and-carriers/
Wades Western Wear
http://www.michiganrattler.com/
http://www.rodkiblersaddlery.com/Holsters.html
Murphy's Custom Gun Leather.
Mernickle https://www.mernickleholsters.com/
Kirkpatrick http://www.kirkpatrickleather.com/
Knights http://www.knightsleatherproducts.com/index.html
JM-Leather
http://jm-leather.com/
http://www.westernleatherholster.com
Red Cent - https://www.google.com/url?
Maddog Custom Leather - Etsy
http://www.rodkiblersaddlery.com/
Reddog Leather - Ebay
Utah Scout Leather - Ebay
Doc Noper - Facebook for contact info, no internet presence.
Jack Dixon/Dixon Leatherworks - Facebook
I have no affiliation with all the above.
3- Great option for practicing how to up load and leaving a chamber open over the firing pin and techniques how to cock your hammer.

Lastly, post some pics of you game and pards, be safe.
 
1. Is it a wise policy to only shoot lead bullets out of this type of gun? A person I know very little gave me an almost full box of reloads that have a semi wadcutter type of bullet. I am nervous about shooting somebody else's reloads out of my revolver anyway.

What kind of bullet you shoot is personal preference. Lead or jacketed are equally fine. I shoot a lot more lead bullets but do so mainly for cost savings.
You're right to be nervous about shooting someone else's reloads out of your gun, especially since you don't know them well.
There are people who's reloads I shoot, but I can count them on one hand, and I know them very well and also know their loading practices.
 
I just purchased a Taylor "Smoke Wagon" (Uberti) deluxe revolver in .45 Long Colt with a 5.5 inch barrel. The manual says that the firing pin is designed only to punch the primer when the trigger is pulled but also recommends that the cylinder under the hammer be kept empty. So, that is what I am going to do.

Here are my questions; I appreciate your answers.

1. Is it a wise policy to only shoot lead bullets out of this type of gun? A person I know very little gave me an almost full box of reloads that have a semi wadcutter type of bullet. I am nervous about shooting somebody else's reloads out of my revolver anyway.

2. Where is the best place to buy western style cartridge belts and holsters without breaking the bank? I did get a holster in the deal but no belt and will first try to match what I have to save some money. I realize over time that a holster will likely discolor the gun. I am wondering if there is a way to "break in" the holster making it more supple.

3. If there is anythng else I should know about the care and feeding of this type of revolver please let me know. (I have already purchased and loaded snap-caps for dry firing)

THANKS!
Great revolver - I have a similar one under the Cimmarron name. Re keeping the cylinder under the hammer empty - always for carry/holstering otherwise if you're just at a range and keep the muzzle pointed downrange you should be fine. To see how it works, with an EMPTY revolver, hold the it with the muzzle straight up and look at the firing pin, it should be retracted. If you then pull the trigger the firing pin should appear.

Before first use I would clean and oil it. This will also let you remove the cylinder and put it back which is easier the first time if it is clean. FWIW I use Ballistol - I use that for my modern design firearms as well.

I would NEVER use someone elses reloads, but that's me. With regard to lead, plated, jacketed, etc.,that is up to you. Lead (uncoated) will be lubed and it will deposit more curd on your hands and in the gun for you to clean up. I prefer coated lead bullets as they have the advantages of lead without the mess.

Make sure that you have or get a set of screwdrivers that are gunsmith (hollow ground). You need to check all of the screws (10 or 11) after each range session as they can loosen.

Enjoy!
 
I use to shoot only copper plated out of mine, but now I shoot just lead LWSC. It's the gun in my picture.
 
Only issue with jacketed bullets is cost. It's an unnecessary expense, especially for range use. Cast bullets are measurably cheaper and many designs are suitable for hunting.

I load all my single actions with five rounds, even New Model Rugers. IMHO, it's a good habit to be in when you have a bunch of half cock guns.

El Paso Saddlery is excellent and who I'd recommend. I have a bunch of their stuff and even bought more after starting to make my own. It's not cheap but it's affordable and should be considered a lifelong investment. Here's the last El Paso rig I bought when I stopped at the Texas Jack's store in Fredericksburg. I also bought the 7.5" version of this holster last fall but no pics yet. It's marketed as Texas Jack's brand but it's made by El Paso Saddlery.

IMG_9556b.jpg
 
I have the Smokewagon deluxe in .357, 4 5/8 barrel. Great piece! You are fine with jacketed stuff.

I havent had problems with the screws on my Smokewagon, but have had those issues on other Uberti cattlemans. I second the advice of getting a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers. Only took 1/2 turn for me to bugger up a screw head. The screws are soft. I have the Wheeler gunsmith driver set now and like it.

A lot of leather makers have been mentioned. I'm currently looking at a mernickle rig for SASS. The price is reasonable. czhen put some good links up for you. I have heard good things about reddog leather but have no experience.

Enjoy it! Come on out to a local SASS match and check it out!
 
If you shoot CAS at SASS, you are obliged to shoot lead bullets. Coated is acceptable, plated or jacketed is not. Targets are steel plate, often closer than any other discipline. Bad enough to throw spatter without adding jacket fragments.

You may only load five in a sixshooter. Gunmakers are working to protect the "modern" shooter from himself but the rules are based on conventional SAA.
 
Most of us do not want “supple” holsters. Rigid holsters with lining allow easier faster draws. Kirkpatrick and Mernickle are the two brands I would choose from for western styling. If you are not planning to compete, you might consider a flap top holster to retain and protect the gun. Bianchi made some nice flap holsters for Rugers and Colts, which should fit your Uberti. You can see some on Gunbroker; search “Bianchi flap”.
 
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Congrats on a fine six shooter.

It seems all your concerns were addressed but one, I think. Sorry if I didn’t catch it. That would be how to make your existing holster supple. (Looks like JBar posted about this while I was typing).

Rather than supple, a form fit is highly preferred. Soak your holster in warm water for a few hours, overnight is better. Don’t freak out if the water turns the same color as your holster.

Then wrap your gun in gallon zip lock bag and shove it in holster that you have just pulled out of the water. Let it set up and dry that way for a day or two.

If you want a bit looser fit, use two zip lock bags.

if you are not satisfied with the fit, you can always re-soak and re-fit.

If you want a funnel flare at the opening for a faster re-holstering, you can soak it with a tennis ball crammed in the opening. And every hour or so push the leading edge over for a curled effect.

I did this to this cheap holster almost 20 years ago and quickly moved on to custom holsters. This holster has been stored in a duffle bag crushed by the weight of other equipment in storage as well. You can see that it still does the job.


34F6AFD4-3BB4-498B-9F3D-16AC7978F6C9.jpeg
 
First off: CONGRATS!

as for loading... Load one, skip one, load 4.

I shoot lead bullets almost exclusively.

I use El Paso Saddlery mostly for belts/holsters. I like their canvas pistol belt. Keeps the rounds from getting that green junk (I forgot the actual term for it).

I also use Kirkpatrick Leather for holsters.

Shooting tip:
your pinky under the grip makes for better shooting.
 
Congratulations on your purchase. I carry my SAA's in a mix of triple K and El-Paso holsters, and can only echo what others have said regarding loading and carrying the gun. My personal favorite carry position is cross-draw in a slim jim style holster and, like Corpral Agarn, on a canvas cartridge belt, or sometimes just on my regular pants belt. They're more comfortable when riding the tractor all day, and are easy to draw from when sitting down. I do not compete in any of the competitions, but carry most every day on the farm. So, I tend to like JHP bullets over others for general varmint smacking; generally whatever is on sale at the time. Most people would carry an auto or DA revolver for "bumming" around, but I am much more comfortable with the SA design. They're simple, don't jam up, are decently accurate, and maybe best of all, look real nice on your hip. Whatever you decide, good luck and enjoy your new revolver!

Mac
 
Only issue with jacketed bullets is cost. It's an unnecessary expense, especially for range use. Cast bullets are measurably cheaper and many designs are suitable for hunting.

I load all my single actions with five rounds, even New Model Rugers. IMHO, it's a good habit to be in when you have a bunch of half cock guns.

El Paso Saddlery is excellent and who I'd recommend. I have a bunch of their stuff and even bought more after starting to make my own. It's not cheap but it's affordable and should be considered a lifelong investment. Here's the last El Paso rig I bought when I stopped at the Texas Jack's store in Fredericksburg. I also bought the 7.5" version of this holster last fall but no pics yet. It's marketed as Texas Jack's brand but it's made by El Paso Saddlery.

View attachment 891361

those rigs are nice but just look heavy. Any lighter weight rigs that would carry my packing pistols. Anyway to lighten them up by about 2 ounces or so?
 
My advice is to look at many ways to carry such as shoulder holsters before you decide how you want to tote that hog leg. For example if the sidearm is going to be a back-up arm while you are hunting with a rifle you may find that a belt holster is going to become tiresome if you plan to walk and hunt.
 
those rigs are nice but just look heavy. Any lighter weight rigs that would carry my packing pistols. Anyway to lighten them up by about 2 ounces or so?
Well the pistol you plan on packing isn't exactly a light weight.

The weight is distributed, too, so there's that.

My canvas one might be a touch lighter than a leather belt, but I admit, I don't have to tote the weight myself:
Dhi-Kg9XTr7v1BlwUfYIXfw-XmluhY4yG4qv-rJt4iAs_x1V5DgyzxxHm1RZripQhTTJjxDjeBKAFHHoSc=w1175-h705-no.jpg
 
Congrats on a fine six shooter.

It seems all your concerns were addressed but one, I think. Sorry if I didn’t catch it. That would be how to make your existing holster supple. (Looks like JBar posted about this while I was typing).

Rather than supple, a form fit is highly preferred. Soak your holster in warm water for a few hours, overnight is better. Don’t freak out if the water turns the same color as your holster.

Then wrap your gun in gallon zip lock bag and shove it in holster that you have just pulled out of the water. Let it set up and dry that way for a day or two.

If you want a bit looser fit, use two zip lock bags.

if you are not satisfied with the fit, you can always re-soak and re-fit.

If you want a funnel flare at the opening for a faster re-holstering, you can soak it with a tennis ball crammed in the opening. And every hour or so push the leading edge over for a curled effect.

I did this to this cheap holster almost 20 years ago and quickly moved on to custom holsters. This holster has been stored in a duffle bag crushed by the weight of other equipment in storage as well. You can see that it still does the job.

This is a real revelation to me thanks. Form fit vs. supple. I was thinking that "harder" leather would mark the gun up quicker but now understand that I don't want somethings softer and clingy when drawing the weapon.
 
Thanks all for your replies, links, and the amazing pictures. My thought was to use the .45 Colt as a range gun, maybe hunt with it on few occasions, and have it as a "top of the stairs" gun at night. I will train my wife to use it pulling the hammer back only as the final step in a necessary use of the gun. My usual carry is a Glock 42. I'm thinking of "upgrading" to a Sig 365 but like the pocket size of the smaller .380. I bought the .45 LC as a companion to my 1953 Model 94 in .32 WS. I have been watching too many episodes of the best "gun" show on TV, Gunsmoke....
 
I could probably come up with something to save a few ounces. Do you prefer white or pink lace?
What do you use? Does it matter on the lace and which revolver, say pink with a single action army and may black lace with a smith wesson? What would you recommend?
 
Even If I trusted the guy to be knowledgeable, I'd still dissect a few.
Honestly I would probably pull, all of them and reload the primed brass.

A few years ago I was given several hundred .357 reloads. The fellow said they wouldn't chamber in his revolver. The bullets were the long Keith type, which if crimped in the grove won't chamber in some revolvers. Beyond that, they were a bit over crimped and some still wouldn't chamber in an L-frame. I almost thought of saving myself some trouble and shooting those that did chamber.

In the end, I knocked them apart. I couldn't identify the powder, and in one of them, inside the case, I found a live primer.
 
Well the pistol you plan on packing isn't exactly a light weight.

The weight is distributed, too, so there's that.

My canvas one might be a touch lighter than a leather belt, but I admit, I don't have to tote the weight myself:
View attachment 891410
I've never seen a breast collar hooked up that high, but I've never ridden straight up a mountain in California either.
 
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