A Live and Learn Moment With My Single Six

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

Benp

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2019
Messages
40
Location
Northern MN
All of the single six chatter in here prompted me to dig mine out and give it a going over.

The last few years I’ve been shooting Aguila Super Colibri’s out of it. So she was a little dirty.

Took it apart and got to cleaning.

My standard routine with my revolvers is to drop the cylinder in Slip 2000 Carbon Killer while I work on the pistol barrel and frame. Pull the cylinder out, clean it, oil it and reassemble.

Let’s just say the cylinder got REALLY clean. :eek::what:
B5B65121-1A27-4EA0-9248-718BCE61EA1B.jpeg

Definitely a unique look. Lol.

And I realized that this was the first blued cylinder I’ve put in the Carbon Killer. Everything else is stainless.

Live and learn.
 
Well that sucks, kind of like a reverse Wrangler. lol

The barrel would probably look similar if cleaned the same way, is the frame steel or alum.?

If you want to reblue the cylinder, I’ve had good results with Van’s Instant Blue.
 
Speedo66 said:
Well that sucks, kind of like a reverse Wrangler. lol

The barrel would probably look similar if cleaned the same way, is the frame steel or alum.?

If you want to reblue the cylinder, I’ve had good results with Van’s Instant Blue.
Click to expand...

I would imagine. I thought it was a steel frame due to the weight. I could be wrong.

This actually isn’t the first firearm in my collection like this. Lol.

Years ago I scored an excellent condition Jm Marlin 1894 for dirt cheap.

Figured out why it was so cheap when I Got it to my friends house to try it out. It was non firing.

Looking it over, it appeared the original packing grease/oil was never cleaned. This was solidified.

My buddy said to leave it with him and he would tear it apart and get it firing.

Next day he called and said “I got the 44 firing but don’t be mad.”

“Ummmm.....what do you mean?”

“well, I put the whole bolt assembly in vinegar. All of the gunk dissolved, cleaner than clean and works great”

“ok. What’s the problem?”

“The vinegar ate the blueing. It’s silver. Very unique look.”:rofl:

C214342C-F4CC-4497-9A8D-1DB0704F53A4.jpeg

Been rocking it this way for over a decade.
 
Benp said:
All of the single six chatter in here prompted me to dig mine out and give it a going over.

The last few years I’ve been shooting Aguila Super Colibri’s out of it. So she was a little dirty.

Took it apart and got to cleaning.

My standard routine with my revolvers is to drop the cylinder in Slip 2000 Carbon Killer while I work on the pistol barrel and frame. Pull the cylinder out, clean it, oil it and reassemble.

Let’s just say the cylinder got REALLY clean. :eek::what:
View attachment 865171

Definitely a unique look. Lol.

And I realized that this was the first blued cylinder I’ve put in the Carbon Killer. Everything else is stainless.

Live and learn.
Click to expand...
You know, I kinda like it. I'm serious, it looks good that way. You only need to watch it closely so it doesn't rust.

I have found Oxpho-Blue from Brownells to be an excellent cold blue with no need to deactivate with water. You will like the results.

https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=Oxpho+blue&ksubmit=y
 
Last edited:
Benp

I think at this point I would try cold bluing it to keep it from rusting. If that doesn't look right or if rust becomes a problem I would get the gun hard chrome plated. If the grip frame is aluminum then it can be anodized to match the silver color of the hard chrome plating.

I had a rust problem with my Beretta Model 70S shortly after I got it. Beretta reblued it under warranty but the rust returned. Sent it to Ron Mahovsky of Metalife for his SS Chromium M hard chrome plating. That was well over 30 years ago and the gun still looks as good as the day I got it back from him!

fbAgtTf.jpg
 
Thanks for the advice guys! I do like the look as well.

Corrosion is my main concern. It’s hosed down in oil now. I was thinking of soaking it in Mobil 1 just so everything was covered very well.

I’ll definitely keep an eye on it.

bannockburn said:
Benp

I think at this point I would try cold bluing it to keep it from rusting. If that doesn't look right or if rust becomes a problem I would get the gun hard chrome plated. If the grip frame is aluminum then it can be anodized to match the silver color of the hard chrome plating.

I had a rust problem with my Beretta Model 70S shortly after I got it. Beretta reblued it under warranty but the rust returned. Sent it to Ron Mahovsky of Metalife for his SS Chromium M hard chrome plating. That was well over 30 years ago and the gun still looks as good as the day I got it back from him!

View attachment 865183
Click to expand...

Wow!!!!!!! I like that a lot!!!!

When I read “hard chrome plating” I was thinking it looking like a “pimp” gun. Lol

I love that satin/brushed look.
 
Benp

I love the stainless steel look too! At the time I had it done it was actually cheaper than having it reblued! My brother had his Browning Hi-Power Metalifed because of a similar rust problem and everyone who saw it wanted to know where he got the stainless Hi-Power at!

That Beretta was for many years my "Kit Gun" whenever I went hiking. It also goes with me every time I go to the range. Still looks like it's brand new!
 
bannockburn said:
Benp

I think at this point I would try cold bluing it to keep it from rusting. If that doesn't look right or if rust becomes a problem I would get the gun hard chrome plated. If the grip frame is aluminum then it can be anodized to match the silver color of the hard chrome plating.

I had a rust problem with my Beretta Model 70S shortly after I got it. Beretta reblued it under warranty but the rust returned. Sent it to Ron Mahovsky of Metalife for his SS Chromium M hard chrome plating. That was well over 30 years ago and the gun still looks as good as the day I got it back from him!

View attachment 865183
Click to expand...

+1 on Mahovsky. Had an Astra A70 and A FEG High Power done by him. He's also very reasonably priced.
 
I believe Ruger is using stainless steel for their modern pistols. They use a bluing solution that colors the stainless for the "blued" guns and just polish it for the stainless variants. If you want to see why I think this look at a blued Mark II, III, or IV target pistol. The bolt is blued except were it shows in the ejection port. That part is stainless. They wouldn't leave it exposed if it was prone to rusting. Just a thought.
 
Taurus 617 CCW said:
I believe Ruger is using stainless steel for their modern pistols. They use a bluing solution that colors the stainless for the "blued" guns and just polish it for the stainless variants. "

You are mistaken. No "blued stainless" for Ruger or anyone else I know of. Stainless does not accept blueing ; blueing stainless would be pointless.
Click to expand...
 
Just tell everyone that it is a custom Slip 2000 Carbon finish drop-in replacement cylinder. :)

Seriously though, perhaps the best solution is to ship the revolver to Ruger, claiming that you lost the cylinder, and let them quick-fit a new one.
It could not be that expensive.
Then sell off the original.
Maybe somebody will want to re-chamber it to .22 magnum, or they need one to replace a missing one, and looks won't matter if the price is reasonable.
 
Looks good to me.

I'd just wax the whole gun and not worry too much about it. I wax all of mine now and have never seen rust on anything. I started off with "Pledge" furniture polish, (worked fine) and now use Renaissance Wax, but any good wax will do. A little will last a LONG time. Apply with your fingertip, buff off with an old T-shirt or something similar.
 
These are the moments we remember and in the process "personalize" a firearm in a way that is unique and comes with a story.

Vinegar will also quickly destroy charcoal bluing, trust me I know :)
 
A $10 bottle of cold blue would solve the rusting problem.

My understanding is that stainless steel Single Sixes have a steel frame, and that blued ones have an aluminum frame.
 
A friend and of mine did something similar with some blued parts for his Winchester. I can’t remember what the solvent was now but I believe it was a copper solvent cleaner.

Anyway, if I need to soak parts / cylinders for an extended period (overnight to 24 hours) I use Break Free CLP. I have never harmed bluing with it.
 
LaneP said:
These are the moments we remember and in the process "personalize" a firearm in a way that is unique and comes with a story.

Vinegar will also quickly destroy charcoal bluing, trust me I know :)
Click to expand...

I totally agree.

I also have the vinegar badge as well that I mentioned in an earlier reply.

Thanks for all of the input guys!!!!

I’ve been reading the gun care products post/experiment.

I think I’ll hose the cylinder down with One Shot and call it good.

If any issues start to arise I’ll thinking about the chroming.

I was floored at how reasonable mahovsky’s prices are.
 
I put mine in my ultrasonic cleaner with Hoppes #9 (in a seperate container). I have yet to have a problem. If anything, the Hoppes darkens the bluing. They come out looking better than they did when they were new. And they run smooth as butter.
It's funny with Hoppes, when I turn on the heater in my ultrasonic and heat the Hoppes up, then put the gun in it, when I pull the gun out and let it drain, it seems to almost dry it'self.
It's effortless to dry it and I never have any leach out of the action later on.
I do this in my garage or take it outside. If I'm just doing a slide or a semi-automatic barrel, I just put them in a slender pickle jar and fill it with Hoppes and set that in the water in my ultrasonic.
The ultrasonic effect transfers right through the glass into the Hoppes.
 
Which ultrasonic cleaner to you use?


tightgroup tiger said:
I put mine in my ultrasonic cleaner with Hoppes #9 (in a seperate container). I have yet to have a problem. If anything, the Hoppes darkens the bluing. They come out looking better than they did when they were new. And they run smooth as butter.
It's funny with Hoppes, when I turn on the heater in my ultrasonic and heat the Hoppes up, then put the gun in it, when I pull the gun out and let it drain, it seems to almost dry it'self.
It's effortless to dry it and I never have any leach out of the action later on.
I do this in my garage or take it outside. If I'm just doing a slide or a semi-automatic barrel, I just put them in a slender pickle jar and fill it with Hoppes and set that in the water in my ultrasonic.
The ultrasonic effect transfers right through the glass into the Hoppes.
Click to expand...
 
With my gp 100 I will dismantle it into smaller components so I can fit them in there. It does miracles for cylinder assys.
My next ultrasonic will be from Amazon, one of the more industrial, large capacity ones.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
My Single Six Screw-up
2
Replies
43
Views
4K
Robereno
R
Bazoo
  • Locked
Testing ammo in a single six.
Replies
15
Views
315
Bazoo
Bazoo
Bartojc
  • Locked
Ruger Single six impulse buy..
2 3
Replies
62
Views
3K
Reloadron
Reloadron
Bazoo
  • Locked
Cleaning single six between ammo types.
Replies
24
Views
611
Bazoo
Bazoo
skfullen
  • Locked
OM Single Six Purchase (new to me!)
Replies
19
Views
1K
nrobe50
N
Back
Top