A test period/method for CCW revolvers before considering them "reliable" for CCW?

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Doug S

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I posted this over on The Firing Line forums. Thought it would be interesting to get peoples opinions on this topic.

I'm relatively new to the revolver as my primary CCW. Although the numbers vary somewhat, most everyone has read or heard some stated standard for shooting your CCW semi-auto with a certain amount of your selected defensive ammo, without malfunction, before considering the gun reliable enough for CCW. What I've not noticed is a similar statement for revolvers. Do most people consider revolvers to be so reliable as for this to be a non-issue? Just fire it at the range to make sure its working, and then put it in your holster? Do any of you have a standard test period, before you consider a revolver "reliable" enough for CCW? If so, what is it? You just don't see this information being put forth in regard to revolvers, whereas, just about every gun magazine mentions something similar in reference to semi-autos.

I'll be honest, I picked up a used pre lock 642 a couple of weeks ago. It is in nice shape. I put a little less than 100 rounds though it, and began carrying it. My new Ruger SP101, had about 300 rounds through it before I started carrying it.

In contrast I always have put about 500 rounds with 100 to 200 of those being my chosen defensive load through my semi-autos before being comfortable enough to carry one for CCW.
 
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really,with new revolvers,after a cleaning and look over,I wouldn't expect any function problems untill 10 or 15 thousand rounds when things may loosen up a little.should NEVER have a failure to feed or extract. can't say the same for semi-autos.in case of ammo failure a quick follow up shot is simple,pull the trigger again, can't say the same for semi-autos.I baby all my weapons,I carry both a revolver and a S&W 3914 as my CCW at times,I expect both to go bang when I need them to,so far ,both have.but I am more comfortable with the revolver. just read the "gun forums" lot more "how do I fix" semi-auto questions compared to revolvers. jwr
 
With autos I go though two phases of testing. Phase 1 with a couple hundred rounds of FMJ to ensure the gun and magazines work reliably (without introducing potential HP feed issues), then I clean the gun, lube it and run Phase 2 with at least 100 rounds or so of my HP carry ammo to ensure the chosen carry ammo feeds reliably with my gun and magazines. This part of testing also verifies that POI is right, that recoil and control are satisfactory and that the ammo works as expected.

With a revolver, ammunition feed is a non-issue and there are no magazines to test. So I run maybe one hundred rounds through it to ensure the gun is reliable (and that there are no manufacturing flaws). Of that, maybe 25 rounds are my carry ammo. This is to unsure that POI is right, that recoil and control are satisfactory and verify that there are no unexpected issues (like hard primers, bullets jumping crimp or something like that). So far, I've had no surprises with any of my revolvers and everything worked as expected.

For both revolvers and semi-autos, I generally do a lot of dry firing with snap caps before shooting it. This is both to familiarize myself with the gun and to exercise the trigger and springs a bit.
 
I'm not expert and may be corrected by one, but I suspect the issue is ammo. After somewhere around 200 rounds it should be clear enough that the gun will work. The reason many auto loaders may put so many rounds through a new purchase is to make sure that it likes the ammo that they are putting through it and isn't going to jam up after a few mags full. Revolvers don't have much of an ammo sensitivity problem and so all you are really testing is whether or not the gun functions. Personally though I think the more rounds the better...
 
Just load it up...Pull the trigger 6 times...If you hear 6 bangs...Carry it.
Just be sure to keep it clean, especially UNDER the ejector star. For a CCW, I prefer the cylinder gap in full lock-up to be at least .004" for all cylinders...anything less and it may bind up if hot and/or dirty.
 
Interesting, makes sense that it is mostly an ammo sensitivity with semi autos. For the most part a non-issue with revolvers. It does make sense to test a couple of boxes for function, and then a few cylinders with your chosen defensive ammo to check POI, and for bullet jumping. I have had some problems with a tight cylinder gap with a Taurus revolver. Also, some light strike issues. Good info, and interesting to hear othes points of view.
 
Count me in with the "around 200 mark for a wheelgun" crowd. That is what I am comfortable with, YMMV.


I had a revolver I bought used that turned out to have issues (yes it can happen). It showed up in under 50 rounds...
 
First there's "the checkout" which tells you if the piece appears right and tight.

About the main thing it can't check in terms of "go bangedness"[tm] is how well the primers are getting hit by the hammer - somebody may have put too light a mainspring ("hammer spring") in it. If it's not igniting primers reliably, you can always put a heavier mainspring in so this isn't a big-bucks problem.

CCI primers are known for being among the hardest to set off. So you can make a case for blowing off at least a box of 50 of any CCI (or Blazer) practice ammo to check that.

There's no need to run 200+ "candidate carry rounds" through as nose shape is a non-issue. Which is why some revolver rounds have a good rep for stopping power even though they're down on power from an autoloader equivelent.

Example: a Remington or Winchester 158gr all-lead hollowpoint 38+P doing 900+ (about 250ft/lbs energy) from a 4" tube compares very favorably against most 9mm defense ammo even when the autoloader ammo has at least 300-350ft/lbs energy behind it. The auto ammo has to compromise it's nose cavity shape to cope with feed ramps while the wheelgun ammo doesn't.

You can also stagger the horsepower round by round. My 357 sixgun has a pair of those 38+Ps first at bat followed by four full-house "thermonuclear" 125gr 357s packing about 800ft/lbs energy (and liable to blow somebody's eardrums out if fired from inside, say, a car). The difference in felt recoil is beyond merely "noticeable". One of those 125s (made by Doubletap) was enough literally blow up a bowling ball - split it clean in half at 20 paces or so, sending chunks of the concrete innards back past my position :). I figure if the first two rounds haven't solved the problem it's time to "set phasers on extra crispy" and hope bystanders have either hit the deck or fled.
 
Assuming the revolver is in good condition (in other words, you've gone through the advice in the "revolver checkout" stickied post in this forum) the main issue is actually the ammo. Primers, really...hard or inconsistent or whatever. I've seen revolvers repeatedly fail to fire a particular brand (or batch) of ammo even though they did fine with every other brand. A second strike usually (always, actually) did the job but that would kinda suck. Not as bad as in a semi-auto of course.

ETA: LOL... Jim beat me to it. :)
 
With revolvers, usually one range session to check POI with loads, find a load I like. Run a few hundred rounds through it and I'm good to go. It takes quite a bit longer for me to trust an autoloader. I really like to shoot some competition with it and put a few thousand rounds through it before I gain confidence. The standard reply is 200 rounds with carry ammo, but it takes me longer than that to gain confidence in an autoloader. Probably just me.
 
I agree, the revolver sticky at top is excellent. I guess by following the directions in the "sticky", you've gone a long way toward ensuring your revolver will be reliable in use. Afterward, a decent testfire for primer ignition, poi, bullet crimp, would most likely suffice. After reading all of the above responses, I do have a much better "picture" of the things I was wondering about, in regard to ensuring reliable revolver CCW (especially with used guns). Thanks all.
 
I'm not comfortable with anything less than 150-200 rounds of my chosen carry load through any weapon I will be using as a CCW, regardless of the form factor.
 
I'm not comfortable with anything less than 150-200

I suppose when you add up a couple of boxes of practice ammo to check function, and then a box or so of your preferred carry ammo, most people probably meet this standard.
 
I don't include practice ammo in that total. I run at least 150 rounds of actual carry ammo through any weapon I consider for carry. Cheap insurance as far as I am concerned.
 
Three boxes of ammo....'bout 150 rounds, making sure I note where the point of impacts hits relative to my point of aim each time I change brands and weights of ammo.....then I'm comfortable with carry.

- regards
 
IMO after you give a new revolver a good look over to make sure everything is in the right place and tight and you make sure the barrel is clean and without obstruction the only thing you really need to do is shoot the ammo you choose to carry to find out where the POI is with that ammo. That should be all you need to do before you carry a revolver. You really shouldn't need more than 20 rounds or so to know if your revolver likes your choice of ammo or not.

I just bought a M640 and brought it to the range a few days ago. I shot 5 rounds each of Speer 135gr .38 Special +P, DoubleTap 125gr .38 Special +P, Remington 158gr .38 Special +P LSWC/HP, Speer 135gr .357 Magnum, Winchester 145gr SilverTip .357 Magnum. The Winchester .357 Magnum rounds not only were dead on POA=POI they grouped so well there was no doubt in my mind which of the tested ammo to carry in that revolver. I shot 15 more rounds of the SilverTip to verify what the first 5 rounds were showing me and it wasn't a fluke. That was that!!!
 
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