Advice for Reloading for 270 Winchester

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Harvey, one thing that needs more attention in this discussion is how to check to see that primers have been seated to the bottom of the primer pocket. When you seat a primer it doesn't take but a second or two to hold the case up in front of your eye and look across the flat base of the case head to make sure the primer is all the way down into the pocket and it doesn't stick up above the flat surface of the base. If you can see the hump of the primer it's not seated all the way. Likewise, if you set a case down on it's base on a flat surface and it rocks back and forth or leans to the side the primer is not all the way down into the primer pocket. Another point, 4831 and 4350 have always been popular powders for a 270 Winchester but there is another good choice. Reloader 17 is at least as good or maybe better. If you keep having ignition problems try Reloader 17.
 
Appreciate the input Sage! I visually inspected each cartridge when I was done, and I am 100% positive none of the primers were seated above the base. It still doesn't mean that there's a possibility that I didn't seat those two primers all the way down, mistakes do happen but I can say that even with my only novice experience they appeared to be seated correctly. I posted a pic earlier of the two that didn't fire, if you have a moment take a look and tell me what you think.

I've also heard good things about R17, I'm pretty sure my LGS has some, I'll give it a try. Thanks again!
 
Harvey, I looked at the picture of the primers and I think rcmodel is correct in saying that based on the dimpling of the primer with the firing pin strike the anvil of the primer was likely not at the bottom of the primer pocket. A person will never know for sure and all you can do is to continue checking the primer seating in the future. I had some problems with hesitant ignition with a batch of IMR 4831 several years ago so I started looking for a replacement and that is why I'm using R17 now.
 
Harvey Manfrenjensenden said:
Wow, thanks a ton Poper! I'm prepping some cartridges tonight, I'm going to give your regimen a shot! I have a Vortex Viper 3-9×40 on here, and you're right. The target can be a little small at times when trying for precision.
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Yes. The better you can see, the better you can shoot. (BTW, the Vortex Viper is a good scope.)

It's easier for me to see my errors in my trigger squeeze, too. It's surprising how much the muscles in my hand can affect the steadiness (or lack there of :eek:) during the squeeze.
 
No doubt Poper. When I first started shooting this rifle, it had a horrendous 7.5lb trigger pull. I was able to use the factory adjustment screw to get it down to about 4, but I've since modified the spring for a crisp 2.5lb pull which is so much nicer. It has a fairly nice, crisp break but at the original weight it was like trying to stay on target while pulling a trigger that was tied to the bumper of a Volkswagen lol
 
I wait about 4 minutes between each shot when shooting for groups. This allows the barrel to cool down so that it's just warm to the touch.

Also, don't know if this was covered, but it helps a lot to shoot from a sled or at least rest the stock on a sand bag.
 
Harvey Manfrenjensenden said:
Thanks Reddyeddy, yep. Got bags and all that, but I will definitely wait a bit longer between shots. That could be one of the reasons why I'm getting those odd flyers with each group.
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I would say so, that is a light rifle, and I bet the barrel was pretty warm at the end of a couple strings.
 
After seeing the picture, I don't think they're dented deep enough.

They look the same as some .308 Win primed cases I did tests on and each case had about .005" more head clearance (space between the bolt face and case head when the round's pushed hard into the chamber shoulder by the firing pin) in sequence. Those with about .015" head clearance didn't fire.

Or, the firing pin doesn't stick out past the bolt face at least .060" which about right for large rifle primers to get consistent detonation with .005" maximum head clearance.

Can you measure how far the pin sticks out past the bolt face in its fired position?
 
Yeah, it sure is Gtscotty, I was rushing a bit to get through these prior to the range closing up and by the time I was around to my last group, it was actually difficult to see through the scope due to the radiant heat waves coming off the barrel.

I think I mentioned to you once before that the more I talk about this stuff with you guys, some serious light bulbs are turning on over my head :)
 
To all who have offered their time and advice in assisting me with figuring out some of these errors I've had in reloading for my .270, here is where I'm at.

As of now, I'm holding off on reloading for this rifle. At this time, considering your advice, I think that I have a few too many things going on here to ascertain in what area I'm losing accuracy with this rifle. I think what I've reloaded to this point technically works in most regards, but to get it to where I want I think that I'm fighting moving water here. Here is how I plan to proceed:

1. I'm going to wait until my new stock arrives. I will bed the bedding blocks and the rear of the action, and verify for a free-floating barrel

2. I am going to double check my primer pockets on my brass, and make double sure that the primer is pressed all the way down into the primer pocket at the correct depth.

3. For the brass, at this point they are once fired so I will be neck-sizing only and bumping the shoulders back .0015 and verifying consistency between casings.

4. I'm going to hold the original base>ogive distance I created in my 1st go around which was .018 off of the lands of my rifle

5. I'm going to develop the same loads using the same charge(s) of H4831sc

6. I will re-shoot a group utilizing factory ammo for a baseline

7. I'm going to get to the range early morning so that I can give my rifle a proper cooling period between groups and increase to a 5-shot group and also implement a slightly different technique with these groups per the advice of a member here.

Once I'm relatively certain that I've mitigated error with the rifle itself (as much as one can anyways) then I will again find the powder charge which gives me the best accuracy. After that I will make adjustments to my cartridge OAL, and once I have the best I can out of that, I will move on to experimenting with different powders and essentially working up my loads again until I have the best results.

I will be sure to report back to you once I have the new stock on and everything is in place and I have these new groups recorded. The turnaround time for my stock is going to be 2-3 weeks since I'm having it made with a custom LOP and several other options included.

Thanks again everyone, I look forward to speaking with you again soon, be it this topic in particular or in other topics on this forum!
 
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