AK47 question

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castile

castile

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I have a Chicom NHM90 with the AK74 style comp on it. It seems to make my gun shoot all over the place. I can't seem to his the same place within 4 feet at 100 yds with it on. I am not sure its the compensator as I was using the SGAmmo demilled Chicom ammo that was replaced with Berry bullets that were plated. I was told that they tend to fly apart because the AK develops faster FPS than they are designed for. This may be the problem. But I also have found that the part of the compensator where there are two holes about 1/8th inch on each side just before the flat final hole is broken out on one side. Here is a photo showing about where its missing. Is it likely the compensator or ammo or a combination of both? I was going to take my AK with some wolf ammo out and take the Compensator off shoot 10 rounds then shoot 10 to see if its as accurate with the Compensator on. If its not different than I know its the ammo.
 

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I never heard of a Berry bullet before now but according to their site 7.62x39 should not be loaded beyond 1,900 fps. If you're exceeding that speed i think the most likely problem is pretty obvious. What i don't get is why one would design a bullet for an AK with a limit of 1,900 fps? SBR use, maybe?
 
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If it helps, I have a 74 style break for my AK and have -0- problems, or accuracy issues with it on or off.

I'm thinking the bullets like you suspect.
 
I hope its not the comp. The bullets are not designed for the AK from what I can find. They were designed for the 3030 if I got my info correct. The gov. ordered a bunch of the Chinese ammo and then did not take it? It was supposed to be steel core and so they reloaded it with these bullets. I got it cheap and I did run 100 rounds through the gun. It seems that it was very inaccurate. The gun was purchased new and I dont think I put 300 rounds though it since I owned it.

I called SGAmmo and it goes directly to voice mail. I also sent a couple of emails and nothing. My comp is about a 35 dollar comp. I am going to be ticked off if I can't use this stuff.
 
Have you tried taking the muzzle brake off and shooting without it? If the accuracy improves, then the brake is likely the issue.

Being familiar with the design of those brakes, I could easily see damage in the area you illustrate affecting accuracy. Uneven distribution of muzzle gasses can do wacky things to your accuracy (same reason the muzzle crown is important).

The damage might have been from the factory, or could be from a bullet strike. Plated bullets arent meant to be pushed at normal AK velocities, in it might be deformed or damaged, causing even further inaccuracies. might have even broken up amd hit the brake. I wouldn't shoot any more of that ammo through the brake.

I would suggest that you first remove the brake (if it isnt pinned onto the FSB) and try shooting again. Second, get some different ammo and shoot some more. I'll bet you will get at least acceptable accuracy.
 
I got an email from SGAmmo. I was told to contact ATI who they purchased it from. I do not think I should call the distributor. But I did and they said that it was Russian Surplus ammo they removed the bullet and replaced it with a Berry bullet. They want to replace it with the same ammo. They are going to call me back. But I have ammo I am afraid to shoot and a broken compensator. I hope they can do something. I do not like the way SGAmmo blew me off either way. :mad:
 
It's not the ammo, it's that comp you have on it. I had one on mine and it did the same thing. Changed it and it's a nail driver. Change it or take it off, just that simple. Must be causeing some turbulance or something but it solved my problem.
 
Well its not the Ammo or the Comp. I sold the SGAmmo and bought 1000 rds of Wolf Classic ammo. I did a bore sight at 60 to 70 yds and took it to the range today at 100 yds with a B27 and could not put one bullet on paper. I stopped wasting bullets after 20 rds. I am down to thinking that I can put on some kind of optics. Not sure I want to put a bunch of money in it right now. Any help or ideas appreciated.
 
castile said:
Well its not the Ammo or the Comp. I sold the SGAmmo and bought 1000 rds of Wolf Classic ammo. I did a bore sight at 60 to 70 yds and took it to the range today at 100 yds with a B27 and could not put one bullet on paper. I stopped wasting bullets after 20 rds. I am down to thinking that I can put on some kind of optics. Not sure I want to put a bunch of money in it right now. Any help or ideas appreciated.
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Did you try with or without the broken muzzle device? Did you only shoot at 100yds? If you have the time, I suggest removing the broken brake and trying again with the good ammo, starting at 25yds and sighting the rifle in at that distance; if you can get reasonable groups at 25, move to 50yds, and if satisfied there move on to 100. This way you can see if the rifle is throwing shots like a broken lawn sprinkler, or just shooting way to the left/right/up/down. Jumping straight to 100yds can be discouraging with an unknown POI.

If you already did that, then something else may be wrong. o_O

Of course, if you're just tired of the gun, you could just dispose of it via UPS to my FFL. It's coming up on my birthday anyway... :p
 
That would be a nice BD present indeed. LOL I did shoot it without the break and I did not see any difference. My problem is that the range I shoot at does not have any shorter target sights. They only have the ones for 100. I could make up something out of wood that I could screw together at the range and set up at 25 yds. I did see an inexpensive 4 power scope and rail mounted to the dust cover replacement for 53 shipped.
 
Wait, did you clean the gun really well after shooting the berry bullet ammo? If it was exceeding the limits of the bullets and was causing fouling in the bore, the jacketed stuff may be shooting all over the place, and not be the ammos fault.

Switching from jacketed to cast, or back often requires the bore be meticulously cleaned of all jacket or lead fouling before the other type can shoot well. This isnt casual cleaning, like a bore snake or a few passes with mild solvents, but good copper and/or lead removing solvents, bronze brushes, and often a ton of elbow grease (read WORK).

After getting it truly clean, I'd remove the muzzle widget and shoot it with the wolf stuff and see what happens. If you aren't a pretty darned good shot, have someone else shoot it also and see how they do. I'd use the irons, other sights just add more variables to the mix, the irons arent that great, but are stable.
 
I always clean it with copper solvent and steel bronze brush. I don't even use or own a bore snake. I shot it with and with out the compensator. I think if I could get a longer front sight I could zero it in. I think its shooting high. But the strange things is when I bore sighted it, and I did it not with a bore sight but by looking down the barrel and zeroing in the front sight it showed I had to take the front sight down, way down. But when shooting when I ran the sight up I could get it so I was aiming two feet below the target to be on target.
 
I had an AK 74 break on my saiga and took it off. it was so loud it sounded like a .308 almost and did not seem to do that much in way of keeping the barrel down. it is much better without it being it hardly recoils anyway
 
Well, you should be good regarding the cleaning, if you're looking to see that there isnt any fouling, like grey streaks or brownish-orange streaks. Hard chrome should clean up reasonabley well.

What do you have the rear sight set at? All the way back is the battle setting, 300 yards, slightly forward, one click, is the actual 100 yard setting, you can see it go down when set at the 100 yard setting from the battle setting.

What distance did you bore sight it? That will have some bearing. I try for 100 yards or more to bore sight. The sights sit pretty high over the bore. If you can zero it on paper (shooting) I'd start at 25 yards if possible, then move out to 50, then 100.

If it's shooting high, the front sight needs to be run up (taller)and rear down (lowest setting, or 100 yards). You had it so tall though that you were holding a couple feet low to get on paper? You shouldn't need a different sight if you could get it that far up. You should be able to bracket it and zero it. If it were me, I'd center the front sight in its travel, then shoot and see where its going and adjust as required. I often just shoot odds and ends like rocks etc to get a gun rough zeroed before fine tuning it on paper, but if you're on a formal range, you cant do that. Shooting on paper at a closer distance is the simplest way to get it close to right at 100.
 
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