Anyone have any info on what type of Browning/FN shotgun this is? (pictures)

[TheOtherOne]

It's a friend of mines who's great grandpa gave it to him before he died. I don't know much about it other than it is suppose to be pretty old. I don't know if that means it's 30 years old or 100 years old.

On the left side of the barrel is: BROWNING ARMS COMPANY OGDEN UTAH - FULL 12 SPECIAL STEEL

The right side of the barrel is: MADE IN BELGIUM

On the receiver is: FABRIQUE NATIONALE D'ARMES DE GUERRE HERSTAL BELGIQUE - BROWNING'S PATENT DEPOSE

The 4 digit serial number (I'm assuming) is stamped in various places. The bottom of the reciever, the bolt, the screw heads. Other than that the only other real marking I can make out is P.V on both the right side of the receiver and the bolt.

I think there might also be a screw missing in the reciver above the front of the trigger guard (the green arrow in the picture)?

Any info someone might have on this shotgun would be appreciated! Also, if I'm right that it's missing a screw, should this be shot at all because he has been shooting it? He gave it to me to clean it. I don't think he's ever cleaned it before. I was just going run a snake down the barrel and clean it as best I could, but if anyone has information on how I could take it apart I would appreciate it.

 

[Gewehr98]

I'm surprised nobody gave the answer sooner.

It's a Belgian Browning Auto-5.

Browning's website can give you an approximate date of manufacture, using the serial number you provided.

The Browning Auto-5 is one heck of a shotgun. They were also manufactured by Remington and Savage. Browning only recently discontinued manufacture of the Auto-5, citing the cost of manufacture. (They had to take a chunk of steel, and carve away everything that didn't look like an Auto-5 receiver)

 

[ClarkEMyers]

It's THE classic Auto 5 -

It's THE classic Auto 5 - you can read all about it all over the place and millions were made under the patent including some by American makers. Notice that the gun uses friction wedges to adjust for loads - if it has not been taken down and cleaned you may want to (read probably should) take it down and clean it up and make sure the wedges are adjusted for the loads being used.

 

[mnrivrat]

Hard to tell exactly which screw is missin by the picture.

There should be a front trigger gaurd retainer that goes through the reciever and the front hole in the trigger gaurd. It looks like that might be the one missing and as such should be replaced before firing.

The other screw at that location is a small screw that threads into the reciever and acts as a lock to hold the front trigger gaurd retainer in position.

As stated, the A5 Browning didn't change much over the years and the info regarding modern built ones still applies to the older Belgium made guns.

 

[Fred Fuller]

Well, it's pre- WW2 for sure, and if it only has a 4- digit serial number then it's one of the real oldies because Browning started the A-5 with Serial Number 1. The safety in the front of the trigger guard was changed to a crossbolt later, that is the obvious visual indicator of an older A-5.

Learn what you are doing before starting to disassemble this gun- it's a tricky thing with an A-5 because it has a good number of small parts- it's a Browning design, after all, and it's an old design. A lot of what look like screws are more like threaded pins, and some of them may be locked in place by age, corrosion etc. Standard advice on older guns is to have them looked over by a qualified gunsmith before use.

The following links may help-

http://www.browning.com/services/dategun/detail.asp?id=13

http://www.browning.com/faq/detail.asp?ID=197 (owner's manuals)

lpl/nc

 

[MrMurphy]

That is a very, very nice Auto-5. Guy I used to work with had a much newer one, he loves it.

It's full choked I believe from what you said.

 

[TheOtherOne]

Thanks for all the information and links. I think it's a 6-digit serial number. 130xxxx. The xxxx part is on the bolt and screw heads, and the 130 is barely visible on the bottom of the receiver. So it's far from one of the first 10,000 .

There should be a front trigger gaurd retainer that goes through the reciever and the front hole in the trigger gaurd. It looks like that might be the one missing and as such should be replaced before firing.

The other screw at that location is a small screw that threads into the reciever and acts as a lock to hold the front trigger gaurd retainer in position.

Both of those are missing then. I can see on other parts of the receiver how they basically have two screws for each hole.

He has been shooting it this way though so I hope it hasn't caused any major problems.

I downloaded the manual and I think I'll just clean it up as best I can and tell him to take it to a gunsmith to look over everything else and get that screw replaced.

 

[Gordon]

Early ones like yours don't have engraving on reciever, don't have the cross bolt safety as previously mentioned, and have the Ogden Utah address. Otherwise same as later ones. Even Jap barrels fit these so you can use steel shot! The main springs wear and should be replaced as the mag spring also does. All the other springs last pretty well if not used 10s of thousands of times (once in a LONG while the firing pins break). The friction rings (brass wedges) wear too, I reccommend all three (inexpensive ) items be replaced before shooting these real oldies .

 

[cedarsavage]

That is a great gun. All us lefty-shooters love that safety in the trigger guard. Best not try to clean it or do anything other than take it to a gunsmith. Those screw slots are probably thinner than any you will ever see on another shotgun and if you don't have the set from "Grace", you have to grind down the tips of regular screwdrivers to fit. Anything other than taking the foreend off and pulling the spring and friction rings off gets into some serious work. Taking the buttstock off to get things out of the receiver requires you to fold a towel on the edge of the workbench and wham the end of the receiver down onto it whilst pulling down on the buttstock with a firm grip! Not for the faint of heart! Don't even WATCH the gunsmith do this if you have any indications of diarrhea!

good luck, cs

 

[TheOtherOne]

Thanks... Yeah, all I ended up doing was pulling the barrel out and taking the foregrip off and then cleaning it all the best I could. The spring and friction rings were absolutely filthy. I think it all might have been grease at one time. I cleaned them off good and then just left a nice layer of CLP. Will that be sufficient or do they need grease?

 

[Gordon]

sufficient and desireable to shoot it for awhile because CLP has a slight solvent action.

 

[cedarsavage]

Looking at the pics, the arrow is pointing to the "trigger plate pin locking screw" and the "trigger plate pin". (or, the holes where they used to be!). The screw is to keep the pin from drifting out on its own volition.
Don't worry about the hole on the top of the left side of the receiver, it is there to allow the "locking block latch pin" to be drifted out. Both of those pins come out from right to left. Most pins come out from left to right, but the old Brownings are a different breed.
You can find detailed instructions on taking it apart and putting it back together and best get some if you are planning on fixing it up. Brownells has all of those screws, pins, springs, friction rings, etc.
Those old A5s are really something. Eighty or ninety parts all fit together and result in an amazingly rugged shotgun. But missing a part here or there puts a strain on the others. I wouldn't shoot it until it was repaired. And, while you are at it, take a look at the friction parts. As dirty as you say, there might be some scratches or grooves. Don't know about using CLP, but we used a very light wipe of oil and then set the rings for "heavy" and then the A5 12 and the Sweet Sixteen would function with "light" loads. Probably just defeating the purpose of the "friction", but it works (and I still do it).
If you guys are going to take it apart on your own, get all the instructions you can get ahold of, and then get a whole bunch of paper cups. Every time you take a part off, put it aside and number the cup. Trust me on this. Browning screws and pins are not interchangeable from one hole or part to another.
Okay, I'll wipe my drool off the pics of that great old gun and wish you luck with it. Again, no more shooting without that trigger plate pin and checking the friction parts!

happy days,
cs

 

[TheOtherOne]

Thanks. I looked on Brownells and found these:

TRIGGER PIN
TRIGGER PLATE FOR CROSSBOLT SAFETY
TRIGGER PLATE SCREW, FRONT
TRIGGER PLATE SCREW, REAR
TRIGGER SPRING RETAINING PIN

(http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/AdvancedSearch.aspx?c=3523)

Do you know which two I need to order? I'm guessing the TRIGGER PIN and then either the TRIGGER PLATE SCREW front or rear?

 

[cedarsavage]

Getting onto shakey ground as Brownells uses different terms than Browning. But not to worry, I think what they call the screw, rear, - is actually the pin.
Anyhow just get one of each - except for the trigger plate for crossbolt safety! Egads and gadzooks! Those things cost some serious money and its not for your gun.
The two screws and two pins won't set you back more than 20 bucks and change. (plus shipping/handling) (30 bucks, tops)?
Make sure you get the right order numbers, some of the parts are gauge-specific (12magnum,12/16/20....).
Brownells are good people and if I were you I would give them a call and let them get it right for you. Have the gun's markings and serial number ready and just tell them what you have told us. Clear sailing!

good luck, cs