Anyone using this Vortex scope?

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I have that one in MRAD haven’t had a lot of time behind it yet. The first time I took it out I made sure the receipt was placed inside the box. Played with it a little more today and I think what I was disliking was the mirage from the 26” barrel or suppressor at high magnification.

It was a favorite with the couple I had shooting with me today but I’ll need some more time behind it before I decide if it’s a keeper.

It’s $100 cheaper here. https://www.cabelas.com/product/VORTEX-OPTICS-DIAMONDBACK-TACTICAL/2941601.uts

It’s cheap for the features for sure, I might throw it on another rifle, I have had more time with “good” optics on vs comparing new optic & new rifle with other stuff I have and both being on the “budget” end of the price spectrum.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/VORTEX-OPTICS-DIAMONDBACK-TACTICAL/2941601.uts
 

I just purchased this scope the other day. LGS installed it for me yesterday. Will try to get it out for at least some indoor shooting this week. I bought it because of the reticle suits my oldish eyes, the glass suits my needs and Vortex is kinda local to me. The magnification is a plus. I probably looked through fifty scopes in the last month or so..... it's easier to buy the firearm.....
 
I bought it because of the reticle suits my oldish eyes

I suppose that is a potential negative, at low magnification, a FFP reticle gets real thin and tiny, the broader the range the worse it gets. Something to keep in mind if you intend to use in low light at low magnification.
 
I suppose that is a potential negative, at low magnification, a FFP reticle gets real thin and tiny, the broader the range the worse it gets. Something to keep in mind if you intend to use in low light at low magnification.

Yeah, the first time I looked through it, I could hardly see the reticle and I thought "this crap ain't gonna work". Then I zoomed in a little and saw what was happening. This is the first FFP I have ever looked through. My eyes need to start about 10-12 power and go up with this reticle. But, that may be ok, since the gun it is on is planned to be used at only 2-300 yards or more.

Been looking for something that I can shoot long distance only with a few friends. I may have found the gun. If so, it is already attached to this scope.....;)
 
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The reticle is good for quick and accurate “Kentucky windage” shots as your hold over and windage can quickly and accurately be seen and accounted for.

My smallest groups have been shot with very high magnification fixed power scopes though but they are less than useful for other stuff.
 
My brother has one that he mounted on his 22lr CZ he wanted to shoot long distance at 200. Much against my wishes he bought and does not like it for two reasons. The 65 moa does not give him the desired internal elevation to shoot at 200 and beyond without having to use the reticles as bdc reticles. Secondly he thought it would be fine to have reticles in the ffp but realizes that he doesn't like it. The glass is nice for a close to $500 scope and won't be disappointed. Depending on your shooting and how far you want to go I would recommend the 4-14X44 tactical instead that will give you enough internal elevation adjustment at 85 moa allowing you to have a nice cheekweld as you don't need 20 moa rails. I have the Bushnell forge 3-18X50 on mine and it has 84 MOA of elevation and a zero stop and love mine. This are normally $800 to $1000 dollar scopes but I bought mine at 50% off from Midway. The only negative I have on this scope is that it has a wire reticle but it is not a problem for me since I have it mounted on a ruger 10/22. I also have a Bushnell banner on my hunting rifle that is a 30-06 and the wire reticles have never come lose in more than 5 decades.
 
My brother has one that he mounted on his 22lr CZ he wanted to shoot long distance at 200. Much against my wishes he bought and does not like it for two reasons. The 65 moa does not give him the desired internal elevation to shoot at 200 and beyond without having to use the reticles as bdc reticles.

A .22 LR depending on you initial zero should only be 4 ft of drop at 200 yards, most any scope should work for that. At 300 that changes closer to 156” of drop and beyond the limits of most scopes to adjust to compensate for but then that and the speed to change is BDC reticles purpose in the first place or you would just get a regular reticle.

I played around last year with an optic/mount I have had for a couple decades and never really liked, it’s called a leather wood “camputer”. Basically a pretty sorry excuse for a scope on a mount that is not completely unlike a sine plate in function. An eccentric on the scope changes the angle between the scope and mounting rail. There is enough movement in that system to compensate out to 300 yards with a .22 and maintain a “zero” hold. I am kicking around ideas on a micrometer style adjustment for it now, once I pick one and make it, I’ll mount some decent glass on it.
 
Used this scope today at a reasonably well lit indoor range. It's mounted on a CZ 452 Varmint. Easy to zero. Reticle met my expectations. Side focus is excellent. Won't get it outside at longer distances till it's a little warmer here but so far so good.
 
Did you adjust the eyepiece for your eye? If you didn't, and you use the side parallax adjustment to focus the scope, you'll have parallax.
 
A .22 LR depending on you initial zero should only be 4 ft of drop at 200 yards, most any scope should work for that. At 300 that changes closer to 156” of drop and beyond the limits of most scopes to adjust to compensate for but then that and the speed to change is BDC reticles purpose in the first place or you would just get a regular reticle.

I played around last year with an optic/mount I have had for a couple decades and never really liked, it’s called a leather wood “camputer”. Basically a pretty sorry excuse for a scope on a mount that is not completely unlike a sine plate in function. An eccentric on the scope changes the angle between the scope and mounting rail. There is enough movement in that system to compensate out to 300 yards with a .22 and maintain a “zero” hold. I am kicking around ideas on a micrometer style adjustment for it now, once I pick one and make it, I’ll mount some decent glass on it.
In my experience with my 22lr rifles has shown me that with a 50 meter zero which our range has and going to 100 yards I normally need to go up between 10 to 12 moa and from 100 to 200 yards go up to about 38 to 42 moa depending on the rifle and type of bullets used. With his set up he was still about a foot low at 200 yards with max adjustment. He was shooting standard velocity cci's. In all honesty when it comes to this particular brother of mine he can be a goober. I advised him to get Aguilas super maximums or a higher velocity round that cci offers as long as they are not stingers for they might not fit in his chamber. I also asked him to check his rings and possibly reverse them.
 
Yes, I have one of these mounted on a Ruger American Predator in .223 and it is my main p-dog gun. If you sit back a couple hundred yards and run a suppressor, it can take the varmints a while to figure out what is happening...

So yes, I like the scope. I also have a couple of Vortex Vipers to compare it to. I don't know if the glass is as good as the Vipers, but it is pretty close. My main complaint is that the detents on the windage and elevation knobs aren't as definite as on the Vipers - they are a bit mushy. They aren't bad, just not as positive as the Vipers. Adjusting the distance focus (not the reticle focus) is also touchier than the Vipers and did take some getting used to. I usually don't run it higher than 18x for p-dog hunting (for better field of view) and that helps somewhat.

But the one I have mounted now is the second one I've owned. The first one was a dud out of the box. I had already been using the above mentioned rifle with good hand loads under another scope, so the rifle/ammo combo was known good. So when I couldn't get the new scope sighted in, I knew it was the scope. It didn't track correctly at all. It would move in random increments when dialed, or sometimes wouldn't move POI at all when dialed several MOA.

I had purchased it from Cabelas, so I took it back there to swap it out for another. This was fun... I explained the problem to the guy behind the counter. He did ask me if I had run the box test and I told him no, because I couldn't even get an accurate zero. So he proceeded to tell me there was nothing wrong with the scope and the problem was simply that I didn't know how to "use the knobs". He then spent the next couple of minutes explaining to me just how experienced HE was. At the end of his diatribe, he told me to take the scope home and try it again. When I refused to do that, he got pretty huffy but eventually did agree to swap it for another. And the second one, as mentioned above, works just great.
 
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