AR build questions.

Status
Not open for further replies.

Axis II

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2015
Messages
7,181
Hi guys i got another question-I know what else is new. :)

So I'm growing bored with the bolt guns and interested in an AR but have a few questions

I would like an upper with a standard barrel for just messing around and a heavy barrel/varmint upper for woodchucks and serious paper punching. I cant seem to find anything HB in 20-24'' barrel upper that doesn't cost over $600. :( Any suggestions?

Another question i have is hand guards and stocks for shooting off a bench, prone, etc. I cant seem to shoot those collapsible stocks very accurately and most the hand guards i see look large and bulky.

Lastly is it cheaper to buy a lower, parts kit, barrel, upper, etc and piece it together or buy a completed lower and upper? I really haven't a clue about this stuff but end result would need to be a heavy barrel, solid stock for bench and prone, would like 24'' barrel, decent trigger and keep me under $800. I was figuring the cheapest route would be something in the M&P or Ruger line and just throw a HB upper on it?
 
Build one, its easy and cheap. Get a lower locally or at a gun show to save on transfer fee's. All you need to build one is a set of punches and a vice.

http://www.monmouthreloading.com/shop/ar15-upper-receiver-bcg-combo/

cheap fixed stock and handguard option. I have both and they are nice parts

https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/AR-15-Standard-A2-Buttstock-Assembly-Kit-Black-p/utg-rb-t469b.htm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223-15-Ext...719798?hash=item3f89602776:g:P9MAAOSwYZZZ4nmG
Any barrel recommendations? I take it i would need headspace gauges like i would for my savage bolt gun?
 
Any barrel recommendations? I take it i would need headspace gauges like i would for my savage bolt gun?

How much do you want to spend? Price can be anywhere from $100 to $300.

Some may argue this point but I don't own a headspace gauge for anything. I headspace my savage barrels by turning the barrel in on a sized case until there is a bit of resistance to close the bolt. I check my AR's by putting .005" of tape on the base of a sized case and trying to turn the bolt into battery with my fingers. Not recommending you do this, thats just what I do. I'm not an AR expert, I've built 1 lower, 2 uppers and I've installed 7 barrels, most of them twice while swapping parts around for fun. I take mine apart alot to try new stuff.
 
Oh and I will say about barrels you might want to go try finding a 20 or 24" bull barrel AR at a store to try. I originally built a 20" bull barrel upper as a varmint gun and it was a ridiculous ungainly thing in my opinion. Like 11 pounds. I rebarreled it with a 16 socom profile, and then a 20" fluted ballistic advantage barrel which was a winner for me. Good compromise of length and light weight for a gun I intend to carry coyote hunting.

This is the barrel I have. With promo code "ball" it would be $255 shipped.

https://graniteridgeoutfitters.com/...e-DMR-Fluted-SS-Rifle-Barrel-BABL223022PL.htm

I also had good accuracy with my 16" bear creek barrel which are much more economical. Those are the only two I can really recommend as having good results from. Others will have better first hand experience on barrel brands.
 
I remember seeing these bull barrels and being blown away at how cheap they were.

$255 for a 24" bull barrel upper. Needs a bolt.

https://rguns.net/shop/r-guns-speci...3-upper-free-float-hand-guard-1913-gas-block/

Go to PSA on a sale, and you can probably get a good bolt and charging handle for it for $100. Or Rguns will sell you a bolt and CH for about $120.

Built A2 fixed stock lowers are a little harder to find than built carbine lowers, but they're out there. If you want to build one, they're not that hard either. You just need a punch set and an Allen key for the pistol grip. Call it $200 on the high side for a lower - though if you hit the right sales, I bet you can get it done for $150.

I've never bought an aftermarket trigger, but you can get some really nice drop-in AR triggers for about $150 from what I've seen. Maybe someone can chime in with more info.

So to add it all up:

-Bull barrel upper: $250
-Fixed stock lower: $200
-Bolt and cocking handle: $100
-Really nice trigger: $150
-Magazine: $10

$710 total, without a scope.
 
Last edited:
Buying complete is always cheaper, unless you count what you spend replacing the parts you don't like.
I always recommend buying the custom lower parts kit at Red Barn Armory.
The ALG ACT trigger is pretty good trigger at $80, I use a few Timmenys at $160 ea, but there are others as good and better
Faxon has 20 inch heavy barrel around $200.
I have built several with Faxon. Will they put 5 in one hole? Nope, but 5 in 1 inch all day long.
I have built north on of 20 ARs and never checked head space, but that is me and a choice you have to make for yourself.
I use mostly Hogue pistol grips and buttstocks. Their buttstock is tighter on the buffer tube than any other I used.
 
“Bull barrels” in cheap uppers are still cheap barrels. Being fat doesn’t magically convert them to a match quality barrel.

Personally, I hate bull barrels in AR’s. I want National Match profiles in all of my rifles - they’re just too damned heavy with .836 or .920” gas blocks, unless SEVERELY fluted. I don’t care for 24” barrels either, unless the ONLY task is long range shooting, in which case a 1:6.5” 29” barrel is my go-to. I like my rifles to remain handy for field use, and 20” National Match profiles will reach 1,000yrds with the right bullets, and kill prairie dogs last 700. I have one 24” rifle left, might be gone before the end of April, unless the market does go nuts. I don’t even care for .920” gas block bull barreled rifles in 18”. Too much weight for too little velocity.

It has very, very rarely been my experience, in over 200 AR’s built, that a guy can buy a complete upper with the same quality of barrel as one I build, for less money. If a guy is happy with a bargain barrel, sure, but you’re not typically comparing apples to apples with a cheap barreled upper against a custom barreled build.
 
VT hit the nail on the head. It makes no sense to buy a cheap bull barrel because it won't be any more precise than a skinny cheap barrel. It'll just be heavier. An HBar profile (I think this is what VT calls a national match profile) is much handier.

If you're serious about precision with an AR, get a quality barrel with a matched bolt.
 
https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/shop/complete-uppers.html

And you won't have to second guess yourself on equipment. You'll know if it shoots badly it's you or the load, not the unit.
/Sarc on/

But you will miss out on the wonderful educational experience of troubleshooting various cheaply made parts from dubious sources that demonstrate tolerance stacking out the wazoo and serious accuracy issues!!! /Sarc off/

In all seriousness, above wise posters above like VT and Walkalong are steering you the right way if you want to build. Another way is to buy a midquality complete rifle to educate your self with or even just buy an upper with what you want and do the relatively non-complex job of building the lower that you want. Upper builds aren't that much harder but they do go easier with AR specific tools that can add additional cost to a build. If you want to avoid headspace worries, quality sellers will pair barrel and bolt to have proper headspace without having to buy separate headspace gages.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top