AR Builds -- What Parts Did You Choose and Why??

Stephen1956: You NEED to review the laws VERY carefully and consider editing your above post to reflect your new found knowledge. What you suggest above is a crime. The only way the 80% lower thing works is if YOU buy it, YOU complete the work, and YOU DON'T sell or give it to anyone else (unless you have the proper license to do so and put a proper serial number on the lower, do the paperwork etc.).
 
Stephen1956: You NEED to review the laws VERY carefully and consider editing your above post to reflect your new found knowledge. What you suggest above is a crime. The only way the 80% lower thing works is if YOU buy it, YOU complete the work, and YOU DON'T sell or give it to anyone else (unless you have the proper license to do so and put a proper serial number on the lower, do the paperwork etc.).


Not to mention you can probably get a ready made, anodized, good quality lower for about or less than the price you would pay for the $50+ labor
 
The Del-ton Dissipater was a big mistake. I thought it would be a good kit to upgrade as I go. I could not sight it in as the groups were very erratic, the bolt gets stuck in the BCG. And it won't function with cheap ammo. I called Midway, I could exchange it if I take it all part and return it. I called Del-ton. They said send the upper back at my expense and they will look at it. A new rifle barrel would be $194 and out of stock for several weeks. I want to upgrade to a 20 inch barrel. Any ideas?
 
First sugestion would be starting your own thread to ask specific questions and so as not to sidetrack / hijack this thread. Next sugestion would be to include details like round count, ammo tried, is everything torqued to spec or was this assembled 'good enough' etc etc. Best of luck.
 
Sorry, my intent was to say I intended to shortcut the build process by useing a cheap kit then switching parts as needed. I found out for my purpose of a reliable reasonably accurate gun I made a wrong choice. Delton told me that most dissapators only work with premium ammo although some happen to cycle cheap stuff. Only trying to warn of my error and get suggestions on a barrel up grade but I talked to Midway and I will exchange it for something else. I bought another partial lower parts kit so I don't have to dismantle my lower to return all the pieces. I was told by a gun store guy that builds ARs that most of the basic parts are made by the same company and with a few variations most parts are the same. The differences are mainly each companies quality control and finishing. I cannot verify that is true of all or some companies. So if that is a high jack I apologize , just trying to add to the conversation.
 
No problem. It's definitely good info to have. I didn't know how detailed of responses you were looking for. Sorry the delton didn't meet your needs. If it fits what your purpose is for the rifle check out the Daniel Defense "S2W" (Strength to Weight) profile, 18" 1:7twist mid length gas cold hammer forged nitrided barrel on midway for $289

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/49...mer-forged-nitride-finished-chrome-moly-black

Lots of REALLY good reviews. Hope this helps, and thanks for the heads up. Good luck.
 
I bought a PSA stripped lower and a PSA pistol lower parts kit. Why because I had heard good things about them for the price and they were on sale. (I'm a sucker for sales. :eek:)

I'm new to ARs so I'm doing a basic build then run it for awhile and see what I like or don't like and change out parts that don't work for me.

The reason I went with a pistol is that I'm thinking maybe SBR down the road and this way I'll be able to see if I like the shorter barrel. (I know it's not the same shooting as a SBR.) If I don't like it I can change it to a carbine.

Thanks for reading my ramblings.
 
Here's my new home defense/run 'n gun rifle.

It's a bit of a franken build... I mostly used parts that I accumulated by buying when they were on sale, or stuff I had laying around in the parts bin. The Anderson lower I got for $55 OTD; the PTAC LPK was $30; the PTAC MP marked BCG was $75; the MI-SS G2 free float handguard was $120. The buffer tube assembly is all PSA with an ACS-L stock -- I got it off another rifle that I converted to a fixed stock. The barreled upper is about the only thing I paid full price for, and only because I just had to have a pencil barrel middy with fixed FSB... I ordered it from BCM. Of course days after I bought the upper, BCM started running the sale where they throw in a BCG and compensator with any upper purchase. The Aimpoint Comp M I have on it I scored at a gun show a couple years ago for $80.

It handles great with the pencil barrel. It shoots well enough... I put in some roughly 2 MOA groups with M193 ball from prone with the sling. The only thing on it that is possibly sub-mil spec quality is the buffer tube, which might be 6061 instead of 7075. Other than that it is a solid build, and should fit it's intended roles well. It will mostly sit loaded and ready to go in my bedroom closet in a HD role, but I also plan to use it in some of the cross-country run 'n gun competitions I do.

image_zps70a6768b.jpg
 
I wanted an AR, but I'm not too enamored of .223/5.56, so I decided on 300 Blackout for several reasons:
1-everything on the rifle is the same as a .223 except for the barrel, so a generic build is easy using milspec parts
2- the 300BLK is a versatile round with great ballistic performance with a very wide variety of bullet weights, and lends itself exceptionally well to suppressed, subsonic loads.
3- I primarily reload .30 caliber, so it simplified what I need to keep on hand.

I chose parts based on 1- Milspec, for compatibility between brands and makers, 2- quality, I wanted upper-shelf parts and was willing to pay the extra for them, 3- availability, but without having to compromise on the quality significantly. I decided on a carbine length, to avoid the $200 fee for SBR, but still have the option later of paying the fee for a suppressor, even though the resulting rifle would not be quite as compact as a suppressed SBR. The carbine also made sense as 85% of my use would be supersonic.

My parts list is as follows:

Mega A3 upper and lower receiver,
CMMG parts except for trigger group
Geissele DMR trigger group
AIM NiB BCG and bolt
Spike's Tactical VLTOR charging handle
Rainier Match 16" barrel, 1 in 8 twist
AAC flash suppressor, for compatibility with future AAC suppressor
Wilson Combat adjustable gas block and gas tube
Geissele Super Modular 13" rail MkII Mod 1 and barrel nut
Magpul ACS buttstock and buffer tube
Magpul BAD lever (battery assist device)
Hogue pistol grip
Redfield Counterstrike red/green dot with laser sight.
I've since added a 200 lumen light.


It shoots pretty well, first is sandbagged at 100 yards and taking my time, second is standing freehand, rapid fire (30 rounds in 2 minutes) at 100 yards
 
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Just a suggestion, but I would replace the adjustment "set screw" in the adjustable gas block with a socket head cap screw so I could use a paintmark to make sure it isn't walking in or out.

A guy came in the store/range one day asking about his AR not cycling, once he showed it to us I could see where the gas was shooting out of the fore end, due to the missing set screw. It wasn't a Wilson, not sure of the brand though. I'm a little leery of things like that since the only threaded thing that hasn't came loose on me is a pistol grip screw (obviously, the bbl nut was on a PCC).
 
Update, I exchanged the Dissapator for a 20 inch Rifle kit. Everything's looks good on it and the bolt was stiff but not as bad as the Dissapator. At the range it was easy to sight in. With factory ammo I shot a one inch group with 2 shots making one hole at one hundred yards.
I also shot some Tula Steel case in it and it functioned just fine. Like the other Del-Ton kit, everything was very tight. With use, lube and cleaning it should get better.
I plan on a trigger upgrade.
 
I wanted to swim in the AR pool, but didn't want to break the bank doing it, so I went with a fairly simple budget build with a few tweaks:

- American Tactical M4-profile carbine kit
- Spike's 'Calico Jack' lower
- Magpul MOE handguard w/11-slot rail section (Stealth Grey)
- Magpul ACS-L stock (Stealth Grey)
- Stark SE-1 pistol grip
- Strike Industries Cobra foregrip
- Primary Arms 4x prism scope

SO3FyU8.jpg

Going to run it like this for a while and decide what to change later on. :)
 
I'll Play

I know I'm a little late to the game, but I enjoy sharing. I started out without any specific goal in mind, and my build shows it.

Anderson stripped lower - $50 on sale (This started my road to a build)
Spike's Tactical LPK w/o trigger - $45 (love the grip that came with)
DPMS Rifle length receiver extension, buffer, and spring - $39
Alg Defense QMS trigger - $45 (figured i'd skip the hassle of crappy mil-spec w/o breaking the bank)
SAA 16" Mid-Length upper (complete w/ BCG, CH, and MOE Forend) - $480 (Fit my budget and had 1:7 twist)
No name A1 stock off numrich - $15 (worked on the gun and been very happy with.)
MBUS Rear Flip - $50
UTG front Flip - $17
Magpul AFG - freebie from buddy
SPec-ops Patrol Sling - $30

So far I have been pleased with the results for my style of shooting, although I will definitely go for a 1:8 twist next time for the better range of agreeable ammo. Probably not gonna upgrade to an RDS or scope until my next build, just for affordability's sake. Oddly enough, though I shoot lefty, i haven't installed an ambi safety as I find it easier to train to use a standard safety. the mag release on the other hand will get swapped for an ambi as funds allow.
 
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Psa, price.
I ended up with a 550 dollar Ar thats a tac driver.
Very impressed with the accuracy of this AR with a 40 dollat red dot scope
 
Windham weaponry upper-because they are made locally
Bushmater lower parts kit-they were onsale for 40 dollers
Spikes tactical lower-wanted a zombie theme
Windham weapnry a2 stock-because they are made locally
Brownells dust cover-had zombie hunter on it
 

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Bought my first AR complete, a 16" Huldra midlength piston, and ran that for awhile to get an idea of what I would want later.
I upgraded the trigger (ALG ACT) and stock (Magpul FCS).

Then I assembled my second AR:

16" BCM CHF LW midlength upper - light but strong
Mega lower - excellent finish
Colt LPK - no reason really
ACT trigger - nice clean milspec trigger
BAD CASS selector - dovetailed to prevent levers failing
DD fixed rear sight - light, simple, and holds zero very well
Magpul fixed carbine stock - I don't like collapsible stocks
 
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I have 2 that i really like, one is setup to be fairly light weight, and one is a bit heavier.
With the lw i have a 16 inch ultra light FN barrel with a pws comp, a fortis rev rifle length rail, nib x bcg, one of the alg nib triggers, and a magpul grip with a ctr stockk, and a holosun micro red dot. The entire gun weighs just under 7lbs. With the heavier one i have a yhm fluted 14.5 inch barrel with a pinned brake, yhm gas block w/ front sight, a vltor vis 1 carbine rail, seekins billet lower, geissele super dynamic enhanced trigger, spikes nibx bcg, BAD ambi safety, magpul grip and vltor imod stock, and it has a burris 1-4x sight in a pepr mount, but going to get a larue lt104 mount when i free up some cash.
 
Wilson Combat matched upper/lower stripped $150 50% off
ARP 16" 4150 CMV 6.8 barrel w/ mid tube $185
Wilson Combat bolt NP3 plated $250
Daniel Defense 12" Modular Float rail $250
Timney AR Competitiom 3.5# trigger $225
Daniel Defense furniture $125
Ergo Tac Grip $45
Trijicon TR24 1-4X $750
Leupold Rings $60

First Build
Will be used for hunting/target shooting.
Enjoyed the experience and the flying springs and parts...
 
Man, you guys are making me want to go out and build one now . . . I'm impressed with all of the recommendations and pictures.
 
Hey everyone,

I figured I would jump on this build thread rather than start a brand new one. Brownell's currently has these Bushmaster lowers for $50

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...-lower-receiver-sku100003638-70749-52257.aspx

What do you think? I don't know much about ar15 builds. I have an M&P 15 currently and so far have put away 2 Spikes tactical stripped lowers for the future, to build or sell. I am thinking of picking up a couple of these Bushmaster lowers to store away for the future as well.

They are mil spec right? Anything I should know that I would not know as an ar15 newb?

Thank you.
 
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