AR lube?

[Roadwild17]

I have a brand spanking new AR, never lubed, shot, or anything. A friend said I could consider using dry lube as it would help the gun not get gummed up like a wet lube does . He also told me that an AR has to be keep well lubed to keep the gun function right.

So what is this dry lube all about, is it better than say a a coat of CLP, and where can I get it?

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Read this article by Pat Rogers (PDF format):

http://www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf

 

[W.E.G.]

Dry lube will not keep carbon deposits soft. I avoid it for this reason.

I don't inhabit an area where the rifle will be exposed to fine-as-talcum-powder sand.

CLP is my preferred lube for most surfaces on the AR15/M16 class.
I will admit to using a light film of TETRA grease on the buffer spring though.

 

[RockyMtnTactical]

CLP has always worked well for my AR15's. Whether they have not been cleaned for 1-2K rounds or just in dusty conditions, they work great as long as they are lubed properly.

 

[rcmodel]

Dry lube is not really lube at all!

The only time I would even consider it is if I were hunting in below zero weather.

I also use it inside magazines, but they really have no high-speed moving parts that require film-strength.

The major wear point on an AR is the bolt hole for the cam pin, bolt cam pin & bolt carrier cam slot.
Keep them wet with CLP or other high quality oil.

rcmodel

 

[briansmithwins]

I use LSA on my ARs as it stays wet longer than CLP. I've seen filthy ARs that were wet with lube still chug along, while the dry ones stop working.

The Soviet AK manual I have recommends running AKs wet in dusty and sandy conditions.

http://www.box.net/shared/cu2djae1zb page 75 of the .pdf

BSW

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

Contrary to the popular wisdom, U.S. military tests have also reached the conclusion that wet ARs run better than dry ARs in sandy conditions. I started as a supporter of the "too much lube is bad" crowd and I was pretty much wrong on that. ARs like to be run wet and run pretty well as long as they are kept wet, regardless of what the lube is. The only real difference I can tell between lubes is how fast it burns off/dries up.

I have been using Slip 2000 Gun Lubricant and have been very happy with it.

 

[Wolfgang2000]

Try Mobil 1.

 

[mrwood]

+1 Slip 2000 Gun Lubricant
Came highly recommended, I tried it, works for me.

 

[Walkalong]

Another Slip 2000 user. I use other things for pistols, but for auto rifle mechanisms that like a lot of lube, the Slip 2000 really works well. You can just squirt it in there if you are too lazy to take it apart and it will get where it needs to go.

I gave an AR and a bottle of Slip 2000 to my nephew when he got out of the Marines. He was really impressed with it as well. (He just got back from Iraq, he is still in the reserves)

 

[Z-Michigan]

I have been using FP-10, as I do in all my guns. It works fine, but I do notice the action is quite dry after a month or two in the safe, sitting on the buttstock. Not good.

Just tonight I cleaned two, lubed one with FP-10, lubed the other one with FP-10 in most areas but #2 grease (Lucas Red n'Tacky) where the bolt carrier rails slide on the inside of the upper. So far so good, but the real test will be how soot interacts with the grease. Could make for a short test, don't know yet.

I may have to try SLIP 2000, but a lot of what I read praises either the FP-10 I'm currently using, or Mobil 1 oil or any brand of automatic transmission fluid.

The basic design could be SO greatly improved by, well, making it into the AR-18 design!

 

[StreetSweeper]

Another +1 for SLiP 2000.

I tried it after reading Pat's article on it and works good for me. Then again I must add that I am using COLTs, which for me has always worked almost 100% irregardless of the lube used.

That said, I've also used SLiP 2000 on my duty 5906 and Glocks and always gtg. As of now I see no reason in changing.

Not to mention, Pat recommends running ARs wet. I don't know him personally but know guys who do and they all respect and listen to "the man."

 

[possum]

ar's run better wet and dirty, than they do dry and clean. remember that and you will be good to go.

i use grease, hight temp wheel bearing, wilson combat, etc. the syringe applicator makes thingas a 100 times easier. a little goes a long way. you still need more on the ar than you do a handgun but not to much.

 

[Joseph85]

You can use vegetable oil to lube your M16/AR, but it will cook off pretty quick. On the plus side, your M16/AR will smell like french fries

As long as the bolt carrier group is wet, you're good to go.

The various oils available do a better or worse job of staying put over a long period of time. That's really what it boils down too.

Remember, in addition to lubricating, oil also protects against corrosion.

Personally, I use the following:

Boretech Eliminator for cleaning. It doesn't smell. It cuts copper and carbon really well. Not much more needs to be said

Mobil 1 15W50 or 20W50 motor oil for lubrication. The 15W50 and 20W50 oils are thick and stay put really well. These oils stand up to heat really well too. 1 quart lasts a very long time.

Eezox for corrosion resistance. Eezox is dry to the touch, so it protects without attracting dirt and crud. It's an outstanding preservative and is one of the best in salt spray tests. Google Eezox for the various corrosion tests.

Good luck!

 

[possum]

The various oils available do a better or worse job of staying put over a long period of time

oil migrating to everywhere but where you want it to be, and the spray that comes form lots of oil is the exact reason i use gun grease.

 

[Joseph85]

Just as an aside,

I started using Mobil 1 when deployed to the sandbox. CLP wasn't available at the time, but we had plenty of engine oil.

It got the job done and it actually works better than CLP.

The vegetable oil joke isn't as far from the truth as you might think. I heard it from another vet

Use the best stuff you can scrounge up. Just keep the bolt carrier group wet.

 

[Joseph85]

I like thicker oils, but not as thick as grease.

15W50 and 20W50 Mobil 1 works well for me and doesn't get flung all over the place.

I know what you mean though. CLP gets flung all over the place when the bolt operates.

 

[jrfoxx]

Try Mobil 1.

I also use Mobil 1 on my AR (and all my other guns), and couldnt be happier. Works great, inexpensive, sold by the quart, and it stays put and doesnt evaporate like all the thinner oils I had tried.Not 1 single failure of any type, in any gun, since switching to Mobil 1 a year ago.

YMMV based on your gun, how much you shoot, and your shooting environment. I dont shoot in the rain, and rust seems to be a non-issue where I live, as even my completely unoiled tools show no hint of rust aftre 3 years here, whereas in VA, they started to rust after a week or so.A lot of other people do report good results like mine though.

 

[DougW]

possum, what did you use in the sand box?

 

[possum]

grease high temp wheel bearing, bun butter, wilson combat gun grease it all works, this time around i used the high temp lithium wheel bearing grease. that can be found at any auto parts stores. and at a good price and it will last and last.

 

[ftierson]

I use LSA (shake well) on the bolt carrier/upper receiver contact areas...

After all, LSA was created for the dissimilar metal (steel/aluminum) interface...

I use BC Sheath/Barricade and BC Synthetic Gun Oil on other parts as needed...

As others have mentioned, don't let internal parts get dry...

Forrest

 

[trbon8r]

Ditto the recommendation for LSA. It stays put better than CLP and doesn't dry out as fast. LSA is also cheap, which is an added bonus.