Arisaka type 99 parts help

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Sicangu

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Hello all!

I am rather new to this site but I have always found useful information here so I decided to sign up. I recently purchased an arisaka type 99 and I am missing the following parts: safety knob, firing pin, firing pin spring, and dust cover. I have been searching online trying to find firing pins and there are tons of trainer ones out there but I have read those are not to be used in the real rifles. I am trying to find parts so that I can someday be able to shoot this rifle. Does anyone know of any good places to look for or any pitfalls I should avoid? Thank you all for your time.
 
Probably cheaper to buy a complete bolt. Master gun parts or something like that did make replacement firing pins and safety knobs for the t99.

If you know what you are looking at, parts do come up on eBay but can be high. Most parts houses are out now for what you are looking for.
 
Probably cheaper to buy a complete bolt. Master gun parts or something like that did make replacement firing pins and safety knobs for the t99.

If you know what you are looking at, parts do come up on eBay but can be high. Most parts houses are out now for what you are looking for.
Do you know if these parts are attracting the attention of reproduction part manufacturers? it kind of seems that some parts are reproduced like some firing pins, safety knobs, and dust covers. It also appears that this rifle has a small "cult" following for people who enjoy shooting these rifles. Am I correct in these assessments?
 
http://www.leesgunparts.com/

Has millions of parts; might be worth a call? As for the FP spring, Wolff has got you covered:

https://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=2&mID=81

Might as well go with the service Pak IMO, as for a few more quarters you get a sear spring too. I have used many of their springs over many years, and like them very well

Good luck with you search - I LOVE my Kokura series 23 Type 99, with full mum... Shoots lights out, beautifully made, with great mystic and history. One of my favorite military bolt rifles ever.
 
Do you know if these parts are attracting the attention of reproduction part manufacturers? it kind of seems that some parts are reproduced like some firing pins, safety knobs, and dust covers. It also appears that this rifle has a small "cult" following for people who enjoy shooting these rifles. Am I correct in these assessments?

Some of these parts are easier to reproduce and have larger markets than others. Mauser firing pins, because of the huge number of mausers, are one example of new production firing pins. 1903 barrel bands and trigger guards are another area and probably Mauser trigger guards in the new future. Triggers and sears could probably be reproduced but not at the prices that folks would pay as they would be close in price to aftermarket triggers such as Timney etc. but still be inferior to such.

Idiosyncratic parts such as dust covers that are easy to make from sheet steel, slings, bayonets for some reason, cleaning rods, etc. were often discarded or worn beyond repair by original users and represent a significant part of the repro market. Reproduction barrels are another common part.

Stocks are another area where a fair number of reproductions exist for certain rifles but the demand fluctuates based on any new/used influx of original stocks, the availability of modified rifles in the first place, and how easily the original stocks can be restored. Ironically, repro handguards are often scarce and some of these, such as for the different models of Krags which used different sights, run nearly $100 for repro models. Things like original T38 or T44 carbine handguards or even run of the mill T99/T38 handguards are often difficult to find and pricey when you do. These are also parts that often crack, were damaged by sporterizing, etc. which is why the demand exists in the first place.

For liability reasons and costs of production, the least common reproduction parts are receivers and bolts followed by things like barrel bands, odd screws for things like iron sights or barrel bands, barrel band springs, issued iron sights, buttplates,and so on. When you get into things like semi auto receivers of full autos, there are some but these have often gotten bad reps for being out of spec and the cost for bolt action receivers led to investment casting rather than forging like the originals and some of these are even dangerous (see National Ordnance 1903 receivers for example) or wear quickly--see some commercial M1 carbine receivers for example.

Until rather recently, Arisakas were plentiful and mainly treated by many as junk due to blowups--often because of bad rechamberings to things like .30-06 or using things like the cast iron training rifles or worn school rifles. They really did not begin to climb in collectors' esteem until the 2000's for the general run of the mill rifle. Thus, relatively few replacement parts have been made--

Btw, if you do get an aftermarket replacement firing pin, it will have to be fitted to the rifle or otherwise you risk either light strikes or pierced primers if the firing pin protrusion is greater or lesser than the required range or the end of the firing pin is not in the proper ball headed shape. I bought one to fix up an old Arisaka with a worn safety and firing pin (chipped release surface on it). The firing pin tip was square rather than rounded and I had to shape it to a rounded shape. I suspect part of the shortage of Arisaka firing pins and safety knobs is either through Bubba trying to do a trigger job and buggering up the firing pin release surfaces (aka cocking surface on the firing pin) and through natural wear as the safety surfaces inside the knob can wear and allow the rifle to fire if dropped or simply not apply in the first place.

Due to the hollow nature of the Japanese firing pin which is rather unique apart from the MAS 36 type, these are not the simple lathe job of producing like the solid Mauser type firing pin (or most of the other Euro designs like the Enfield, Mannlichers, Mosins, or even earlier French rifles like the Lebel or Berthier ). I also suspect that the vast stores of replacements for these rifles also did not exist for the Japanese Arisakas as few countries used them and Japan probably destroyed and recycled a lot of the spare parts as scrap after WWII. Thus, most Arisaka parts are from disassembled rifles by individuals or from discards from gunsmiths sporterizing rifles.
 
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Holy cow this is a lot of information and I really appreciate everyone's input! I did not know about the reproduction firing pins. This is really good to know that I will have to make sure if I get one it will need to be made specific to the rifle. Here is another question. I just recently bought a complete set (bolt body, firing pin, spring, and safety knob) that is supposedly a type 99. These parts are serialized differently than my rifle though. So with that being said will I have to also make sure the firing pin I just bought will be able to function properly in the rifle since they are serialized differently? I have been looking up trainer rifles vs. service rifles and I am 95% positive my rifle is a service rifle. Some of the things I have read to look for to determine if you have a service rifle is to look for rifling in the barrel. However, even some trainers had rifling apparently. Another feature to look for is a mum. Mine is ground off but I can see the very tip of where the mum was located. I believe the bolt of my rifle also has locking lugs and has the same serial numbers stamped on the rest of the rifle. What other information can I provide the community here to positively identify if this is a service or a trainer rifle?
 
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Correct me if I am wrong but as I was researching this rifle I think it is manufactured in Nagoya. I believe that is the Nagoya stamp.
 
Correct me if I am wrong but as I was researching this rifle I think it is manufactured in Nagoya. I believe that is the Nagoya stamp.
Pretty sure that you are correct. Might find these sites useful for id http://www.castle-thunder.com/model.htm
Here is a detailed sheet for a past T99 owner survey that lays out the different markings. http://www.castle-thunder.com/datasheets/99ds2010e.pdf

Pay attention to each of the cartouches but I think that you have a Nagoya 2nd Series Type 99 (the series marking in kanji (Japanese script) is right before the serial number. You still have the aviation sights and the mount for the rather useless bipod along with other stock id markers indicating a relatively early production rifle. If I recall right, the second series dates of production is 1942 for Nagoyas and you may find so more specific info online. You should have a chromed rifle bore if you clean it as well. Looks to be a nice rifle, albeit not matched. Chrome facings on the bolt and the chrome bore were some of the first things to go as the war turned in the Pacific after 1942 and these rifles became progressively simplified and fit and finish suffered.

Training rifles are marked with Kanji script including the stocks which you should be able to find id tips on castle thunder, gunboards, and milsurps.com forums. The Navy type used a cast iron receiver that is pretty obvious is not yours. School rifles were generally worn service rifles and have the mum defaced with various designs such as interlocking circles stamped over the mum--serial numbers were adjusted and stamped with a 0 (from memory) or 00 (know this one as I have one of these in a T38 carbine) in front of the other original serial numbers. Haven't really researched it but I would imagine T99 school rifles would be a bit scarce as few of these were probably worn out but the T38 had been around since WWI era.

One last thing, your stock was finished with Japanese Lacquer which is with sap from the sumac tree. Some look as though they have been crudely refinished with polyurethane. Whatever you do, DO NOT SAND the stock as it can release sumac particles, which for a lot of folks, is like poison ivy/oak due to urushiol compound in all of these plants (https://infogalactic.com/info/Urushiol ). You really should not refinish or sand military stocks anyway as the cartouches and markings tell a story and it will diminish the value to a collector. In this case, GI's bringing them back suffered mysterious respiratory illnesses when they sanded the stock as the particles caused an immune response to it inside of their lungs similar to that if you burned wood with poison ivy roots, stems, or leaves and inhaled the smoke. Bad stuff there--use a chemical sander, gloves, and respirator if you must mess with refinishing these stocks.
 
Oh, one last thing, if you ever dismount the action for a reason, your front sight will prevent removal of the barrel bands without either removing the ears or bending them (or even worse in removal of the barrel). Just leave them on the barrel when separating the stock from the receiver. Bent ears will be the result at best. Later Arisakas left off the ears on the front sight.
 
NO EXPERT . Looks like this rifle was made inoperable on purpose I have seen a good number of Arisakas that had stripped bolts to make them safe
My Uncle let me have his Type 38 and said it was safe because he kept the bolt . I have No Financial ties to him . Try . old guns .net . John knows what he sells Might help locate the parts
 
I'm a bit late to the party here, so apologies if this bump isn't welcomed, but this reference here: https://oldmilitarymarkings.com/japanese_markings.html really helps for Arisaka rifles. I own a Type 99 Series II Nagoya arsenal with the chrome barrel. Never fired by me due to my family's gunsmith erroneously identifying it as a Last Ditch - I have been keeping it clean though and it's in good shape, just missing the wings on the sight and the dust cover.

Sometimes Numrich has parts: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/arisaka/type-99

I would be careful about getting a complete bolt - make sure the headspace is still in spec. If you can't verify yourself, please seek out an experienced gunsmith.
 
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