ASM 1860 Army Model nipples

[Darwin Teague]

I have an ASM 1860 Army Model made in 1994 and want to buy new nipples for it. I bought some from Cabela's that were supposed to fit "all revolvers except Walker". Well, they didn't fit, the threads are different. Where do I find the proper ones? I have a Dixie Gun Works catalog, but that doesn't really help a lot, not knowing the thread size.

Will they use No. 10 or 11 caps?

Thanks!

 

[expat_alaska]

Try Track Of The Wolf.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/

Jim

 

[LonesomePigeon]

Track of the Wolf or VTIGunparts.

If Track doesn't know they will let you send them one nipple and they will figure out which ones it needs.

VTI if you tell them the maker and what year it was made they will probably know which ones you need.

The ones at Cabela's, I suspect, are Pietta nipples and when they say fits "all revolvers except for Walker's" they mean fits all revolvers they sell.

 

[skeeterfogger]

Yep, Track of Wolf. They have best fit discription for there stuff.
Take one to hardware store and see what nut will fit that way you know the thread size.
Typically #10 primer on revolvers. Have seen exceptions but probably was just what was on hand at factory or over tolerance made batch.

 

[randys]

I have 1984 and 1987 ASM 1860s for CAS main match guns.
TOW: #PTC-PS or PTC-PI
Treso: 11-50--30 or 11-50-306 (set of 6)

Either type has dimensions very close to original mfg, which allow for hammer "not quite touching nipple" set up. Keep in mind that SlixShot nipples are designed for heavy, direct contact with hammer, and IIRC, the Uberti versions are not a good fit even though correct thread diam and pitch.

I'm still using OEM nipples on one 1860 as test control, with no problems. I have not yet tried TOW nipples, and probably won't try Slix. Rem #10 caps in all cases.

12-28 or 5.5mmX.9, are thread dimensions, but you need .481" OAL, .290" cone length, ~.295" base diam.

 

[Rex in OTZ]

I have a 1989 ASM 1860.
I still use the original nipples.
Not the best but servicable.
I had a scare when I decided the nipples need removing for cleaning.
That can be problematic.
Repeated removal and reinstallation will eventually lead to your risk of pull threads out the nipple or hogging out the cylinder thread demensions.
Or round off the lugs on the perfictly servicable nipples.
I bought a $7 nipple wrench and decided to pull nipples.
All I did was break my wrench.
Same thing with the second slightly more expensive wrench ($14)
Then bought a Ted Cash nipple wrench and had troubles with its fitment.
So brought the cylinder and wrench out to the shop.
Had to do some cutting and grinding the Ted Cash nipple wrench to fit nice and tite on the nipple, that ment shortening the legs so the wrench bottoms out on the shoulders of the nipple lugs.
Had to grind down the outside of the wrench to fit down inside the nipple recesses (was the main problem all along)
With a perfict fitting wrench only three nipples came loose with hardly any problems, the 4th was tougher but came loose (like opening a stubborn pickle jar)
The last two were in Tighter than Dicks Hat Band.
I stripped my economy Ted Cash Nipple Wrench and scuffed off some the nipple finish (my moment of shame)
So recut the slot on my freshly busted Ted Cash wrench, regrinding the outter of the wrench to fit down in on the nipple in the cylinder cutout.
This time I chucked the nipple wrench in the drill press (un-plugged from wall outlet) at work and used downward pressure under my right armpit on the handle while using left hand to hold the cylinder on the drill plate and the right hand to turn the massive drill press chuck, I was able to get the stubborn nipples to eventyally back out.
I found one cylinder chamber had a particular thread booger so it only takes the nipple that came out of it.
None the other nipples would thread in without forcing so didnt.
Since the nipples seat flat face again the cylinder boss seat (machined flat)
The nipples can only be tightened so much so snug seemes to be best.
If you antiseize your threads remember that lube torque is considerbly less than dry torque.
With anti seize and using dry torqe value you can crank the threads right out of your nipple.
I chose to go back with a dry nipple instead of anti-seizeing the threads.
I did this because the threads didnt have anti seize when I took it appart so figure might as well reassemble the same way (lightly oiled)
Then heated the cylinder in Oven to 150°F after heated I used 3-in-One Oil on all surfaces inside and out.

I had only once completely removed the nipples from my 1989 era 1860 cylinder that was in 2017, I think as long as the nipple works, There is no reason to remove it for cleaning.
Other than cleaning the cylinder as a unit after shooting.

Is that faulty reasoning?
The only reason I broke 3 nipple wrenches was to remove nipples for cleaning cylinder threads that wernt rusted as feared.

 

[arcticap]

I had a scare when I decided the nipples need removing for cleaning.
That can be problematic.
Repeated removal and reinstallation will eventually lead to your risk of pull threads out the nipple or hogging out the cylinder thread demensions.

Is that faulty reasoning?
The only reason I broke 3 nipple wrenches was to remove nipples for cleaning cylinder threads that wernt rusted as feared.

While it has been debated before, I'm a firm believer that it is faulty reasoning.
Perhaps you have a factory thread problem or the quality of the older ASM metallurgy led you to feel that way.
But I use breech plug grease and barely snug the nipples down after each shooting session and cleaning and the threads and nipples do not suffer any wear & tear ASFAIK.
And I have never seen one nipple back out at all either, even though I use the lightest amount of torque possible which is practically nill.
I think that removing nipples for cleaning & lubing each time is preventative, especially if they're babied when installed.
The grease may help to keep fouling out of the threads, whereas torquing them down hard probably won't help solve anything but can create problems with their removal, especially if not done regularly or without using anti-seize.

When buying a new or used gun, if removing the nipples was a problem, then I've put the cylinder in heated to boiling water for a very short time which has worked well so far.
I like the RMC nipple wrenches and haven't ever ruined one of them.

 

[Rex in OTZ]

I figured posting would smoke out information right away and to the point.
I may need to order some breech plug grease.
Thank You for your input.

 

[arcticap]

I apply it with a toothpick and make sure it gets into both sets of threads.
Then after installing wipe away any excess with a swab to not allow it to clog the nipple hole.

Not all breech plug greases are the same as some may have different additives.
Some folks swear by using pure anti-seize which there are also different types.
And that's where the debate sometimes begins about how often a nipple treated with anti-seize needs to be removed for cleaning.

 

[Rex in OTZ]

I have some antiseize.
The general use silver stuff and the copper high temprature stuff.
Some place I have some marine grade as well.
As I dont fire my open top hard and fast I dont think high temprature antiseize is needed.
The silver stuff gets on and in most things it touches.
I might google breech plug greases and check out the reviews on them to see if Im in the ball park.
They as recommended she gets pulled down and cleaned if Im months to years between stokeings, if I knew I was going to shoot 2-3 times that week the nipples would stay in till the last go-around.

 

[LaneP]

Keep the threads greased, don't over torque them and they will come out every time as easy as any other screw. I remove nipples at every cleaning session and have done it that way for decades and have never stripped or rounded off one.

 

[Cowhide Cliff]

Copper based never seize is the best thing for nipples. I use Caterpillar brand since I have huge cans of it at the shop but I'm sure other copper based brands are fine. Withstands heat better than the gray aluminum stuff which almost can do just the opposite.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

I always remove my nipples when i clean my gun. Never have had stuck nipples or threads worn out. The reason why i do it is due to using corrosive caps so i clear out the nipples combustion chamber and flash hole with a pipe cleaner and wire to clear out any gunk. I used to use antiseize but now i just use a thin coat of lanolin. Works great and is thick enough not to be runny like oils so it keeps the threading sealed from any fouling. I know someone who swore by his method of boiling his cylinders with nipples up and with the steam cleaning the nipple vents. He always talked about how spotless and rustfree his guns were and how his method was quite possibly the best way to clean. He was going to sell me some .36 navy cylinders that he always cleaned the same way...before buying i inspected them and asked him to remove the nipples as he was going to keep the nipples. Only one nipple would remove out of the 3 cylinders. After fighting with the nipples for days soaking in acetone and transmision fluid....we finally removed all the nipples from one cylinder...we found that the threads on the cylinder and nipples had rusted shut. He now no longer keeps his nipples on when cleaning and has now adopted a similar method to how i clean and lube mind.