Barrel wont stay clean!

[The Deer Hunter]

So, yea, my barrel just wont stay clean. I clean it very good with TC no. 13 bore cleaner, and conditon the barrel with TC bore butter. Very well.

Even after just one day a dry patch comes out all brown because of rusting

Any tips on keeping it from rusting?

 

[eastwood44mag]

This is how I do it:

Peroxide down the barrel (breaks up powder like nobody's business). Allow to drain. Hit with WD40 to displace the water/peroxide/etc. Allow to dry. Grease heavily with Bore Butter.

Works for me. Your results may vary.

 

[The Deer Hunter]

what kind of gun do u have?

 

[Mark whiz]

unless you're using an old cast iron gun....................get rid of the bore butter, it is no good as a preservative.
The old barrel-"Seasoning" argument just doesn't work with modern metals.
Cleaning the gun, patch it out with some de-natured alcohol, and then apply a good oil as a preservative. Before you shoot the next time, just hit the bore with a couple patches of alcohol and all will be well.

 

[Plink]

As Mark said, you definately need to oil the bore to protect from rust. You might try CorrosionX. It's about the best rust proofer I've ever seen and it displaces water to stop rust in case you missed some during cleaning.

 

[JWINKS]

I've had real good results using neatsfoot oil after cleaning the bore. I use it in all my rifles.

 

[Dithsoer]

Rough bore

I've found that on a lot of bp guns the bores are sometimes rougher that on cartridge-style guns. Sometimes after a good bit of shooting the matter improves, but on a CVA that I had once I went ahead and lapped the bore. This process smooths up the bore, and usally improves fouling problems as well as improving accuracy. There are several lapping kits on the market (check Brownells) wich involve smearing your bullets with a really fine abrasive called rouge and firing them in your gun. This makes the bore really smooth, which cuts down on leading and filth from "clinging" to the bore. I just add a really fine rouge powder to some of my bullet lube then fire 30 shots or so. It's recommended in the kit instructions to clean the bore after every shot so the bullet is in contact as much as possible with the bore, but I just give the bore a few wipes between shots. This process turned a bad-fouling .50 Hawken with mediocre accuracy into a stellar performer with gilt-edged accuracy. It's kind of time consuming but worth it in my opinion.

 

[arcticap]

It's the TC #13

Other people have also complained about flash rusting shortly after using the TC #13 "solvent". It claims to be all natural, and it does remove the easy to remove upper most layer of fouling residue just like almost any liquid will. But beyond that, what it leaves behind can cause problems if you don't hit the residue with something else that's more effective. Find another product and use the tightest patches possible and a nylon or similar bore brush if necessary.
Is Bore Butter perfect? Of course not, but it's pretty effective as long as you remove all the fouling and moisture from your bore prior to application and use enough of it to coat the barrel interior & grooves.
If you are unsure if your bore is adequately clean, go back and check it after a couple days and swab out the old Bore Butter. This will help to lift out some of the minor residue remaining in the barrel's nook & crannies. If you are then satisfied with what appears (or doesn't appear ) on your cleaning patch, re-lube the bore with another saturated patch of Bore Butter, or clean it further using more elbow grease and tight patches.

Here's a couple of popular commercial BP solvents that others have highly recommended as being among the best:

Shooter's Choice Black Powder Gel
Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine, but be careful about getting it on your stock

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

I run an olive oil patch in my B/P gun bores after cleaning ..never a rust problem .

 

[The Deer Hunter]

TC bore cleaner works fine on my dads gun, it never rusts.

I have a kit gun from traditions and i think the metal is bad or something.\

and moving on, When i get an inline if i get a SS barrel does that mean that wont rust?

 

[wanderinwalker]

and moving on, When i get an inline if i get a SS barrel does that mean that wont rust?

Nope. It'll still rust, especially with blackpowder fouling residues. Maybe longer than regular ol' carbon steel, but it'll still rust. (Trust me... )

Funny thing on bore cleaners and cleaning. I use TC #13 on my Prohunter when I shoot REAL blackpowder, and have absolutely ZERO rusting issues. If I use Pyrodex or 777 and clean with only #13, then the barrel will surface rust overnight. Luckily checking it the following day reveals this problem.

IF I use Pyrodex, I clean up with #13 until it comes out clean, then I run a swab of Windex up and down the barrel a couple of times, and then another patch of #13 and a thorough drying. Eliminates any corrosion problems.

Still haven't shot enough 777 to figure out how I'm going to clean it for sure. So far I think TC's new T-17 cleaner is the favorite. Used with Win 777 primers, cleanup is quick and easy for the barrel and breech plug. Most of the residue wipes right off. Takes me longer to dismount the barrel and forend!

I am going to switch to using 2 777 pellets and either a 250 or 300gr saboted bullet in the Prohunter after the season. It'll get sighted in and only shot with whichever one works the best. I'm done with testing for a while now!

Oh, and FWIW, I always run Bore Butter down my rifle after cleaning before storage. I like the way it smells and it works fine. Properly cleaned, I will no longer accept discoloration on a one-week (or longer) patch from a "clean" BP rifle.

 

[spalit]

This is a great cleaning mixture that was recommended to me by some ol'timer BP shooters at the bristol range in WI.

Mix equal parts of peroxide, rubbing alcohol and murphy's soap. All pretty cheap to buy in large bulk bottles from walmart. There's no "added" water in this mix. I do apply a little bore butter, but only after the water has been completely removed. I suspect the rusting is from the bore butter being applied to wet metal.

 

[Plastic Cowboy]

Like Sundance said- Olive Oil is the perfect oil for BP revolvers. It prevents rust and lubricates very well. After I clean all the fouling from my gun I run a patch of olive oil down the barrel and each cyclinder chamber. I also wipe the entire surface of the gun with an olive oil patch including the insides of the wood grips to keep the wood seasoned. If you don't take the gun apart then push a Q-tip soaked in oil down the gaps infront of the hammer and around the trigger to get oil on the internals.

The nice thing is that you really can't over do it. Slather that thing up all sloppy with oil and it wont hurt a thing. Just pop a few caps through the cyclinders to dry them out before you dump the black powder in. I guarantee that as long as the fouling is cleaned first- you will NEVER get rust with a generous coat of olive oil on all metal surfaces.....and you can take that to the bank!!!!

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

P/C my oiling with the olive oil has been a copy of what you do ..been doing it that way for 3 years now .. and never a smidigit of rust inside or out on my remmies . And i use to be a WD40 chearleader ..lol

 

[riddleofsteel]

I've been shooting a T/C Renegade .50 for over 20 years now. I started with patched balls. I made my own patches with a die cutter and soaked them in melted Crisco mixed with bee's wax. Formulation varied according to temperatue we were going to be shooting at. We were burning Goex FFG back then. When we wanted more penetration we shot T/C R.E.A.L. bullets that were simply big conical greased with T/C Natural Lube. Clean up was easy. We used patches and HOT water. When we were finished we greased up the barrel and metal with the same Crisco/bee's wax formula.
Life was good and many a deer fell to this combo with zero rust.

Then it got so you could not get black powder anywhere around here. There was Pyrodex on every shelf and the plastic sabots and pistol bullets. Suddenly my rifle started getting gummed up with black tar looking residue and melted plastic. I rebeled and searched out a source of black powder and started casting conicals and balls again.
In recent years the sabots have gotten way better. They don't melt as bad in the barrel and the shoot true as a result. However Pyrodex and 777 is crap in IMHO. Is is not black powder and is not even a good subsitute. The only way I have found to shoot it is to scrub out the barrel COMPLETELY after use. Forget seasoning the barrel. When I shot BP I would never have let soap or oil in my barrel for any reason. With Pyrodex you had better get it all out or it will ruin your rifle. I have been burning Pyrodex Select for about 5 years now (I gave up the struggle). Now I scrub out my barrel with Windex, dishwashing soap and 91% alcohol. When I can get a clean alcohol patch out of the barrel after a brush pass I put in the Bore Butter.
I have not seen a rusty patch in years unless I wait a couple of minutes between the alcohol step and the Bore Butter step. A clean ML barrel will flash rust in seconds if it is hot.

MY son still shoots my Renegade but I have tired of the struggle in my old age. I bought a Savage ML II for this season. It burns AA 5744 smokeless powder.